Welcome to our forums. For the best in R/C submarine kits, components and accessories, be sure to visit the Nautilus Drydocks
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Team, does anyone know what the circit board is? I now know that the one part is the pitch keeper, and I believe the main circuit board controls the pumps. But what is the small circuit board on the left side? And what is the voltage of the board? 6 or 12 volts? Anyone got some original diagrams? The bottom of the circuit board lists it as a V 1.1 "touchpumpensteuerumg" which is loosely translated to touch pump.
Team, does anyone know what the circit board is? I now know that the one part is the pitch keeper, and I believe the main circuit board controls the pumps. But what is the small circuit board on the left side? And what is the voltage of the board? 6 or 12 volts? Anyone got some original diagrams? The bottom of the circuit board lists it as a V 1.1 "touchpumpensteuerumg" which is loosely translated to touch pump.
Can you post a picture of the whole submarine? Not just pictures of rust and stuff, I mean the whole boat. The present electronics are irrelevant because they’re junk. Start from scratch. Did you ever get the one you posted about three years ago going?
The part indicated by the red arrow is a TAES board. The black component with a spigot is a pressure sensor that monitors the static water pressure, and keeps the boat at a certain depth (within a tolerance) by shuttling the tanks from fill to empty to make the boat heavier or lighter as required. As fresh water only varies by less than 1% depending upon temperature, the amount of adjustment required is small.
I think Engel have discontinued it now. I believe you can remove it and use the board as a simple switcher- which is TAE.
Subculture,
Thanks for the update d info. I did email Engel and he sent me the main board and I believe the smaller boards instruction sheets. Between the two I will get something set up to test it all.
Das Boot, the answer is no. I have been collecting diver boxes and parts for the model to have a new internal dive system but its been a long haul. I did take the net cutter off, its not a U-Boat. Also, a lot of the deck bits and parts and such were popping off as I handled the model. The glue was very brittle. So, she's stripped down. It has new prop shafts and props from Harbor model since the originals were seized up. I think they were brass shafts and a plastic bushing. The new boat has the same thing, brass shafts that were seized up. Do they need grease or something? I would think so. I have been slowly working on her conning tower, which is now a covered wagon style. My trouble with the model is how to get the motors and drive system mounted into the dive box. There is an issue with my mechanical engineering skills and actually getting the right parts. The motor shaft is larger than the WTC seal for the shafts that I have. I did locate shaft extension pieces that should work but haven't been working on it. I need to find a good way to mount the motors into the diver box. I have picked up the parts to make the seals and can begin work on that part. I'll admit, I real good at taking them apart and slow at putting them back together. I did however get a 1/72 Skipjack running this year and just finished my Disney Nautilus with lights. It is, by necessity, a surface runner. But with an outrunner motor it moves out!
Here are some of the requested photos of the newer Gato model. I also included some photos of the DStephan 3D printed tower and guns (white and grey). I ordered the 3D tower before I got my 2nd Gato with a tower. In one photo you can compare the three towers. The original (circa 1980s?) that I began to modify to the covered wagon style and then the Engel resin tower and the 3d printed tower.
Comment