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jeep4grog · 02-08-2009, 11:00 AM

It's OK Dave I have caps I can install. I just wanted to check first. Some of the newer motors have them installed internally now and I didn�t want to double up.

I finished the shaft struts yesterday. It was a real interesting project...

I tried to solder these together, but couldn't get the solder to stay or flow. That K&S brass wouldn�t let it stick? Acid cleaning and/or sanding the parts didn�t help either. I tried brazing, but that was too hot for the thin brass and it kept collapsing and changing shape, next was some aluminum welding rod, that was a mess too. It wouldn't flow well, so I gave up and used JB Weld and that worked. Leanred a few thrings....

Good thing this stuff comes in 12" lengths. Gave me lots of material to practice with.

These are straight and the shaft rotates freely in it. All I need to do is give them a little grinding to finish them off. I think they will look pretty much like the originals once installed and painted.

Attached Files

He Who Shall Not Be Named · 02-07-2009, 10:12 PM

Originally posted by junglelord

I believe that surpressor capacitors are always needed on motors.
I will let Mr Merriman correct me if thats wrong.
I was told that anyway.

Indeed they should. If the gent whe has a SubDriver without them would give me his address I'll get two sets of cap's off to him. Sorry about that.

David,

junglelord · 02-07-2009, 09:54 PM

I believe that surpressor capacitors are always needed on motors.
I will let Mr Merriman correct me if thats wrong.
I was told that anyway.

jeep4grog · 02-07-2009, 01:08 PM

I am building the shaft struts so while waiting for the epoxy to dry, I was beginning the install of the ESC's and stuff in the Subdriver.

I noticed that there are no capacitors on the motors. Do I need to add them or are they installed in the motors?

Thanks!

jeep4grog · 01-25-2009, 08:04 AM

I am trying to see if I can fit 2 ESC's, 3 additional servos, an 8 channel receiver, and a SubTech SES-3 switch in the Subdriver. It looks like it will all fit, but it will be tight. I am planning on having independent control of the motors. Once it is all laid out and the wiring figured out, I will take pictures.

I am also working on the shaft struts. I have to pick up some 5/16� brass tubing today to start assembling them. I will solder brass struts to the tube, put oil impregnated brass bushings in the tube to support the shafts and they should look and work like the real thing.

Pictures will added be as soon as all the parts are assembled and the real build begins�

Deep Diver · 01-24-2009, 04:30 AM

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Originally posted by jeep4grog

Since the Subdriver is on it�s way. I guess it�s time to start the build thread�

I started this last year just before my stroke and wasn�t all that successful in building the do it yourself WTC as I wished. So, after listening to some sound advice from a friend in the Cleveland Boat Club, I ordered Dave�s masterpiece Sub-Driver.

I looked into the Gato kit for the bow plane riser, but the Brits do it different (see Pic). I want to try an match that look and function.

I have some damaged wash needles from a Bosch Ampoule washer from work. I think they look a lot like the original snorkel mast on the p class boats. It is hollow and 316L-SS so should last a long time. I will use the pump I already have. It�s a Gast, 10DC diaphragm pump and should work well for the snort. Pics here too.

I have a Robbe F-14 Navy controller so I think I have enough channels to do all I want�

Good Day
There is a good diaogarm in a book on the "A" class I do think it is called "The Alliance" on the workings of the bow planes, the Sub museum in Gosport U.K may have a copy, or if you e-mail them they may just send you the detail that you require.:)