1/12 Seehund build - LWB

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    I should have said, that of course the SD is in scale as well. That's not a 2.5" SD :) My point about the model is that experimenting in this scale is fast and cheap to figure out all the details and problems. Before I commit to 15+ hours of print time for each section I want to make sure that at the end I have pieces that fit together and support the functionality I want.

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    Here is a picture of my 1/24th model of the Seehund: The small tube below is the 2.5" SD. Above is the central and frontal section of the sub. So there is plenty of space for the SD.

    Now I can edit the STL files to the point that they craddle the SD and also allow for an easy opening from above. I love doing this in this small scale, which brings down 3d print times (and materials) four times.
    Attached Files

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    Based on the model I'm building I can already say that I wont have to stretch the original files. There is enough space in the body to put the SD in. Only caveat will be the relative height of the SD so it can stretch all the way through the hull. The model will help me in determining that amongst other things.

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    Yeah, I'm back in business: The new Creality CR-6 SE is printing parts for the 1/24th model of the Seehund. So far a very nice machine with lots of upgrades compared to the Ender 3 Pro I had before.

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    Originally posted by Subculture
    Very little mechanical work in any of that. it's mainly swapping out boards and tweaking the firmware. Most of mechanical bits were printed by the printer itself. This is how it's looked until the last couple of days-



    However I've started experimenting with printing hotter filaments like ABS Petg and ASA, so made some adjustments to the cooling fans and fitted an all metal hot end. This design keeps drafts away from the hot end, and substituting the axial fan for a centrifugal version gives much better flow through the hot end heatsink. It also gives unrestricted access to the bowden tube at the hotend. Still have to make a bracket for the 3d touch sensor and tidy up the wiring.

    WOW. Very impressive.

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Very little mechanical work in any of that. it's mainly swapping out boards and tweaking the firmware. Most of mechanical bits were printed by the printer itself. This is how it's looked until the last couple of days-

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    However I've started experimenting with printing hotter filaments like ABS Petg and ASA, so made some adjustments to the cooling fans and fitted an all metal hot end. This design keeps drafts away from the hot end, and substituting the axial fan for a centrifugal version gives much better flow through the hot end heatsink. It also gives unrestricted access to the bowden tube at the hotend. Still have to make a bracket for the 3d touch sensor and tidy up the wiring.

    Click image for larger version

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    Originally posted by Subculture
    Wow, you're really getting through some machines!

    Creality cheap out a bit on the electronics I think. I was unlucky and my mainboard expired in the first few weeks of ownership, I replaced it with a MKS GEN L and some TMC2208 stepper drivers. I had to learn how to configure the Marlin firmware, but it was worth it as the new board gives a lot more flexibility and and it's been rock solid ever since. I also exchanged the PSU for a secondhand XBOX 360 PSU, replaced all the cooling fans which quickly got loud- oiling the bearings did little to help.

    I added a part cooling fan, a 3d touch sensor and printed a a few mechanical upgrades. So just the frame, steppers, bed, hot end and wiring left from the original.

    I guess some may be thinking why bother, but I learnt very thoroughly how my printer works and can repair any area as required

    You're more mechanically adept than me (Captain Obvious here). I don't tinker much with my 3D printers. Not that I wouldn't want to but if you look up Youtube videos for Ender 3 you get a million and half of them are crap. Nonetheless I did learn a bunch about my printer, but likely not as much as you. Which is also why I stayed with the Creality brand: There is some familiarity and some things I feel comfortable enough now to replace/upgrade. The whole 3D printer arena reminds me of where home computers were in the early eighties. I started out with a Sinclair (only Brits would know this reference) and then it was C-64. Much of what we take for granted today was paperclips and staplers back then (remember how to get a 5.25" diskette out of a floppy player or how to write-protect 5.25" floppies?). I bet in like 5 or 10 years people will look back at these early days of 3d printing and just wonder why people bothered with it.

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Wow, you're really getting through some machines!

    Creality cheap out a bit on the electronics I think. I was unlucky and my mainboard expired in the first few weeks of ownership, I replaced it with a MKS GEN L and some TMC2208 stepper drivers. I had to learn how to configure the Marlin firmware, but it was worth it as the new board gives a lot more flexibility and and it's been rock solid ever since. I also exchanged the PSU for a secondhand XBOX 360 PSU, replaced all the cooling fans which quickly got loud- oiling the bearings did little to help.

    I added a part cooling fan, a 3d touch sensor and printed a a few mechanical upgrades. So just the frame, steppers, bed, hot end and wiring left from the original.

    I guess some may be thinking why bother, but I learnt very thoroughly how my printer works and can repair any area as required

    Leave a comment:


  • tifosi12
    replied
    Oh and thanks Bob for your unbox video of Oto's 1/12 Seehund. I got some good pointers from that, possibly the most important one to add holes to make sure it nicely fills with water.

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  • tifosi12
    replied
    Originally posted by Subculture
    What printer do you have? I have a Creality Ender 2, although not much of the original machine left by the time I was through with replacing many poorly manufactured items, but easy to repair.

    BTW there was a closed cycle Seehund, can't recall if they evr made one, but it was at least on the drawing board. it's longer than the standard models, so that would be a good one to look at if you need to stretch the hull a bit.

    Oto's files are pretty good, but they look like a scaled copy of the bronco 1.35 Seehund, unfortunately with the mistakes too.
    I had an Ender 3 Pro, which I cannibalized with parts from my previous Ender 3 (the 3 Pro didn't run right out of the box, thanks for that...). It was good until recently when more and more issues kept coming up. So now I ordered the Creality CR6-SE. That's basically an Ender 3 Pro on steroids, has the glass bed, dual z-axis, modular printing nozzle, auto calib and no feed detection. All the stuff I was missing on the Ender 3 Pro. I saw that it has apparently issues with its firmware, so I'm crossing my fingers it arrives and prints right out of the box. We'll see.

    As for the stretch limousine part: That's why I want to build a model (1/24th) first to see whether I really have to stretch it. There is a good chance the SD fits in the model as is. I just don't know off hand (hard to estimate without plans (coming in snail mail) and with the end parts where the diameter decreases). Of course it would be preferred if I don't have to stretch the center section. Then again, there were several versions of the Seehund IRL so one fake one wouldn't mess up history. :)

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  • Subculture
    replied
    What printer do you have? I have a Creality Ender 2, although not much of the original machine left by the time I was through with replacing many poorly manufactured items, but easy to repair.

    BTW there was a closed cycle Seehund, can't recall if they evr made one, but it was at least on the drawing board. it's longer than the standard models, so that would be a good one to look at if you need to stretch the hull a bit.

    Oto's files are pretty good, but they look like a scaled copy of the bronco 1.35 Seehund, unfortunately with the mistakes too.

    Leave a comment:


  • tifosi12
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    Don't you love it when that happens!
    I have found the same thing happens when running subs. Something seems to happen that a once perfect running sub will all of a sudden have an issue or something just does not work like it did a run before. I reckon we learn to roll with the punches.
    My motto has become: test, test, test and then test again

    Not expecting any issues, just doing a test for the test's sake and sure enough something new creeps up.

    It's not just what can break, will break. It's more: Things you never imagined to break, will break. Reminds me of a Dave Barry story where he talks about how anything maritime rusts away under his eyes the moment he checks it out at the store.

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by tifosi12
    I guess I just jinxed myself with this thread: This morning my 3D printer croaked. At least that gave me a good excuse to order a newer and better one. But it will also sideline this effort for at least a week.
    tifosi12! Yep they sure do croak!

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    I got my moneys worth on this Dremel 7 years and thousand of hours of printing!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

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  • trout
    replied
    Don't you love it when that happens!
    I have found the same thing happens when running subs. Something seems to happen that a once perfect running sub will all of a sudden have an issue or something just does not work like it did a run before. I reckon we learn to roll with the punches.

    Leave a comment:


  • tifosi12
    replied
    I guess I just jinxed myself with this thread: This morning my 3D printer croaked. At least that gave me a good excuse to order a newer and better one. But it will also sideline this effort for at least a week.

    Leave a comment:

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