If you're going brushless just get a pair of 28mm outrunners and run them direct drive, plenty of torque for turning the relatively small props of that boat.
U Boote in Texas
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The main reason for the belt drive is to drop the shafts down low , but if I can get away with getting them low enough without it I will. The Graupner motors are very low RPM , so I'm not worried about the reduction so much. I plan to run 11 volts and want a long run time , so the motor battery combo is critical. I like to run for many hours once I reach the pond..... Until I get the motors in the tech rack and start playing with the geometry, I just don't know. Motors are on order!Comment
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Progress! Now that school is closed for winter break, I expect to make great progress on this build. Hull bracing is going in, though I will depart from kit instructions in a few key areas. The idea is to be able to slide the entire WTC out of the hull. Also I will be able to detach the aft hull section from the WTC. More pics soon.Comment
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I'm reviving this thread! The XXIII was complete and then smashed by a cat (knocked off shelf) so needs repair. I am back on the Type VII with the arrival of bayonet rings from Engle Modellbau and I just ordered a pair of Speed 500 brushless motors. On the motors It seems the prevailing wisdom is for direct drive, so that is what we will do. Pic's to follow... BTW the long hiatus was restoration of a Newport 12 meter sailboat...Comment
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She's coming along good now. Bayonet rings installed and fit perfect. The boat can come apart in 5 major assemblies; The WTC can slide out of the forward hull, tech rack slides out of WTC sealed by bayonet rings, stern section held to aft WTC endcap by 4 studs and 4 thumb nuts, Tower held by 1 stud and wingnut, and forward hatch under bow planes to access bow planes linkage. So great access to all parts of the boat!Comment
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