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Gato hull spread affter cutting top from bottom.

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  • Gato hull spread affter cutting top from bottom.

    I have cut the upper hull from the lower as the Dvd showed. It came out good. After gluing the inner hull supports and the upper deck attachments as shown, there's an overlapping in the center area. The upper hull/deck overlaps the lower hull about 1/16" on both sides. The bow and stern are true on. Is this normal ? Whats the best way to correct it? I do have a few ideas but would like some expert feed back.

    Thax

  • #2
    Yes. Likely your two major hull halves (the center) were bowed a bit and it took some creative clamping efforts on your part to hold the keel edges together as you glued them. This stressed the hull. That stress relieved when you separated the upper from the lower half of the hull, that relief evidenced as the bowing out of the upper hull half as compared to the lower. No big deal.

    You may want to make one or more auxiliary upper hull frames -- each sized to pull a specific portion of hull inboard, their function to pull the upper hull edges into alignment with the edges of the lower hull. However, in later model assemblies, I've found these to be redundant... over-kill.

    Insert an array of one-inch long, .030" thick styrene sheet indexing tabs, each one about a half-inch tall within the upper hull, each tab projecting one-quarter inch down past the edge of the upper hull. The lower portions of the tabs will come into contact with the inside surface of the lower hull, forcing the upper hull to bend inboard, into alignment with the lower hulls edge when assembled.

    I know at this point you're cursing me for talking you into splitting the hull like this. But, believe me, down the road, while your accessing the internals at the field, you'll thank me for all the room you have in there to get your fat fingers into things complicated, delicate, and scary.

    Piece of cake.


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    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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    • #3
      I will say that when I build the next Gato, I will cut down the middle as David suggested. I initially was put off by the extra set of issues that came with it (and I am pleased with what I did do), but fat fingers gets frustrated trying to put the drive shafts on and hunting for that piece that falls in. Your doing good and stick to it. Follow David's advice!
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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      • #4
        guy just wondering what is the right tool to use to seperate this kato hull ,is there a easier way to do without damage the hull ? thx

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        • #5
          You can't cut the hull unless you cut the hull. Stop agonizing over the process and get to it! Cut-off wheel, saw wheel, I don't care. Get to it! High RPM, low feed rate. You'll do fine!

          If not, what do I care ... ain't my expensive model kit!

          David

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          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

          Comment


          • #6
            yes sir i will get go and split her up :wink: thx for the great picture david ,what is the metal glaze for ? was it like a filler to smooth the edge out ?
            Last edited by scaleship; 09-23-2012, 01:09 AM.

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            • #7
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              • #8
                Let me know if you sang "The first cut is the deepest, baby I know" when you begin the cutting. You are going to be glad you did this. I was stubborn and opened mine differently. It looked nice too, but is tough to get things in or out. Your doing the right thing! Keep up the good work!
                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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                • #9
                  Yeah! ... what Tom just said!

                  You will loose material along the cut-line, it's called 'kerf' You have to re-build that lost material. I do it with CA and baking soda, and smooth it out with a two-part polyester based filler, like Metal Glaze. That's what that's all about.

                  Oh, and good work on that surface gauge/waterline marking tool. You're getting it.

                  David
                  "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    good morning all the captain 7.00 am backed up the vehicle from the garage and start cutting .One side is done and will continue after work ! ya i know i a bit slow it took me 45 minutes per side .I did it with very fine saw

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                    • #11
                      Careful is good. You using a razor saw? If so, the kerf is small and you may not need to resort to the CA-baking soda trick.

                      Keep at it, I want this running by this time tomorrow!

                      David
                      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                        Careful is good. You using a razor saw? If so, the kerf is small and you may not need to resort to the CA-baking soda trick.

                        Keep at it, I want this running by this time tomorrow!

                        David
                        one side has done line is not perfertly straight but very fine line ,but than i sand it straight and have to fill the kerf a bit .will update photo later .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by scaleship View Post
                          one side has done line is not perfertly straight but very fine line ,but than i sand it straight and have to fill the kerf a bit .will update photo later .
                          Understood. Now, that was not the horror show you imagined, was it?

                          David
                          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                          Comment

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