How To Install Military Cannon Plug Connectors

[AQUASUB]

First hear is where I get them:http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Military-14-Pi...item43a38fdbc8
They take about 2 weeks to arrive.
This is just one of several configurations available ,2 pins to over 50 pins!
There are other makes but this one is very good and not expensive as most of them are.The green ones pictured.

I have had nothing but good luck with these connectors,I will call them plugs for now.

They have been around for decades and are the proven state of the art when it comes to a water tight electrical connection.Gold plated male and female pins insure that a positive connection is made and maintained no mater how harsh the conditions get.

Rubber insulator insures a seal and absolute non cross over of electrical circuits and is high heat resistant.
A positive locking mechanism ensures that a seal is made with just a twist of the fingers the 2 rubber seals lockout water.

Every plug is unique in that no 2 will be able to connect with another that would be bad!Just like a key and a lock your circuits are protected.

Also by indexing the plugs polarity is insured so that no mater what the plug will never connect unless it is in the proper alignment slot and even "hot" the pins will not come into contact.
They come in bulkhead mount or free standing versions and in as many as 200 pins!

Each pin is numbered to the exact opposite pin so that easy future diagnosis of the circuit can be done.
What I do is to make a pin chart that shows what each pin is connected to and is kept with the plans of the sub for future reference,this kind of plug allows for the easy access of the circuits all at one time and at one spot which is great for diagnosis and keeps the wires free from pin pricks that can allow for corrosion to enter the wire.

With one easy twist the plug is opened and the entire external electrics of the sub is disconnected.The plugs female side the one that has the flange can be installed on a casings end cap as they are strong and watertight.

Now how to install:

First select which one you need bulkhead or free standing,how many pins required to power all of the items needed plus one or two pins ,why,just in case a new item is needed or one wire should get damaged there is an extra.

Pre cut your loom to the desired length ensuring that the female side has all passed threw the bulkhead!
Make a hole that will fit the female plug in the bulkhead,pass all ,of the wires threw and start to label all of the wires in like this for instance: Motor + A then the other side of the plugs wires label Motor + B or go by the colors as long as there is no mix up as to what wire goes to the other, or device ,very important.

Start to install a drop of saulder onto each pins well that is seen on the back of each plug,do the same to the wires that are stripped back about a 1/4 inch.
Saulder the center pin first because it gets cramped in with some of the higher pin plugs.

Use the numbers on the plugs next to each pin if you like or just sight each pin and ensure that each wire is done correctly ,once done do the same to the other plug,check your work over at laest twice then power up the loom or sub and check that it works.Be sure not to use too much saulder as a cross circuit can occur.

Then open the plug and open the wires out like a flower,this will allow Goop to penetrate deep into the saudered pins ends apply enough to completely seal the pins than back up the wires about 2 inches then twist the wire back as normal and install a tie strap tightly in place just back of the pins so that the wire will not separate with time and use and cause the Goop to become dislodged and cause a leak.This method ensures that the plug is water tight and is how it is done by hand in the military.

Let the plugs dry a few hours and then install the female side into the bulkhead with 2 or 4 stainless steel screws,I use Allen head ones for easy access and pro look.
Be sure that the white line that is on the shell is viable when the plug is together on the bulkhead this is for the easy alignment of the plugs pins key and is important that it be done that way.

I also do not use the cable anchor that comes with them ,but you can use it.

If one wishes I have them pre wired and sealed with as many pins as needed just PM me for more details.

You will find that little connector is your Friend and a professional way to wire a sub for the electrical system is the nervous system of the sub and if water gets in your sub is in trouble!

Dave Amur Sub Yard

[Tugrat]

Nicely explained.

I came across these plugs ten years ago. I used to work at a place that loved all things green and gray
As with most items there are genuine, imitations and sloppy imitations. The genunine items can be quite dear due to a limited market.

If your item comes with a NSN number record this. This will assist you in sourcing from different suppliers.

From memory I remember that several tools were also available to assist in assembly.

[AQUASUB]

Yes I put them together in an exhaustive step by step MIL manual 20 years ago in the USAF ,there are several special tools used to install the pins since they came in kits that had all of the individual parts and are very costly Makes like Bendix and Am phenol are the norm in the US.

The ones I use are generic Chinese and are an exceptional deal compared to the other makes that comes in kits and special tools are required ,then one has to install the wires!

It is very difficult to get the US brands with the conductors ready to go but I have a few.