My 1:72 M1 Submarine build

[Kazzer]

Slowly, I'm getting there!


Just in front of the conning tower, there's a hatch. It's the red blotchy thing you see here. I needed to make it about 1/32nd" thick so I used a piece of cardboard from a packet. (Hence the color) I soaked it in mixed epoxy, and placed it on the gun fairing. To keep it in place, I CA'd the edges.

The flaps underneath are also cardboard, and soaked in CA.(I have no idea what they are for. The 12" gun is in place, also secured with CA. This gun has an aluminum bore and once hooked up, could be used to fire .177 BBs.


I thought I had a thread on this boat, but I'm damned if I can find it. Help!

[Kazzer]

Today, I drilled some flood holes in the hull, placed more hatch covers on the superstructure, primed, primped and sanded, and finally, applied a coat of primer and a coat of flat top coat. All from rattle-cans! I'll let that sit for a day, then a light sand and a final coat but I'm going to give this boat the ripple camo look! I've figured out how to mask up to get the wavy line along the waterline. I might coat the white with a very light grey. No one seems to know what color this camo was, so poetic license will prevail.




Like a prize fish, the boat is hanging while I spray a coat of paint on.

But wait! What IS that motor on the floor?

It's a bit big for the M1 - see my next post about rafts!

[greenman407]

OH , thats looking good Mike!

[greenman407]

I remember your old thread telling of your shipping it and it arrived damaged. However I cant find it either.

[Kazzer]

It's a bit dusty inside, and really needs a bit more work, but I'll get around to that eventually. My main objective is to get the Sub-driver and controls operating properly.

I've always had problems with the Klik-on magnets dropping off and then not being able to re-connect, and I've made all sorts of dumb things to hold them in their operating position. Here is my latest effort, which seems to have completely solved the problem.

Firstly I drilled a hole in the hull 1/16" d on either side, at roughly the height of the rods in their operating position.
I cut 2 x 3/8" long pieces of brass tube with 1/16" ID, slid them over a piece of rod and them CA'd them into place on the inside of the hull.
I took a piece of 1/16 brass rod and bent it to encircle each push-rod, and placed 1/16" collars on each end. With a little fiddling, the rod is inserted into the tubes and secured in place by the collars. I'll trim off the exposed rod ends, so you'll hardly see them when it's all painted.

[Kazzer]

I decided to run the forward diveplane push-rod along the keel of the boat. It's almost bare, except for three 1" lengths of brass tube which are CA'd to the hull. I hope this will mean I seldom have to mess with it, especially installing and removing the Sub-driver.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Good looking stuff, Mike. Keep at it, buddy.

[Slats]

have to say Mike, I find this subject in the category of "Only it's mother could love it". That said I am impressed by your work and tenacity. Well done.

[trout]

That's a real good solution to the disengaging Klik-ons. Thanks for sharing.