1/72 Virginia Class USS South Dakota

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  • Timothy L
    replied
    I’ll copy snd paste the blocked post here. Maybe that will work;

    Musings from the trudging neophyte are posted here only for one reason - to possibly help others who will not ask questions because the incredible expertise on this forum might seem intimidating and questions might feel embarrassing.
    Sharing the occasional foibles of a sub-rank rc sub newbie might encourage you. As a “quasi build log” anything I post here is likely of no interest to the supreme craftsman who so wonderfully infuse their knowledge into this forum LOL!
    BUT my fellow (likely quiet) neophytes here are a few quick thoughts on things I’ve learned so far:

    1) if you buy a printed hull make absolutely sure you know how much sanding and prep work you’re getting into. There are trade-offs between having details cleanly and accurately portrayed vrs strength. I chose to focus on strength and therefore I’m working with an ABS/FG (plastic with bits of fiberglass thrown in). Mucho sanding.

    2) if you’re looking for answers on this forum or the Internet at large, you will have to do a little bit of work. Take the time to learn how to search the forums, search Dive Tribe sessions etc. Giving yourself the tools to find answers is no different than getting the right tools to do a job.
    a) Sometimes those answers are like jumping down the rabbit hole because they simply lead to more questions. And that can get confusing. This is definitely a hobby where a basement tinkerer newcomer may very well suffer from “ You don’t know what you don’t know” conundrum.
    b) and that’s about the point where you might want to ask David Merriman a question. Despite his reputation for being a softhearted mush-mellow, he’s an unbelievable crafts person with a knowledge base that I doubt will ever be duplicated. As I mentioned in an earlier post you might be well advised to daily follow his Today’s Work posts.

    3) PE (photo etch): I was dreading using photo parts when I started on this project. I got over that hurdle - this is what I learned; 1) make sure you cut the PE parts out on a rock hard surface 2) anneal parts that will fit to a curved surface (heat it up and then cool it - lots if videos on it) 3) make your own application tips when using CA glue (I sharpen a 1//16” sprue and use it with thin CA). 4) depends on your view towards detail, but in my opinion don’t sweat the really tiny stuff that you can barely see - (2 feet away from you no one will see it).

    4) Fitting the upper hull to the lower hull. If you’re used to building surface models, this is a whole new focal point that you may never have given a second thought to! However, it is super important! This is something that’s not too difficult to research on the forum - BUT here’s the thing: for me, doing it was a challenge LOL. There are two things going on. First, you want the upper hull removal to be a trouble free “2 second” procedure. Second, you want a really clean seam between the hull sections. I experimented with several of the suggested methods. How you approach it will probably vary depending on the type of sub that you are building. For this hull only a small bolt in the stern needs to be removed to lift off the upper hull. After trying several methods I found that the Vaseline / Gold Evercoat filler combo worked best. You MUST use thin CA to harden the filler as a last step.

    5) Turning radius: Larger, longer subs have very poor turning radii. This should be part of your decision on what sub you want to build. If you really love the looks of the larger nuclear subs, Make sure you understand what its operating characteristics will be and whether or not you want to change those characteristics during your building process.

    Well, that was a lot of jabbering. The point for sharing these rather simple thoughts is that they might help somebody who’s sitting there scratching their head like me. Like me, you may not be somebody that’s fond of reading instructions and just want to try everything your own way. I don’t advise that though. This is a different kind of hobby and you need the experts and need to expect you will run into things that are not common to any other RC hobby! I hope my musings will be of help. As I trudge along with this most enjoyable model I’ll try to share bits of my experience that might be of worth.

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    You crack me up David LOL - and thank you for the positive thoughts. I’ll see how it goes with getting posts unlocked. I’m not going anywhere LOL - just trying to be practical with my time compadre ;-)

    PS “pig pile”???? Good one!

    Last edited by Timothy L; 06-05-2026, 04:56 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Timothy L

    For me the longer posts take time to write - but it appears that they have a relatively good chance of not being approved from my experience. And once they’re unapproved they don’t seem to get approved later on. And truth be told, what I’m posting is likely not of great benefit to anyone. For those reasons I think I am going to curtail this thread. However, if anyone is curious about this particular project I am more than happy to answer any questions posted here. The goal was initially to finish the project by the end of July - but you know how life goes LOL - Continually having to adjust the schedule :-)
    Hell no, Tim. Send a shot through Bob's wheel-house -- tell him the problem! Just as soon as he gets his feet under him he'll fix the problem.

    Keep posting you bum! As you suggested your personal screeds here about the joys and troubles of getting into this hobby will do much to help guys in the same boat as you; your words give heart to the 'new guys' experiencing the same problems as you. The point is, you share the problems AND the fixes. Good stuff.

    Don't be a frig'n quitter!... get back in that ring and keep punching! More people read -- and profit from -- your accounts here on the Nautilusdrydocks pig-pile than you suppose!

    DON'T MAKE ME COME OVER THERE!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    Originally posted by CollectiveBorg

    It's strange that I saw it before, but now I don't. I don't have the rights as an administrator of this forum. I know a little about how vBulletin forums work. A regular user, which I am, shouldn't see this.
    For me the longer posts take time to write - but it appears that they have a relatively good chance of not being approved from my experience. And once they’re unapproved they don’t seem to get approved later on. And truth be told, what I’m posting is likely not of great benefit to anyone. For those reasons I think I am going to curtail this thread. However, if anyone is curious about this particular project I am more than happy to answer any questions posted here. The goal was initially to finish the project by the end of July - but you know how life goes LOL - Continually having to adjust the schedule :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    Originally posted by CollectiveBorg
    By the way, I admire your workshop and your work! I wish you good luck and creative success in your project!
    Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • CollectiveBorg
    replied
    By the way, I admire your workshop and your work! I wish you good luck and creative success in your project!

    Leave a comment:


  • CollectiveBorg
    replied
    Originally posted by Timothy L
    This is kind of weird. The post you just mentioned with the two pictures of a sail was never “unapproved”. But you are correct the long one after that from this afternoon is showing up in pink and marked as unapproved. Strange. Thanks for the feedback by the way.
    It's strange that I saw it before, but now I don't. I don't have the rights as an administrator of this forum. I know a little about how vBulletin forums work. A regular user, which I am, shouldn't see this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    This is kind of weird. The post you just mentioned with the two pictures of a sail was never “unapproved”. But you are correct the long one after that from this afternoon is showing up in pink and marked as unapproved. Strange. Thanks for the feedback by the way.

    Leave a comment:


  • CollectiveBorg
    replied
    Originally posted by Timothy L
    More from the neophyte trudging among giants……the sail is now primed and will be set aside while I finish upper hull details and prime it. I am pleased with the sail.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7678.jpg
Views:	168
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	195510

    As I mentioned, I am not a rivet counter, but I thought my fellow neophytes might like this photo of a Virginia Class sail. I have opted not to attempt the stressed surface. I really like this photo though!
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7676.jpg
Views:	190
Size:	55.1 KB
ID:	195509


    I saw a post here with a "disapproved" banner. I even tried clicking it, but it wasn't active. The entire post was highlighted in red; it was text-heavy and long. Am I right?

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    Musings from the trudging neophyte are posted here only for one reason - to possibly help others who will not ask questions because the incredible expertise on this forum might seem intimidating and questions might feel embarrassing.
    Sharing the occasional foibles of a sub-rank rc sub newbie might encourage you. As a “quasi build log” anything I post here is likely of no interest to the supreme craftsman who so wonderfully infuse their knowledge into this forum LOL!
    BUT fellow, likely quiet, neophytes here are a few quick thoughts on things I’ve learned so far:

    1) if you buy a printed hull make absolutely sure you know how much sanding and prep work you’re getting into. There are trade-offs between having details cleanly and accurately portrayed vrs strength. I chose to focus on strength and therefore I’m working with an ABS/FG (plastic with bits of fiberglass thrown in). Mucho sanding.

    2) if you’re looking for answers on this forum or the Internet at large, you will have to do a little bit of work. Take the time to learn how to search the forums, search Dive Tribe sessions etc. Giving yourself the tools to find answers is no different than getting the right tools to do a job.
    a) Sometimes those answers are like jumping down the rabbit hole because they simply lead to more questions. And that can get confusing. This is definitely a hobby where a basement tinkerer newcomer may very well suffer from “ You don’t know what you don’t know” conundrum.
    b) and that’s about the point where you might want to ask David Merriman a question. Despite his reputation for being a softhearted mush-mellow, he’s an unbelievable crafts person with a knowledge base that I doubt will ever be duplicated. As I mentioned in an earlier post you might be well advised to daily follow his Today’s Work posts.

    3) PE (photo etch): I was dreading using photo parts when I started on this project. I got over that hurdle - this is what I learned; 1) make sure you cut the PE parts out on a rock hard surface 2) anneal parts that will fit to a curved surface (heat it up and then cool it - lots if videos on it) 3) make your own application tips when using CA glue (I sharpen a 1//16” sprue and use it with thin CA). 4) depends on your view towards detail, but in my opinion don’t sweat the really tiny stuff that you can barely see - (2 feet away from you no one will see it).

    4) Fitting the upper hull to the lower hull. If you’re used to building surface models, this is a whole new focal point that you may never have given a second thought to! However, it is super important! This is something that’s not too difficult to research on the forum - BUT here’s the thing: for me, doing it was a ***** LOL. There are things going on. First, you want the upper hull removal to be a trouble free 2 second procedure. Second, you want a really clean seam between the hull sections. I experimented with several of the suggested methods. How you approach it will probably vary depending on the type of sub that you are building. For this hull only a small bolt in the stern needs to be removed to lift off the upper hull. After trying several methods I found that the Vaseline / Gold Evercoat filler combo worked best. You MUST use thin CA to harden the filler as a last step.

    5) Turning radius: Larger, longer subs have very poor turning radii. This should be part of your decision on what sub you want to build. If you really love the looks of the larger nuclear subs, Make sure you understand what its operating characteristics will be and whether or not you want to change those characteristics during your building process.

    Well, that was a lot of jabbering. The point for sharing these rather simple thoughts is that they might help somebody who’s sitting there scratching their head like me. Like me, you may not be somebody that’s fond of reading instructions and just want to try everything your own way. I don’t advise that though. This is a different kind of hobby and you need the experts and need to expect you will run into things that are not common to any other RC hobby! I hope my musings will be of help. As I trudge along with this most enjoyable model I’ll try to share bits of my experience that might be of worth.

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    More from the neophyte trudging among giants……the sail is now primed and will be set aside while I finish upper hull details and prime it. I am pleased with the sail.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7678.jpg
Views:	168
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	195510

    As I mentioned, I am not a rivet counter, but I thought my fellow neophytes might like this photo of a Virginia Class sail. I have opted not to attempt the stressed surface. I really like this photo though!
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7676.jpg
Views:	190
Size:	55.1 KB
ID:	195509



    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    The ABS/FG? This stuff is tough (the pro) but you really need to sand, sand, sand (the con). The striations are so great that I slapped a brush coat of acrylic primer on the upper hull before doing anything - and sanded the crap out of it. The lower hull will be approached the same way. This way I can “see” what I am up against before the “real” priming and sanding starts. I used 3 of the resin masts and fabricated 3 out of brass. Not super detailed - but fits in my “on the water practical scale” viewpoint. Sail is esily removed - just two screws. So jazzed it is beginning to look like a submarine! Now for coffee and off to teaching - I’m outa here for the day LOL.
    Last edited by Timothy L; 05-20-2026, 03:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Timothy L
    The neophyte happily trudges along among giants…… learning lots…….it’s actually beginning to look like a submarine
    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_7643-compressed.jpg Views:	0 Size:	73.4 KB ID:	195313
    Excellent prep work on the VIRGINIA so far. So glad that your deferring heavy priming and paint till the little **** is done... and done right.

    Yeah... r/c submarines are new to you, but you evidence above averate skills you obviously developed down other paths of the r/c vehicle hobby.

    All your humble-pie bull-**** ain't fool'n me, Tim: You come at this game loaded for bear. A couple of years and you'll be teaching me new things.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Timothy L
    replied
    The neophyte happily trudges along among giants…… learning lots…….it’s actually beginning to look like a submarine
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7643-compressed.jpg Views:	0 Size:	73.4 KB ID:	195313

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by vital.spark
    Now you want me to start tearing up? Ellie radiated and was so so special!!
    Stop blubbering, you old softy. Get back to work! (and... yes, yes she was very special; much more than a good set of hands in the shop).

    Leave a comment:

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