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I'm thinking about making a large WTC similar, but longer, to one pictured below, for the Nautilus, using 4" clear PVC tube, glued on adapters and screw-in plumbing end-caps. I'll reduce length of end-caps tho, by removing some of the threads area and remove part of the glued attaching flange area.
Anyone tried screw in end-caps?
They work for sewer pipes but I have no Idea how they will handle any outside water pressure?
Yup
Plan on using alot of vasoline or such to seal the threads and having a wrench handy to get the endcaps off. The screw endcaps only work good when they are torqued down tight. I eventually just made some endcaps for the thing and that worked alot better. I can share pictures if you like.
Yes, pictures would be great, if not too much trouble.
I'm having problems getting the SD apart, with O-ring seals, since there's no where to put a wrench. :D
So figured being able to use a Big Wrench would keep me Happy. :D LOL :D
Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
your better off making a small groove in the endcap where you can get a flat head screw driver in easily and prying them apart. You are going to need two good arms for the sewer pipe. If your insistent though...
Thanks for the pics, looks very similar to what I thought was a 'New Idea'. :rolleyes:
I guess there are No Real 'New Ideas'. :D
(Except that I plan to use clear tube).
But why did you cut out the side (or top) of the tube? Did you glue it back in place after fitting everything or is it removeable?
It seems it would be easier to mount everything on 2 slide-in trays or brackets (one in each end) similar to David's SDs and Not cut the tube?
I plan to mount motor and gear-reduction assembly on one end-cap and the electronics on the other end cap.
I'll need to check the fit after getting the hull, tho. I may have to make 2 WTCs, 1 fore and 1 aft of the saloon area, since there's going to be a lot wiring there for lights, etc..
or tangle the wires needlessly. The top of mine was siliconed on so that I could work inside with ease. Not to easy to see things when the tube aint clear. Needed a window to see if it was leaking aswell so i wouldnt have to rip it apart every time.
If you put things on sliding trays youll never be able to twist the endcap off. Either they are affixed to the endcaps themselves or you make an opening like i did.
Well, I'm considering different options right now, I'm just checking around for the best system to use, considering what I want to do with it and my budget. But I'm thinking I'll only want to surface-cruise it. Since I'll eventually have the other 3 with full-dive capability.
It will be a while before I need to make that desision, since I'll be working on the T-class and it's operating torpedos, also. Just planning ahead to determine what's available. :)
I found out the Nautilus kit will have the dive-planes molded into side-keels. Doesn't come with functional DPs, which is the way the display version is made. So they will need to be cut out and DPs fabricated.
Which is a good thing since I planed to make major modifications to them anyway and they can be made of a strong material, mounted the way I want.
I'll probable build it without DPs behind prop, to test the effectiveness of my shaft relocation mods. Then if there's still not enough pitch control, I'll add them.
Another item of concern on the Nautilus is that strange Propeller?
I know that design can't be efficient, but it will be large, so maybe it will work okay to push it at a scale speed.
I want it to be similar to original in appearance but I may have to stick on a 7 bladed Symitar prop instead. :D LOL :D
Click Pic:
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