GATO! (It has begun)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

3) Yes. bore those holes out bit looser, a .063" bit if you have it. If not, take a length of that brass wire, chuck it up in the drill, file the tip to a point and a flat on the side (at the tip ... duh!) and use that as a boring bit. The burr raised as you ground the flat will extend enough to twist away a non-interference bore for the 1/16" wire.

I are smart! Me Torpedoman!

4) No. You can slap that dude on any time.

David

[matthewnimmo]

LOL!

1) Awesome will do:)
2) K, I will wait on this:)
3) derrr...yeah that's what i had in my head, but typed the wrong thing. I noticed that those shafts (the resin ones) have a smaller diameter than the 1/16" drilled ones I produced....so obviously I need to redrill those ... or am i making those pins too big?
4) Ok ... oh crap that brings up another questions then about the stern....does all of that need to be in place (rudder, planes, bell crank, etc,etc) before i do the final bond to the hull?

Thanks again super Dave!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Awesome, ok, so now i'm to the point of cutting out the superstructure and about ready to bond the stern and bow; but i do have a few questions.

1) the bow planes that i made my pin holes (1/16") that's where my 1/16 brass rod that i need to purchase comes in correct? Or was that a part or parts of the kit that i might have missed somewhere?
2) Before attaching the bow, do i need to bond the bow planes/linkage/mechanizm in place before doing so? In the video Dave is shown just tack welding the part in place ... but suggested to leave it loose just incase of adjustments.
3) So, i noticed that i have two pairs of bow plane struts (the first being the ones supplied by the model kit that have the hooks, and the second contained in the conversion kit ... that don't have hooks). Which pair should i use, i already made my holes in the model ones since i didn't think i had the resin pair?
4) Lastly, I noticed that I have (what seems to be) two bell cranks for the bow planes? Is the second a spare or does that go somewhere else ( i just can't think of where at this moment ... even after reviewing all the videos before starting my build). And of course ... related to question number one....does this need to be in place and locked down before bonding to the hull?

Thanks gang!

1) You cheap so-and-so! Come up with your own damned brass wire!

2) You can permanently bond the retract mechanism any time, but I suggest waiting till everything is in place and working as a system before permanently bonding the mechanism into the forward hull. Only with the torque tube in place and hooked up to the tilt-arm will you know if the vertical position of the mechanism is right or not.

3) Not 'struts'. Operating shafts! Use the resin ones because they have the off-set to the bow plane pin foundation needed to translate the planes correctly so they fold up nice and tight when retracted.

4) That other bell-crank goes on the ass-end of the retract mechanism torque tube. You put an iron 'ball' fitting (a Du-Bro product, part of their elbow connector kit) at the outboard end -- it makes up to the interlink magnets off the swing-arm. It's secured with a set-screw so can be move around and adjusted

I have spoken, so let it be written!

[matthewnimmo]

Awesome, ok, so now i'm to the point of cutting out the superstructure and about ready to bond the stern and bow; but i do have a few questions.

1) the bow planes that i made my pin holes (1/16") that's where my 1/16 brass rod that i need to purchase comes in correct? Or was that a part or parts of the kit that i might have missed somewhere?
2) Before attaching the bow, do i need to bond the bow planes/linkage/mechanizm in place before doing so? In the video Dave is shown just tack welding the part in place ... but suggested to leave it loose just incase of adjustments.
3) So, i noticed that i have two pairs of bow plane struts (the first being the ones supplied by the model kit that have the hooks, and the second contained in the conversion kit ... that don't have hooks). Which pair should i use, i already made my holes in the model ones since i didn't think i had the resin pair?
4) Lastly, I noticed that I have (what seems to be) two bell cranks for the bow planes? Is the second a spare or does that go somewhere else ( i just can't think of where at this moment ... even after reviewing all the videos before starting my build). And of course ... related to question number one....does this need to be in place and locked down before bonding to the hull?

Thanks gang!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looking forward: right-hand pitch starboard, left-hand pitch to port.

The phenomena Reckless described is, 'propeller walking'. When looking forward the propeller will produce an athwart ship force that is in the direction the propeller would take if it was on the ground, turning as a wheel. A consequence of the static pressure differential between upper tip and lower tip. That athwart ship force, at the stern, translates to a yawing force on the vehicle. On single or odd-numbered propeller equipped boats (with a common throttle), a good Coxswain will capitalize on the 'walking' effect when in tight situations (like making up to a tight pier slip).

David

[matthewnimmo]

You answered my next question already...."why" lol ... now that makes sense. So if I'm looking at the backend of the sturn which prop goes on which side? is there a good picture somewhere to reference

[Reckless]

yeah the 2 motors spin in opposite directions so the model doesn't torque to one side.. and turns left and right the same


not as appearant in the subs *atleast until you go under I would imagine) .. on my larger 40inch PT boat with both props spinning the same direction... it will carve cornering 1 way .. so hard that the deck nearly submerges (one prop comes outta the water before the deck goes under) ... the other way turning it barely leans and is over twice the turning radius

[vital.spark]

That's correct. Looking at a stern on view, the right hand prop runs clockwise and the left runs counter.

[matthewnimmo]

ok cool....but them having exact opposite pitches is normal right?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No. It's my error. That one prop is a bit too much in diameter. Trim it down. The fix is on my 'to do' list.

David

[matthewnimmo]

Ok...so curious question. I just finished the other side of the stern and i used the same propeller and shaft for fitting the components in place before applying CA. Clearance was perfect.....BUT, when i decided to try both shafts and propellers i noticed that the other propeller now hits the side of the hull?? i'm thinking what is going on. Perhaps this is just my ignorance of these props, but it seems one is slightly larger than the other and they both have exact opposite pitches (even if i turn the other upside down lol) .... is that normal?

Thanks,

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so over the weekend i got a lot more done on the build. I would have had more and would have uploaded these earlier; but i've been pretty sick (still not feeling well). I've managed to acid the white metals, primer them, fill them, sand, acid, primer, fill, etc...etc. Furthermore i've managed to install one side of the stern tubes along with the strut for the propeller shaft ... even after filing/sanding/etc the CA makes it look crappy on the model; but i'm assuming the primer and paint will cover that up nicely:)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's a start

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so reviewing my photos ... i really didn't have a lot to show LOL as most of my time this weekend was dedicated to fixing minor mistakes with the rudder. But, ultimately; I did managed to do the following:

1) prepared both the stern tubes and propeller cones
2) removed the skag piece (and if you noticed I didn't glue the entire piece to one side of the stern before removing. Was easier for me this way (well i say that now lol). Was cut at an angle because i'm retarded and didn't square of the cutline before hand; but it will serve its purpose. Also, if you noticed the build up of CA on part of the skag; well that's because of the mis-alignment i had with the rudder and such....thought it would be brilliant to remove some material from that portion of the skag so the rudder would rub at the angle it was at. Ultimately i had to redrill the holes in the barrings used to support the rudder for better alignment; thus not needing to have that material removed in the first place.

Some interesting notes: I'm a pro at CA and baking soda now ... lol.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Neat! Thanks.

David