Seaview

[junglelord]

Ok Dean.

If you have a rotery tool brill, if you do not ,not a prob the Seaview deck is removed with a craft knife,but after scoring you need to cut the ribs supporting the deck that is why it is less hassel to remove them while still in bits.

And to answer your question a multi speed tool is far superior to a single speed unit used for grinding bits of plastic from pump jet tubes etc..

Ray

What did you mean by that Ray?
Do you mean before its fitted together?
What is a brill?
The craft knife is used from the outside or inside
to scribe the superstructure and to cut it off.
A few simple photos might help a definition ignorant guy like me.

[RAY]

Seaview

Ok guys ,still not built a boat,have drilled and cleaned up all the fittings,sanded the hull filled and repaired the damage from cutting it apart.

Its now not too shabby!,As I dont actually have a Sub Driver I am going to build from scratch It wont be as elegant as the Caswell unit but I hope it will drive the boats.

I MUST POINT OUT NOT BUYING A DAVE/CASWELL UNIT IS NOT A MONETERY THING I HAVE A MODEL ENGINEERING WORKSHOP AND MAKING THIS UNIT IS PART OF THE FUN,

The caswell/merriman unit is VERY good value for money,and before anyone says I must be good friends with the duo,my posts on this forum are basically my only contact with either, but I have watched this creation from the start,and it has been a lot of work for them to get it right.

Back to the plot,I will try to show all the relavent parts to the build and if anyone has a question,no problem, if you think I missed a bit,or I did not explain correctly tell me.

Ray

[RAY]

Ok Dean.

If you have a rotery tool brill, if you do not ,not a prob the Seaview deck is removed with a craft knife,but after scoring you need to cut the ribs supporting the deck that is why it is less hassel to remove them while still in bits.

And to answer your question a multi speed tool is far superior to a single speed unit used for grinding bits of plastic from pump jet tubes etc..

Ray

[junglelord]

Well I am confused. I do need a variable speed Moto-tool...I don't need a Variable speed Dremel...Whats the difference? Sorry.
:confused:

[RAY]

Seaview

Just a small note that may help,you dont need a dremmel tool for the Seaview,but if your boat is still in kit form ,remove the supprts from under the deck,makes the job easy,

Have a look at the picture.

Ray

[junglelord]

Good news gentlemen....my brother has a variable speed dremel. So that saves me $100!
I will check the specs. (Ok this one is 10,000 to 35,000) I am guessing you cut this styrene at the lowest speed? I notice the other ones were 5,000 to 35,000! Hope this one is slow enough.
I will try a piece of attachement stem on the lowest speed. Are you guys using a simple cutting disc?

Listen they have a dremel router table on sale and I also save 10% on my brothers card, $27...Should I get it, or not needed at this time? The store has no dremel drill press units. Looking for ways to not buy any tools until I can pay for the conversion kit. I hope your right Ray and I can put all my dough towards this terrible exchange rate.

I wish the dollar would hold its own against American.
Censored

The longer it takes to pull this together, the worst I think my dollar will be.
Censored

Keep me up to date on your build Ray and thanks so much. Its great to hear about the grandchildren being involved. I am going to invest for one for my own granddaughter.

[RAY]

Seaview

Hi Dean,
You dont need all the equipment, you always have someone you know who will help,all the tools come eventually.
Some of us wrinkly old people have been building for forty years and you alway start with the basics,I can always think about the need for a new piece of equipment but will make do,so dont panic.

Just please dont paint the new Seaview GOLD!!!.LOL

Ray

[junglelord]

Thats so kind of you to help me out.
Its important to have a drill press for the rudders I would think.
I need a vice. A Moto-tool. A Dremel drill press.

I like the steel around the pumpjet. Very nice.
I have no real experience in this hobby.
My Robbe SeaWolf was a start.
This is more equipment required.
Either that or go to a friend with the equipment....
not sure who that would be...LOL.

So I need to include that as part of my start-up cost to make a conversion. Thats ok, but being on a pension and sending my son to college will slow me down till I sell the Motorcycle.
:p

I can get my head around this several times, buy the equipment, then the Sub driver.

I will still order my DVDS and Fitting kit this week.
I'll drink to THAT!

Keep it coming.
:D

[RAY]

Shim Steel

Yes David you are right ,I have 32 subs only 6 are kits.

Onward..ShimSteel to hold the nice little units that David made to drive our boats,this is normally used by engineers to take up play or to shim a lathe tool to the correct height,It has a couple of drawbacks.

1 It is usally made from low grade stainless,which means it can rust if not sealed correctly.
2 It is like a razor on its cut edge,be warned.

From the pics you can see that it can be cut with normal scissors,you need to make it slightly narrower than the pump jet, they have a slight taper,then a small hole needs to be drilled so you can disassemble your pump jets I used a 3 mm drill.
next you need to spread silicone on one side full cover you dont need a lot of it, then just simply wrap it around the pump jet align the the hole for the grub screw,hold it altogether with a tight rubber band,job done let it dry...

Remember we are not racing, while bits are drying do some of the less glamorouse jobs a bit of sanding/filling.

I hope the pics show the process.

Ray

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Good for you, Ray. Not enough of that going around these days. Our kids are loosing their motor-skills and (practical) problem solving ability.

Yes, to some of us this is very much a passion.

David,

[RAY]

Seaview

Thank you David,
I am just bowled over.

I have only known one other person with a passion for submarines,his name is John Darnell,He always looked to find the easy ways for a kit builder to get a boat in the water,his kits worked out of the box.

In recent times I have spoken at great lenght to a gentleman called Chris who owns sheerline I have one of his subs they also work out of the box.

But sadly all too few people join this hobby and build a boat,they just build kits,we have many fine modellers, just look around this forum,whilst the enjoyment of building a kit and seeing it run is a major feel good factor,it just does not compare to building a boat however poorly crafted from basic meterials and seeing that boat run and being able to say I made it from a block of whatever.

I am putting the Seaviews together with the grand kids 7and 9 already the games machine have been abandoned and my workshop is the new play room,begining to feel all young again.............


Ray

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ray,

Very good stuff. You're answering questions I've only glossed over -- and you're right, many people out there don't have our skill sets yet, nor wealth of experience, two things vital to successful kit-assembly and model building.

Keep it up!

David,

[RAY]

Seaview

Thanks for that Dave,
It is easy to get a solid bond in resin parts,small groove in the end of the shaft dip in catalised resin it wont come off.

Ok less chit chat more work,
I now look at the new rudders,Nice...but they require a very small hole drilling in a very thin part of them.

Because of the shape of the rudders you will find that they are only held just behind the leading edge when in a vise,and if you grip them too hard you are filling and sanding again,if you line the inside of your vise with the soft vynyl bathroom sealer the stuff that comes on a roll and is self adhesive it imparts a good grip on the part without damage.

keeping it all square..
Because of the small size a small ladies mirror works a treat, I hope you can see in the pics you can use it as a set square and it allows you to see around the part in the miller/pillar drill and enables you to line everything up,simple.

Always use sharp tooling and take your time,use low speed,and of course be safety concious at all times.

I am not trying to re invent the wheel but some of my rambling is aimed at our younger members,what we older guys take for granted,the not so old guys somtimes find difficult we have all been there.

The other pic shows the two meterials I use,one is grp rod the other is carbon fibre,in the uk you can get the grp rod from B and Q..

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Well Dean
believe me when I say I have a cupboard full of cock ups from having ideas.
Anyway on with the build,both boats are now back in kit form,with only slight damage


I have re drilled most of my fitting kits so I can use my prefered shafting which is 3mm grp or carbon rod the castings are drilled 3mm any mountings are drilled to 3.2mm for clearence.

The pics show front planes test fitted and the damage to the deck.the propulsor housings have been honed out so I can wrap Davids units with 5 thou thick shim steel instead of using tape still all held with silicone,

I Will post better pics as I progress.

Ray

Looking good, Ray. And I like the .005" shim sheet. Good call. I assume you had originally stuck the kit parts together with CA? Good tear-down, not too much carnage evident.

And I like the carbon fiber operating shafts. Another good call.

Make sure you weld the parts back together with solvent cement -- after first filing off all remaining CA.

[junglelord]

Thanks Ray, building my confidence even more.
I'll drink to THAT!