1/72 scale revell gato

[myork]

RVG005

The Complete Revell Gato Submarine Kit

ok what all will i need to finish this sub other than transmiter recever and alot of time

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

This:

http://caswellplating.com/models/gato.html

[anateus9]

I'm ready to start converting my Gato kit...besides the cabal reports, are there instructions in print other than the dvd series Caswell offers? I'm used to instructions in print format. Anything out there?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Look here:

http://vabiz.com/d&e/articles.html

[anateus9]

Thanks David. I received my sub driver kit yesterday, and as an engineer, I really appreciate the amount of work that went into developing this kit...very impressive. That being said, even though I like to figure thing out, I have a few basic questions: (1) Is there an initial height setting for the setscrew adjustment on the vent valve lever - I'd like to avoid the trial and error of resealing the valve assembly. Also, has anyone tried to make a slot on the bottom of the screw to facilitate adjustment from the bottom access hole? (2) Initial control setup - what are the recommendations for controlling the front and rear dive planes - work in parallel or opposite angles?
Thanks again for your assistance.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks David. I received my sub driver kit yesterday, and as an engineer, I really appreciate the amount of work that went into developing this kit...very impressive. That being said, even though I like to figure thing out, I have a few basic questions: (1) Is there an initial height setting for the setscrew adjustment on the vent valve lever - I'd like to avoid the trial and error of resealing the valve assembly. Also, has anyone tried to make a slot on the bottom of the screw to facilitate adjustment from the bottom access hole? (2) Initial control setup - what are the recommendations for controlling the front and rear dive planes - work in parallel or opposite angles?
Thanks again for your assistance.

Hey ... we got your money! Shove off!!!

(pause two beats)

Naw! Just kidding.

I like the slot on the bottom of the vent valve adjusting screw idea. Done it myself. You'll need a narrow, long screwdriver but, it is accessible from the bottom, aft flood-drain hole. But, once you set things up as I describe below, you won't have to fiddle with it again (famous last words).

here's the initial set-up for the vent valve: With the ballast sub-system servo at neutral, the two wheel-collars that girdle the vertical portion of the ballast linkage arm will hold it perfectly vertical. Before screwing the vent valve assembly down onto the cylinder, position the adjusting screw (secured to the after end of the horizontal leg of the ballast linkage arm) so that it's head is about 1/16" below the surface of the cylinder. Screw the vent valve assembly in place (do not apply RTV sealant!), put your lips over the hole, suck, and see if it holds a slight vacuum. Keep working the adjusting screw till it does. Then move the ballast servo to 'blow' and adjust the blow valve position so that the blow valve stem is displaced by the after face of the vertical portion of the ballast linkage arm. Move the servo to 'vent' and check that the rubber element of the vent valve assemble unseats from the valve body, and opens up to the ballast tank. Set the servo back to neutral and check that both the vent and blow valves are shut. Apply RTV sealant around the body of the vent valve assembly where it makes contact with the cylinder.

You're done.





David,

[anateus9]

Thanks David.

[anateus9]

David, I'm finally progessing the build to installing the pushrods into the subdriver and noticed one seal was too small to pass the 1/16 rod through. I finally reamed it out to be able to insert the rod, but I'm afraid the seal was damaged. I ordered replacements, and my question to you is what is the best way to remove the seal assembly - push it out or does it have to be drilled? I don't remember this being addressed in the DVDs, which by the way, were excellent.

Thanks for your time,
Mark

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hey, Mark.

You may have clobbered the O-ring as you drilled the bore open a bit. An extra seal was provided in the package that came with your SubDriver -- still got it? If not, e-mail me your address (dmeriman@aol.com) with a list of what you need and I'll blast it off to you.

But, before pushing that pushrod seal body out (push with a dowel applied from the dry-side fact of the motor bulkhead after you pull out the pushrod, of course) -- not a big task, as it's glued in there with RTV adhesive/gasket maker -- leak test to see if in fact any air gets by the pushrod and seal, you might be good.

If you do replace the seal body, secure the new one using RTV adhesive.

Pictures! ... I want pictures!!! Get this thing done, Mark.

David,

[anateus9]

Duuughhhh

Boy, do I feel stupid...it never dawned on me that part was a seal...I thought it was some sort of connector. Thanks for the instructions, I got the new seal in with no sweat. I will be sending in some pictures...this has been a great project, my only complaint is that I don't have enough spare time to work on as much as I want!

Best regards,
Mark

[lhillmann]

I recently received my sub driver kit for the Gato model. I'm actually building the Barb since I once met the CO, Medal of Honor recipient Gene Fluckey. I qualified on the Fleet Boat class back in the '70s. As you may be aware, the sub driver now available is somewhat different from the one used in the dvd's. Do you have any recommendations for component arrangements on the existing foundations? I intend to split the motors so that I can run the props independently and will also install forward torpedo tube operating mechanisms. Thanks for your help. Leo Hillmann

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yeah, some changes over the years: The foward dry space is a tad longer to make the battery an easier fit; the conduit tube is smaller in diameter and is now brass instead of clear Lexan; better engineered ballast bulkheads; the after dry space is a couple inches shorter owing to the smaller devices now available to us (thank you, Kevin McLoeod!); there's a purpose built resin foundation that will fit four mini servos; a space between them is provided for the recommended Sombra Lab SL-6 or SL-8 receiver, and the mounting hardward is designed to accommodate the small LPB and associated MPC.

My reducing the length of the SD I made room for practical weapons.

What boat? My first was USS TRUTTA out of Key West about the same time as you. We eventually turned it over to the Turk's.

David,

[lhillmann]

Thanks David. I qualified on Greenfish in Pearl. They now have Bowfin on display out there. Great exhibit and source of info for modelers. I'll order the hardware (I'll need any xtra sped controller for the split motors) and see how it goes. May be back to you for guidance. Thanks again. Leo

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I off-crewed on Ford Island when on the WEBSTER (we operated the boat out of Guam) from 72 on.

Don't bother with the two motor steering, the rudder is good enough. Don't make this project any harder than you have too.

David