rc sub workshop wtc kit

[cconeill]

to the great kahuna. I screwed up. bought this wtc from rc sub workshop. looked like a wtc I could put together. was going to make it dynamic. low budget u-boat. boy is that the truth. LOL!!! the parts showed up today in a pizza box from Hong Kong. with Missing parts! will any of this work for a surface runner. one bummed want a beeeeeee.

[vital.spark]

I live in Hong Kong and I would not even buy Pizza from Pizza Hut Hong Kong (expensive here and no good)!! You get what you pay for is the old saying. David's Sub Drivers arn't cheap but they work and there is support even years after the fact!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

to the great kahuna. I screwed up. bought this wtc from rc sub workshop. looked like a wtc I could put together. was going to make it dynamic. low budget u-boat. boy is that the truth. LOL!!! the parts showed up today in a pizza box from Hong Kong. with Missing parts! will any of this work for a surface runner. one bummed want a beeeeeee.

Looks like you have the makings of a fine window plant-box there, pal. Enjoy.

Step up to the plate:

http://www.sub-driver.com/sub-drivers/sas-sub-drivers-3/sas-sub-driver-for-d-e-1-96-skipjack-model-kit.html

http://www.sub-driver.com/sub-drivers/sas-sub-drivers-3/sas-sub-driver-for-d-e-1-96-skipjack-model-kit.html

(thanks, Myron)

M

[Slats]

FMD
jeepers creepers you bought a bucket of high cost crap. Thanks for posting this - now we know.

And people wonder why (well some do), I only buy from David my wtcs.

Unless the vendor shows you demonstrated backup of the product, pictures and schematics of it, and can demonstrate it working, -run from the building, preferably screaming as a service to others.
There are a few fine RC sub kit and WTC makers about - you'll know these guys as buying there product is an exercise of spending serious cash and they're positive rep will be easy to find. I only hope this lesson wasn't too costly for you. Oh an avoid the temptation to go off and buy a RETARDS experimenters kit. "Experimenters kit" is code for you're on your own trying to make it work. RETARDS - is code for Recirculating Experimental Tried And Rejected Dive System, also known to those who love operating a static sub that has an abnormal surfaced trim as RCABS.

J

[cconeill]

I took a small hit. I will now take the tops to there wtc and use it on the f/g box I make to fit in the hull. a surface runner is fine for me. now if I had got what was on there websight and it all mated up it would have been very cool. working on an xcat speed boat 45 inches long. there wild little cats!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZLYwNCBjNQ&feature=youtu.be

[cconeill]

I took a small hit. I will now take the tops to there wtc and use it on the f/g box I make to fit in the hull. a surface runner is fine for me. now if I had got what was on there websight and it all mated up it would have been very cool. working on an xcat speed boat 45 inches long. there wild little cats!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZLYwNCBjNQ&feature=youtu.be

[subkraft]

...RETARDS.
So true. Built it three times trying get the waterline right.
Never happened.

[reddevil]

You've saved a lot of money for a lot of people.

[Subculture]

I've seen the RC sub workshop stuff, majority of it looks liek good kit to me, and realistically priced.

Pretty much all their range is based on cylindrical WTC's not the flat hatch style shown here. Clearly this was real bargain basement stuff.

I find all this slanging off of other ballast systems a little pointless. Regardless of what anyone says, all systems have their pros and cons, you just pick the ones you feel you can live with.

[cconeill]

I would really be happy if I got what was in the picture. pre-drilled holes, the motor and wireing tube there add said I would get. so if I use this wtc what glue would you use to bond the parts and fill GAPS?? I will try it. just need good advice. Craig

[cconeill]

I would really be happy if I got what was in the picture. pre-drilled holes, the motor and wireing tube there add said I would get. so if I use this wtc what glue would you use to bond the parts and fill GAPS?? I will try it. just need good advice. CraigSal

[subkraft]

It looks like laser cut acrylic.

A sign maker should be able to sell you a tin of the toxic stuff they use to make light boxes . You need a mask to work with it.
Or the cement that hobbyshops sell to cement those Plastruct sections together......tho this doesn't seem to be quite as good a bond, tho more convenient to work with.

[Slats]

I've seen the RC sub workshop stuff, majority of it looks liek good kit to me, and realistically priced.

Pretty much all their range is based on cylindrical WTC's not the flat hatch style shown here. Clearly this was real bargain basement stuff.

I find all this slanging off of other ballast systems a little pointless. Regardless of what anyone says, all systems have their pros and cons, you just pick the ones you feel you can live with.

its not slanging off Andy -disingenuous products should be well critiqued. This includes your own proper comments against that particular Astute a few months back.

Too many guys enter the sub hobby with a bum steer towards cheap solutions that in the long run are a false economy. As CConeill stated - it would have been nice if he got what he thought he was buying that was demonstrated in the pictures.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I would really be happy if I got what was in the picture. pre-drilled holes, the motor and wireing tube there add said I would get. so if I use this wtc what glue would you use to bond the parts and fill GAPS?? I will try it. just need good advice. CraigSal

Slow-cure epoxy.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I would really be happy if I got what was in the picture. pre-drilled holes, the motor and wireing tube there add said I would get. so if I use this wtc what glue would you use to bond the parts and fill GAPS?? I will try it. just need good advice. CraigSal

Slow-cure epoxy.

M