Metal Holland Update

[redlite]

I still needed to add flotation after the Sub Competition ended. I used some closed cell foam designed for the marine environment. I've never been happy with the blue foam that I've been using for years. It's not really designed for submersion and as it gets older, the negative properties magnify. Problem solved with this stuff, as it is more flexible and can be easily conformed to any shape. My Holland is all compound curves, so this was a great test vehicle. I needed to get the foam tight up against the top inside of the hull due to lack of usable space in this tiny model. Layers were glued with 3M 4200 Marine Adhesive, great stuff, though a bit expensive and messy.

I also wanted to add an access hatch to the bottom of the WTC to aid in charging and to turn the model on or off without a major disassembly of the model every time. I used a hole saw mounted in a drill press to cut the proper saddle on the extension. The hatch protrudes a bit out the bottom of the hull through a hole drilled in the sheet metal.

One ounce lead weights were soldered to the bottom inside of the hull once their proper position was determined. Hole for access hatch can be seen next to lead weights.

A video will soon be made of this boat underway.......Joe

[redlite]

Here are some metal subs from around the world. All are operational but none really work very well. A working model that can dive and surface without direct control (RC) is most difficult, so it's not surprising that most are just cool junk. That was the main reason for making the Holland, I wanted a model that really worked.

I've included a couple of shots of some spring drive units. I ended up using a Marx unit, which has a good spring and are easy to find and cheap. The main drive gear is a bit thin, unlike European units, so they are apt to strip teeth off if pushed to far. The Marx unit is shown by itself, with the prop shaft coming off to the side on top.

Also shown are a few friction drive floor toys that are begging to go swimming...

[redlite]

A few more subs from different countries and era's. Again, none really work very well, but are still fun to fiddle with. The large Atomic Skate is designed as a surface runner only, runs on two D cells, has flashing red and green lights that as a whole, is very satisfying when underway. If it didn't work so well, it would make a great RC candidate as it has more room than most. I put my sub in the photo line-up for size comparison, being 16 inches tip to tip.

The two Wolverine's shown are from two different time periods. The early bottom blue one has two turned brass cannon, net cutter, lead ballast and railings. As the years went by, the sub would be manufactured with less frills, eventually by the late 50's it would have nothing on the decks, except for the conning tower.

[redlite]

First run wasn't as smooth as I like, not enough lead ballast and the prop is too big. I used the prop I made for the windup motor, which has large paddle blades to make up for the low RPM. The prop should be cut down to a more realistic paddle size and that may take care of some of the torque roll. Another half ounce or so of lead ballast will tame it a bit also. But other than that, I'm really happy with the system these guys came up with. It only takes a couple of minutes to completely disassemble the model and get to the electronics. A little more work and I should have a new submarine.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

An easier alternative to cutting down the blade area is to twist the blades to reduce the pitch. Do that then test

And thanks for the nice words. POST PICTURES, DAMIT!

David,

[redlite]

I didn't see your post until after the job was done, that would certainly have been easier. I took the sub (the wind-up version)to the SF Bay sub regatta earlier this fall and one of the constructive criticisms it received was that the prop was out of scale. It needed changing, so no foul. I didn't run the sub because I forgot to bring swim wear, thinking a recovery diver would be present. It was cold, windy and raining on that day and I couldn't talk some of the younger folks present to go in after it if it ran into trouble. Next time I'll have my own recovery gear

[redlite]

Not sure why my last couple posts scattered the attached photos...I must of Gomered something....this set of photos shows final configuration. The picture that has the lineup of four subs in various stages of completion are the RC version (grey, finished), windup (black, also finished) and two unfinished windups. A couple of shots of the access hatch exiting the keel, which by the way, is very convenient, completes this series.

[redlite]

The second attempt was much better. This model only needed two trips to the 'pond' to become operational. The 1.25" SD worked the first time out and adjustments were made to the propeller and weight...easiest model yet. Torque roll is gone and the extra lead ballast solved the dive problem. Under water, it'll go anywhere you point it. At more than scale submerged speeds is guilty fun. On the surface, left turns are still a bit tough. The new foam is better than expected, but time will tell how it will hold out with usage. I noticed the 1.25" SD fits nicely inside the Revell 1:180 Lionfish, a perfect home-size pool model.

Joe

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Wonderful, wonderful stuff here, Joe. You simply have to get some video of this little beast out. What's your run time and what size battery is that?

David,

[redlite]

Thank you, David, likewise. The batt is a 850mAh 2S/7.4v 25C Hyp. Test time has been about 15 minutes each outing and when I recharged the batt, it accepted about 20 percent of its capacity. I'm guessing about an hour, probably more when we push it on the next test. We'll get some video when the weather breaks for sure.

Joe