WOW, that was Fast!
Amazing. Nice work.
Mounting TV camera in Sub ?
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I did some quick pics:
You can see bottom of camera, bottom ends of P-tubes, 2 screws that hold tower on and power-connector.
3rd pic shows hole that camera looks thru, directly below gun.
Last pic shows cutouts for camera and connector at bottom of pic, and round holes for periscope tubes at top of pic, in deck/cover. Large holes are water passages.
In the pics the Hunter-Green color looks kinda blue but it's not.Last edited by toppack; 05-04-2009, 07:41 PM.Leave a comment:
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Let's have some pictures of the installation.
David,Leave a comment:
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I got the Camera/Xmitter mounted in the T-class tower, below forward gun turret, peeking out a small hole. It's working great. :)
Since I didn't have a receiver channel left, I powered it thru a toggle switch mounted thru SD end-cap, next to on/off switch, in forward WTC. Both switches will be activated by pull/push wires, thru to exterior of hull.
It has a good view out over bow.
I made the antenna exactly 4 times longer than the one it came with and works much better at that length (more range without dropouts).
The antenna wire goes up thru the forward periscope tube. Aft periscope tube is snort-pump inlet, which is installed also.Last edited by toppack; 05-04-2009, 05:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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Those I have are 1.2gHz. Most of the cameras I have did not have that info with them but found one old data sheet that said 1.2.
So now I have one at 2.4 and four at 1.2. :( Bummer!
I've been thinking all along that they were all 2.4 gHz, simple because I never saw a data sheet on them.Last edited by toppack; 01-17-2009, 06:53 PM.Leave a comment:
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Yep, they are on different frequency bands. :(
The only way to tell the difference in cameras is in Antenna length. The length on the 2.4gHz unit is about 2.4" long, (strange coincidense but makes it easy to remember) and the others are about an inch longer.
Oh well, something else to Complicate my life. ;)Last edited by toppack; 01-17-2009, 02:12 PM.Leave a comment:
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Careful, not all these system are on the same band: some on 2.4gHz, some on 2.2gHz.I got the camera and receiver (with 4 camera capibility) and the receiver Does have Auto-Tuning. :)
You just push a botton and it locks into signal from camera. I've only tried it with the 1 camera, so far, but it works great. No fine tuning needed.
That camera, altho it looks the same, will Not work with the tuning-knob type receiver, tho. :(
I'll be trying other cameras on the 4 channel receiver next. If they work, I'll be cnanging over to the 4-channel receiver to be used, with all my models, with those cameras.
And More LEDs are Always Cool! :D LOL :D
David,Leave a comment:
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I got the camera and receiver (with 4 camera capibility) and the receiver Does have Auto-Tuning. :)
You just push a botton and it locks into signal from camera. I've only tried it with the 1 camera, so far, but it works great. No fine tuning needed.
That camera, altho it looks the same, will Not work with the tuning-knob type receiver, tho. :(
I'll be trying other cameras on the 4 channel receiver next. If they work, I'll be cnanging over to the 4-channel receiver to be used, with all my models, with those cameras.
And More LEDs are Always Cool! :D LOL :DLast edited by toppack; 01-17-2009, 12:24 PM.Leave a comment:
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Mount one camera in the bow, one in the stern and one underneath pointing forward. Then you have all round vision with just a flick of the receiver button. Pretty slick I would imagine and with that big T Class it should be no problem.Leave a comment:
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Now You Tell Me!
Dang, No Auto Tuning!
Oh well, I mainly wanted another camera for the T-class anyway. I'll save that receiver for some other project.Leave a comment:
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I have one of those and it will handle four cameras, hence the LEDs to show you which camera you are on. This is usually used as a baby monitor, so you put cameras in different places. Overkill for our application and difficult to get more cameras set on the different stations.Leave a comment:
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