a 2nd thanks mike and dave !!!!!!!!

[satlite440]

yea got my grubby little mits on my subdriver today..almost killed my oldest son.. all week ups said wed delivery so when they said it was delivered on tuesday today i hit the roof.. after a lenghty interogation the oldest tells me oh you mean this.i was suposed to give it to you last week..he got it on tues and didn't menton it...so there was a little panic for a moment.. but when i got it out of the excelent packaging i decided to spare his life or i was distracted i forget.... however dave i have a few qestions.....


#1 the old one said that the subdriver didn't come with an esc so when i placed the Order #100008346. i ordered one planning on needing one.guess i'll have a spare..but thought someone should reveiw with you whats included or not is current on the new site..eather way im not mad.. and btw are you missing a micro viper 10?


The Sub-driver comes completely assembled and tested.
Radio receiver, batteries and ESC need to be installed on the equipment tray.
Overall length - 15.625"
Diameter - 2"
Ballast Tank - 5.375"
Battery Comp. - 3.125"
Aft Dry Space - 5.625"
Gas Tank - 1" x 2"
Motors - 2 x 280 (suppressed)
ESC - No - requires Mtroniks MicroVIPER Marine10
Servos - 3
Gas Saver - No

Batteries - 1300mah 7.2v (not included)

The 2" diameter Sub-driver will slide into the hull with the deck removed. The hull opening will spring apart very slightly


#2 in the pictures on the site add and the paper the subdriver came with it shows the dumas drive dogs on the output shafts.. mine doesn't have any nor were any on the bag in the batt compartment.is this an oversight? i was going to order 4 of the brass ones in my next order anyway... and the lipogard and a few other things..



#4 on the moter bulkhead there is a rod attached to nothing see pic what is this for??????another servo?????

#5 on the speed controller what do you do with the built in switch?does it tie into the single throw double pole switch that goes on the batt bulkhead........

#5 whats this????/ the odd looking block with 3 dimples?????



so i am attempting to do something with with the torp doors.. im on the 3rd fab attempt 1st 2 desighns went to the round file this one shows promise and if it works out like i think it will, i will put the pics in the build thread for input on the other 1/2 of it. since i have a s/d now to have an idea of how much room i have to work with....have anothe timming belt job to do and finish the pergola for the neighbor who just paid for the order of the radio/receiver/esc/angle driver...... but again a big hurra for mike and especialy dave after inspecting the quality of this wonder i am amazed at the sheer fit, form, funtion of the whole thing...as a auto tec with caddilac i stand in awe of your design and fabrication skills and the quality was everthing i hoped for and more.. i'm tempted to insist you put a crest&wreath in your subdrivers.....


respectfuly your shane b

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Shane,

Glad the SD arrived alive. Go easy on the boy. He must live -- might be a future Caswell-Merriman customer there.

Now as to your five questions:

1. Yeah, we're constantly improving/changing the configuration of our products. Not all those changes are reflected in the catalog or packing list. As I identify (with a lot of help from you guys in the field) product shortcomings, and areas of user confusion, I change either the design of the product or add/subtract devices to the package to make it more 'user friendly'. An example of this product evolution is the ESC in our 2" SD's: As it's a tight fit and was giving customers problems to install and set-up, Mike and I elected to include an installed, set-up, and tested ESC with all 2" SD's. (As an example of our on-going work to improve product we are, this month, shifting the ballast operating mode of all 2" and larger SD's from the traditional Gas and/or LPB to semi-aspirated mode).

2. The cast resin Dumas style dog-bones and couplers come with the Type-7 fittings kit, not the SD.

3. That brass rod is there to blank off the hole of an unused 1/16" pushrod seal. I put the extra seal in the motor bulkhead (which is used for both the SEAVIEW and Type-7 SD's and possible future subjects) to permit expansion of the SD's capabilities in future products. Don't sweat it.

4. The ESC power switch: cut that sucker off, twist the wires together and solder them, then slap on a short length of heat-shrink tube -- all on/off chores are performed by the mission switch mounted within the forward removable bulkhead.

5. It's the battery cable strain-relief block. Where the dimples are, open them up with a 1/8" drill bit and mount the block onto the inboard face of the forward removable bulkhead (end-cap). You'll reeve the cable wires through it so you don't put any strain on the wiring where it makes up to the mission switch.

Your comments here are most appreciated. I want to hear from you guys about what's we're doing wrong, what we can do better, and suggestions as to products you see a need for but are not available (yet) from us.

David

[satlite440]

thanks for the explanations&support.. 1 more question though. when i got my VIIc fittings kit it had the couplers for the shaft end so yes it came with 2.should it have come with 4?.. all in all i don't realy care as 4 of the brass 1/8th couplers and dogbones are on the list along with the propellers and other things for the 2nd 1/2 of pergola build payment.. i just read last night gazzette#17 about the sas.. outstanding clears up a lot of questions... as a tec i love a well written discription and operation...the part on brass was outstanding too. one more question what material are you useing for your assembly jig whats it made out of? must get one as it seem to be more in line of what i need versus the wild storks nest i was looking at for sodering.. also just got a new butaine torch to help with that silver soldering. the old plug in 25 watt iorn was a pain... thanks again dave for all your support...

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

thanks for the explanations&support.. 1 more question though. when i got my VIIc fittings kit it had the couplers for the shaft end so yes it came with 2.should it have come with 4?.. all in all i don't realy care as 4 of the brass 1/8th couplers and dogbones are on the list along with the propellers and other things for the 2nd 1/2 of pergola build payment.. i just read last night gazzette#17 about the sas.. outstanding clears up a lot of questions... as a tec i love a well written discription and operation...the part on brass was outstanding too. one more question what material are you useing for your assembly jig whats it made out of? must get one as it seem to be more in line of what i need versus the wild storks nest i was looking at for sodering.. also just got a new butaine torch to help with that silver soldering. the old plug in 25 watt iorn was a pain... thanks again dave for all your support...

Yeah, we supply the two Dumas type couplers that make up to the SD motor shaft, but you have to buy your own Dumas couplers that make up to the propeller shafts -- sounds like you've worked that out, anyway.

Mike Caswell is doing a bang-up job with the Gazette, isn't he? It's a very loose form of journal writing; an off the cuff presentation of the work of various authors who specialize in this game, or related fields. And the Gazette comes out whenever Mike damned well wants to: no issue deadlines or dates, no content restrictions, format, or restrictive page-counts; just publish the rag (a simple press of the 'enter' key) when ready, and the magazine is off to those who count in this hobby of ours.

(You bum's out there who post to this site: know that your pictures and words may become Gazette fodder. So, continue to post your best stuff and keep it coming, I can't keep this ship afloat all by myself. Funny, I helped launch so many other ships: The SubCommittee Report, SubPirates, etc., with little thank-you or acknowledgment Unappreciative, stuck-in-the-mud ****'s! ... but I digress).

The basic soldering jig used to make the brass Type-7 railing is a hunk of Caswell's forty-pound RenShape outfitted with appropriate holding fixtures. The trick with RenShape (or wood, for that matter) is to ink out the outline of the thing you're going to solder up onto the face of the block. Then, with a ball shaped Dremel burr, dig out a concave divot under each point where two or more metal pieces will be joined with solder. This keeps the hot RenShape (or wood) from off-gassing contaminates that would otherwise muck up the soldered joint. The RenShape is soft enough to permit pining, and tough enough to permit retention of threads where you want to use mechanical fasteners. I recommend you use only resistive type soldering or hot irons on work held in a RenShape jig. Not an open flame, for Christ's sake!

Keep on hand the 25W iron, and get a 40W one too. You don't want to use an open flame when using the RenShape as a jig -- you'll make an awful mess and you will die horribly (see the last reel of Fat Man and Little Boy). But, if you have too, dunk all the work in water first, then apply the flux to the point your working, then quickly apply the flame and solder. Not recommended.

We're here to please, Shane.

David