Mike,
I don't remember if you said, but is it made from Gel-coat on exterior, with fiberglass on inside?
That's what it looks like in pics.
If so, I would probably cut it with cut-off wheels that fit Dremel. The new diamond impregnated type. They make a very thin cut and don't break like the old Dremel cut-off wheels. They did a great job on the FG T-class.
Steady hands or a holding fixture are required but these wheels cut so easy it's not too difficult to hold steady.
Of course they can cut fingers Just as Easy.
See Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-DIAMOND-CUT-O...3A1%7C294%3A50
The Great British M1
Collapse
X
-
I've just received the first M1 pull from the molds.
We've decided to go with the split as supplied (see photos). I think this gives more options for real model-makers to tinker with their own ideas.
I'm going to ship the model with the excess material on it, as it offers a great deal of protection during shipping. (And it saves us doing it)
The excess trims off easily with a utility knife, and I found that the edge is easily smoothed off by laying a piece of 120 grit sandpaper on the table top and running the hull half evenly up and down.
I am going to glue the hull halves together using epoxy and Cabosil to thicken it, letting the material squeeze out of the joints. Once this is done, then I am going to cut the hull, probably in a Z cut. There is very little space in the Duck's Tail stern for rudder arms etc. so this needs a lot of thought I'm thinking that I should make the cut about 1/4" forward of the rudder shaft, so that access is easier. I've been caught too many times fiddling around with the innards of these boats being just out of reach.
Another few days and I should have the rudders and dive planes molded and in production. As previously stated, the Lambert plans have struts showing on planes & rudder, and that is a mistake, so the new planes will be smooth.
Any ideas on how you would cut the hull, please?Leave a comment:
-
-
I asked John Lambert in England about the ribs on his plans. Here is his reply.
Hi Mike,
Well, I'm not sure, but the ribs do look a bit thick. Although they ARE shown on the original drawing, I suggest that the outer shell is smooth, and that the ribs are internal. Does that help?
Unfortunately all the photographs show the fins underwater. But thinking about it all the other classes are smooth, so why change it.
Yours "Aye" John.
So I guess I'm getting out the filler and smoothing out those planes. Darn, I had fun making them!Leave a comment:
-
Well, it looks like The Wizard has cast his evil spell on my work and my interpretation of Lambert's plans. He seems to think the ribs are far too pronounced and that the planes are contoured/profiled. The 'ribs' I show, should be just mere thin plates on a profiled aerodynamic foil, not the huge thick cast struts I depict.
However, I think that the S Class and T Class planes are obviously just flat steel sheets with no aerodynamic shape to them. I've asked some British scuba divers who are familiar with the wreck if they can confirm the shapes for me.Leave a comment:
-
I guess that makes sense. I thought they got half way done and said screw it. You know the british!Leave a comment:
-
-
-
Mike is that seriously how they look with the ribbing exposed
Planes and rudder now available for the M1
1st photo shows the parts being made from styrene sheet and 1/2 round rod, welded into place with Solvent Weld.
I mixed up a pile of sprue and solvent to make a sloppy paste, then applied it to areas that needed gap filling. Finally painted with Krylon Fusion.
My next project is to make the rubber molds and produce them out of epoxy.
My GRP guy informed me he has the first model pulled from the mold and I should have it within a couple of days. :)Leave a comment:
-
Planes and rudder now available for the M1
1st photo shows the parts being made from styrene sheet and 1/2 round rod, welded into place with Solvent Weld.
I mixed up a pile of sprue and solvent to make a sloppy paste, then applied it to areas that needed gap filling. Finally painted with Krylon Fusion.
My next project is to make the rubber molds and produce them out of epoxy.
My GRP guy informed me he has the first model pulled from the mold and I should have it within a couple of days. :)Leave a comment:
-
We (Merriman and I) originally felt that we'd make a new plug from the molds, he'd scribe on a load of details, and then we'd make new molds etc. However, those plans have changed because the torpedo project loomed up with the advent of a few new gizmos we found. So, we've simply decided to produce a few of the model hulls (as per previous photos) and let those more expert at grp work deal with the control surfaces etc.
As I see it, these aren't too difficult to make from scratch.
1st pull will be ready in about 10 days, so let me know if you want in.Leave a comment:
-
Actually, I got it wrong. There are two hull halves, split vertically. Then there is the Conning Tower and gun mounting platform, and finally a top hull section which could be used as an alternative way to cut the hull horizontally. 4 pieces. =$200Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: