Yes, I had done that. It would not work properly until I did. (Adding voltages)
The thing is, it worked properly for about 20. minutes before it failed, so it must have been wired correctly.
Is there a schematic of the ES-1 available somewhere?
I'm still confused as what the circuit is inside them. :confused:
If not, I think I'll just replace the cooked one with a Hansen High-power E-switch, which has all that Info with it. Altho thicker than the ES-1, I think it will fit in the SDs available space.
(The one I've used before does require assembly tho)
He also has another assembled version, but I've not tried it.
Mounting TV camera in Sub ?
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The ES1 is good to pass at least 12-volts.
I recommend you isolate the red wire from the ES1 unit (one of the three wires that makes up to the receiver port). The ES1 has a BEC of its own and that should be isolated (disconnecting the red wire) if you're using an ESC with its own BEC, or you're using a dedicated BEC.
David,Leave a comment:
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I tested the camera under about 2" of water and it worked great. I left it in a water bowl for about 15. minutes with no problems.
But after taking it out of water I had a 'Major Meltdown'.
The SD was just sitting there transmiting, I was adjusting the video receiver and all a sudden the ES-1 E-switch lite up like a flash-bulb and puffed out a cloud of smoke. :eek:
Worst thing is that it took out the BEC in the Speed-control also. Don't know what caused it, the camera still works and it's power-connector seemed dry, when I took it apart. :confused: Don't think there were any wiring shorts since it was still working when it ignited.
So, now I'll need to install a new ESC and E-switch. :mad:
Maybe that ES-1 just had a weak component in it. All part of the process, I guess. :(
Are we having Fun Yet!Leave a comment:
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Also, when I'm running the boat without the TV monitor with me, I want to be able to disable the camera load, since any currect drain, altho low, will shorten run time some, on the very small battery-pack (due to limited space in SD).
I'm accustomed to using large 5.pound, 12.V, 8.AmpHour Batteries in my RC Ship models. :D LOL :D
(They will 'Last All Day', and then some) :)Last edited by toppack; 11-19-2008, 03:12 PM.Leave a comment:
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I like to be able to turn off any optional function, when possible. In the event there is a failure, while at the lake, I can disable it easily and continue on, with 'Havin' Fun'. :)
(without having to go inside and pull the connector)
I already have the E-switch installed and working anyway. :)
I think the Caswell WTC (altho great) would be much too large to fit, hidden inside the Gato sail, the way I wish to mount it.
I'm pretty sure the newer version of the camera is water-tight, so the only possible leak area is the power wires connector and that would be a potential problem with any WTC also.
(since I definitely want to be able to disconnect it)
I only put RTV on Camera for a little 'Piece of Mind'. :DLast edited by toppack; 11-19-2008, 01:03 PM.Leave a comment:
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Why do you go to the trouble to turn the thing on and off -- it draws so little power anyway, just hardwire it to the BEC and be done with it.I got the external video-camera wired to the E-switch inside SD, and tested. Works great. :)
Next step is to test it with camera/transmitter under water. :confused:
I think I'll pile on another layer of RTV, onto it's connector, first.
I may have to have a few beers before I can get up the Nerve to Dunk it with power applied. :D
And just as soon as you flood out the camera-transmitter, invest in a proper WTC for the thing -- you'll find the CAMERA WTC in the Caswell catalog. And it will flood eventually as the water works it's way past the RTV'ed wires and into the camera-transmitter case.
Penny wise, pound fooling you are, sir.
David,Leave a comment:
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I got the external video-camera wired to the E-switch inside SD, and tested. Works great. :)
Next step is to test it with camera/transmitter under water. :confused:
I think I'll pile on another layer of RTV, onto it's connector, first.
I may have to have a few beers before I can get up the Nerve to Dunk it with power applied. :DLast edited by toppack; 11-19-2008, 10:10 AM.Leave a comment:
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Okay, They came out with no problem. I didn't even crush the tubing. :)Leave a comment:
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Grab with pliers, twist, pull. 'snap!' it's outa there with a clean 3/32" hole to do with as you want.I may be able to run the power-wires for camera thur snort-tubing holes in motor bulkhead (that I'm not using) instead of pluging them. That way I can utilize existing holes and not have to drill hole for camera wire. :)
David,
Are the brass tubes just glued into motor bulkhead?
How much work would it be to remove the tubes, without damage to bulkhead?
David,Leave a comment:
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I may be able to run the power-wires for camera thur snort-tubing holes in motor bulkhead (that I'm not using) instead of pluging them. That way I can utilize existing holes and not have to drill hole for camera wire. :)
David,
Are the brass tubes just glued into motor bulkhead?
How much work would it be to remove the tubes, without damage to bulkhead?Last edited by toppack; 11-16-2008, 04:49 PM.Leave a comment:
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I was looking more closely at the newer version of the camera/transmitter assembly and it appears to be completely sealed and water-tight. The only area I could not be sure about was the hole for internal microphone. So I'll seal that and where the power and antenna wires go thru, to make sure. Then Dunk it in some water, to find out what happens. ;)
If it doesn't leak, that will certainly save a lot of work designing and making an openable sealed box for it to go into and a sealed clear window for it to see out. :)
But if it does leak I may be buying another camera and starting over again. :mad:
Ah ... err .... ah ... hmmmm... yeah, OK.
David,Leave a comment:
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I was looking more closely at the newer version of the camera/transmitter assembly and it appears to be completely sealed and water-tight. The only area I could not be sure about was the hole for internal microphone. So I'll seal that and where the power and antenna wires go thru, to make sure. Then Dunk it in some water, to find out what happens. ;)
If it doesn't leak, that will certainly save a lot of work designing and making an openable sealed box for it to go into and a sealed clear window for it to see out. :)
But if it does leak I may be buying another camera and starting over again. :mad:Last edited by toppack; 11-15-2008, 02:00 PM.Leave a comment:
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