Trumpeter 1/144 Gato build

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  • crazygary
    replied
    The kits' molded props are "ca-ca"!!
    They will require a little rework so that they can effectively
    "bite-and-spit" water!!

    Here's one right from the sprue:
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    Notice the "flat" around the entire perimeter of the blades! Not good!!

    Here's the same prop after a bit of "massaging":
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    Oops! Sorry about the focus, or lack thereof!!

    The edges, all around, were tapered so as form a bit of a "knife edge"!
    Should be quite a bit more efficienter!! Yep! E-fish-en-ter! You heard it here!! (LOL)

    Same prop, different color:
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    Mo' bettah!!!

    Back to "da bench"!!

    crazygary, out!

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Thank you, Sir!!

    CG

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Coat 'em with thin formula CA and you greatly increase the shear strength of the blades. Sure, sharpen the leading and trailing edges. Knock yourself out. You're fine.

    M
    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 03-24-2014, 05:19 PM. Reason: can't spell today ... why should today be any different than the others??

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Coat 'em with thin formula CA and you greatly increase the shear strength of the blades. Sure, sharpen the leading and trailing edges. Know yourself out. You're fine.

    M

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Prop question, M!!

    While waiting for glue joints to set up, I turned to the plastic, injection molded
    props included in the kit, which you thought I could use!

    Although the blades look to be functional, they are square edged. That is, the edges
    of the blades are .026-.030" thick. My question is, if I, very carefully, sand them so as to end up with a "knife edge"
    all the way around the individual blades, is there any way that I can make them a little less susceptible to damage??

    They're about 5/8" in diameter, and look really easy to "trash"!! Would something like a coat of clear fingernail polish,
    or something like it, be of any benefit? There are brass props out there at about 18 bucks a piece, but you seemed to
    think that the injection molded ones would suffice!

    I'd try my hand at "rolling-my-own", but me old "peepers" ain't whut they used ta was!! Hah!!

    Any thoughts??

    CG

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Carbon fiber rod showed up today, so I'm redoing my control surface pushrods! Just need to put the SD
    in and measure the rod lengths needed. Photos tomorrow!

    A little tractor work today, so no major progress!! Got a "bum" well that I'm trying to get back on line!
    Gotta maintain 2500 gallons for the firefighters to use, if needed! Major "not good" thing going on there!
    Well pump is bound", so I'll have to have a camera dropped down the well to see what's up!

    Thank you Murphy! You a** hole!!

    Managed to et a little deck detailing done today, but no pix yet!

    crazy gary, out!

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Wow!! That makes perfect sense. If the crew needed to get below decks in a hurry, they sure as heck wouldn't want to
    be fiddling around with watertight doors! Therefore, left open they shall remain!!

    A bit of historical information unknown by many, I'm sure. Much appreciated, Tom!!

    CG

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  • trout
    replied
    Because during war time, there were no doors on the side of the conning tower. It was left open.

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Railing and ladder detailing is finished! CA is doing the job pretty nicely! Paint should help tighten up the joints.
    Click image for larger version

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    Slow going here lately, as I'm waiting for ordered goodies to arrive! (Still waiting!)

    Need carbon fiber rod for control surface pushrods, so I can glue the hull halves together!
    Once I can get that done, things should pick up pretty briskly!!

    Photo etched brass radar and mast assembly is "out there" somewhere! May even be on the way??

    While waiting (Still!! Hah!!) I can add details to the main deck.
    i.e.- hatches, bollards, etc.

    Oh, yeah!! Gotta make up some watertight doors to cover up the "doorways" on the
    sides of the con! Can't imagine why it was molded this way!?

    All for now, sports fans!!

    crazygary, out!

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Just thinkin'!

    Once the CA "goobers" are gone, it may want to self-destruct, so,
    I'll probably' end up going one stanchion at a time and soldering them!!

    Oh, goodie!!! Hah!!

    CG

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  • crazygary
    replied
    A couple photos of the forward gun deck on the con:
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    The stanchions are .032" diameter brass wire, and the railings are .016" brass wire,
    as are the ladders on both sides of the con.

    The railings are attached with CA adhesive and once set up well, will be cleaned of
    all the "goobers" at the joints!

    Still need to put an access hatch to the gun deck from the con. Will probably make that from .020" styrene, with hinges
    and latch made from .016" brass wire!

    Y'all have a nice, relaxing Sunday evenin' now, ya hear!!

    crazygary, out!

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Ooo! Ooo!
    I figured out what the "gizmo" is!!!

    It be a "gun director" of sorts!! Huh?? Huh??

    Who'zz yer Daddy!!(LOL)

    CG

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  • crazygary
    replied
    Just a few progress photos. I decided to go with the USS Thresher conversion.

    This is the $45.00 conversion from Nautilus Models:
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    This is my "freebie" conversion, so far:
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    The forward gun platform is .020" thick styrene, as is the platform access hatch. A little hobby saw work, a little filing
    and a little sanding and thar she be!! Arrrgh!! Still a little filler work left to do!

    The forward platform will be fitted with a single 40mm. Bofors, and the rear gun platform will have a single 20mm Oerlikon.
    The main deck gun will be the 3"/50, probably mounted forward of the con.

    Masts are on order and are the photo-etched set from White Ensign.

    Not quite sure just what the heck the other "gizmo" is on the rear platform of the Nautilus conversion?????
    I know one's a gun (duh!), but the tuther'n....Beer cooler?? Vertical microwave?? Johnson rod support??
    Any clues would be appreciated!!

    Stanchions will be made from 1/32" brass rod with .016" diameter railings, so I can tweak a few dozen
    more brain cells!! Hah!!

    When all this good stuff gets to me, ah kin git 'er done!!!!

    That is all..............

    crazygary, out!

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  • crazygary
    replied
    O.K.!!

    The "nut job" here is gonna modify his con to look like this one:
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    Really??? OH, yeah!! Just can't seem to be able to justify spending 45bucks, plus shipping,
    for a piece of molded resin!!

    I've got quite an assortment of styrene shapes and I'm pretty confident that I
    can pull it off!!? (Film at eleven?)

    It may not turn out to be "dimensionally perfect", but will be pretty darn close, or,
    as close as this "old fart" can get it, as long as "Murphy" doesn't f*ck with me!! Hah!!

    Photos later in the day!

    crazygary, "screwball extraordinaire"!!

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  • crazygary
    replied
    G'Day, Myron!!

    I have been looking at conversions for either the USS Gurnard (SS-254) or the USS Thresher (SS-200),
    which will update her to a 1943 sub. Both conversions are pretty nice looking. The Thresher conversion
    also has added sponsons, for the big 5"/51 deck gun, so as to give the gun crews a bit more room in
    which to operate the gun without going overboard! Never a good thing!! Hah!!

    These are available from Nautilus Models. Just need to justify $45US for the update!!

    The provided con is, currently, just for "show" until I decide which conversion I want to go with!

    Have a good one and may I say, "Long live the Opti-Visor"!!(LOL)

    crazygary

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