Scratch Build Soviet Project 667 BDRM Delta IV SSBN K-18 "Karelia" Scale 1/140

[JHapprich]

Hope i did not double post... now i messed up your building thread, Dave!

[JHapprich]

Some more...

[JHapprich]

Ahh here we go...

[JHapprich]

I try again...

[JHapprich]

Could someone please tell me why two posts do not show up. Marked 'unapproved'. Wrong picture scale?

[JHapprich]

And finally...

[JHapprich]

And some more...

[JHapprich]

And still more...

[JHapprich]

And some more...

[JHapprich]

Hope this helps, too:

[JHapprich]

[trout]

I zoomed in and adjusted brightness to bring out some details. Hope it helps.

[Davidh]

Thanks Jorg,

I got onto a Russian site last night and found some really good details on the flat base under the missile deck. Those cardboard models are impressive
thanks for finding them.


Dave

[JHapprich]

http://www.die-kartonmodellbauer.de/index.php?thread/5868-projekt-667-bdrm-k114-tula-nato-code-delta-iv-wak-nr-3-2017-1-200-in-1-250/&pageNo=1

Though it is a papercard model, it seems quite accurate.however it lacks high detail. There is a good depiction of the scoopes on page 2. The flat section you marked should actually be of the delta iv, right at the bottom of the missile tube section. I have got line drawings of yankee bulkheads not showing this. Also notice the small gab between the main hull and the lower edge of the missile housing.one other thing id like to mention is, i found closeup pictures of the flat deck in front of the sail. That deck does not run level all the way below the sail and the missile comp, but ends under the forward half of the sail. It narrows in towards the circular main hull. Will see i upload the pictures. Nice work,David!
Jörg

[Davidh]

Hello all,

The missile deck has been built however I have had to spend some time using the sliding bevel to check that all the surfaces are consistent and that there is symmetry. This is especially the case with the
front of the deck. The tapering angle as the whole deck moves forward and meets the rear of the fin has to be even and square. Once the deck was straight and even I could apply a coat of resin. After this was applied I sanded it back and gave it a shot of primer to see the inconsistencies and undulations. Then I would take to it again with some filler and sand back further.











After getting the missile compartment complete, I decided to turn my attention to the bow of the boat. I decided that I would start with developing the bow details, mainly the torpedo loading hatches, the Torpedo tube doors, Bow conformal array, and forward vents and hatches. However I placed the bow section on the marking board to get the overall features and alignment down first. l then detached the bow section from the PVC pipe, I started ruling up and marking out the areas where the scribing would need to take place. Once this was done, I took to the Dremel to grind out a small channel that follows the lines of the marking. AS mentioned in previous builds the Bow section is not Renshape. It's too expensive to make an entire bow out for me, so I grind with the Dremel and then fill in with a layer of filler. I cut up a piece of plastic milk bottle and use it as a screeding tool to produce a smooth slightly curved layer of for want of a better term, an extruded layer of filler, slightly overfilled.






Granted its pretty rough initially. This would require a new remarking after the filler had gone down to make sure that the lines were just where they needed to be. The torpedo doors take a little time to get right because they are effectively elliptical so that when seen front on they look round. This can be tricky to get right on a compound curve. The Dremel tool took material off to about 2mm.









Once the filler is dried it is time to hit it with the 230 grit moving to around the 400 grit when the filler gets smooth. I have found that the filler needs an over fill again after this initial sanding back. Once this is dry then a final thorough sanding is needed to bring the filled surface down to level with the rest of the bow. You have to be careful that you don't take off the smooth surface of the resin all around so the sanding to some degree, needs to be strategic. I then take to the surface with 600 grit and up to around 800 maybe 1000. Then remark and line up the details to be etched. Then etch..

This thread has been a bit quiet lately but I need some detective work. After seeing the "investigative muscle" applied to Scott's November I though I could call on some help with details. I am finding it difficult to get photos and details on a very subtle part of the 667. On the very bottom of the hull amidships, is a section of hull probably only 10-15 metres long that has what looks like angled fillets that mean that the underside of the hull is potentially flat? These subtle bulges don't really show very well on the pics I have and I assume are hard to draw because all the drawing I have seen reveal very little. I recently found this pics of what I think is a Yankee or a Delta 1-2 where the hull is cut in half for scrapping. You can see a flat section at the very bottom of the hull, I have circled it in yellow. I think this is it..

Anyone know?......





Also does any one have really good close up pics of the front two Reactor scoops? ... Gantu? I'd really like to have a closer look at the grill arrangement at the front..



Anyway look forward to some pics or ideas. Thanks lads...


David H