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Does anyone see any potential in the model submarine arena?
Mike,
Very creative and interesting.
It would be a great way to get "wires" to those very tiny LEDs. Any idea of the resistance? Does this one have silver in it? What is the shelf life once open?
Peace,
Tom
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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My main purpose for engaging this material was for PCBs and the like. I have started to carry MG Chemicals line of boards, developers and etch materials, so this seemed a natural. MGC also have a number of silver repair solders etc. I honestly can't see too many applications for submarines, but if you don't put the goods on the shelf, they'll rot in the warehouse!
I am also working on a new kit for photo etching using cupric acid etc. My main difference is the tank, and I 'hope' to have it operating by spraying the etch onto the boards or brass sheets. It should be faster and less problematic that ferric chloride, which is messy to use and a pig to ship.
Mike,
Very creative and interesting.
It would be a great way to get "wires" to those very tiny LEDs. Any idea of the resistance? Does this one have silver in it? What is the shelf life once open?
Peace,
Tom
Yes it has silver in it. Seems to have an indefinite shelf life, but that would depend on the storage conditions once opened. I think this is water based.
According to the manufacturers information, this material will handle up to 12 VDC.
Not too shabby, since most of our modeling applications are less than that!!
Extremely usefull for very small units, such as "Trouts" Aluminaut!!! Small diameter hull tube
and in need of numerous internal components. The less internal wire, the more room for essential
parts!!
Gary,
I played with the cheaper carbon version of the paint for the aluminum and the results were less than spectacular. The resistance was a huge factor in not using it. For small distances it worked, but when I drew out longer lines it just did not work well at all. Then adhesion was another issue. It flaked off so easily that it was frustrating. I found that the pastes/pens with silver were much better, but the professional ones were big dollars (or Pounds) and the shelf life was 6 months or less. Since I would not use it in enough quantities or in that short time frame, I abandoned the idea.
Peace,
Tom
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
If the goal is this flat concealable wire. I'd suggest copper foil tape. Used for stained glass and very successful as the traces for home made slot car tracks. Has an adhesive back, takes solder well and is mere thousandths thick. Widths vary, but I bet you could slice it even narrower if you like.
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