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The hull numbers came from Woodland dry transferres. I yellowed them myself because they are below the waterline. Might have gone overboard - a bit. I really enjoyed making that boat; its a joy to put together something that so well made. Thanks.
The hull numbers came from Woodland dry transferres. I yellowed them myself because they are below the waterline. Might have gone overboard - a bit. I really enjoyed making that boat; its a joy to put together something that so well made. Thanks.
Duh. Sorry. I read hull and couldn't get my mind above the waterline! Yep, those old numbers came from a SU-25 and were originally outline numbers before I filled them in with cream paint. They are a bit horrible, I agree.
Duh. Sorry. I read hull and couldn't get my mind above the waterline! Yep, those old numbers came from a SU-25 and were originally outline numbers before I filled them in with cream paint. They are a bit horrible, I agree.
LOL. Though, you have about that size on that sheet of dry-transfers, right?
And .... though it physically hurts me to say so ... that's an excellent job you did on that kit: well done sir. You're going to love how this beast handles in the water. Dave Manley, the originator of this excellent kit, got it right!
Nice Job on your Blueback, I'm building one also. I'm at the point of putting the tail cone together, is there some trick to getting the control rods connected to the yokes in the tail section after it has been put together, other than a lot of patients?
Well done Ernie. Its a great boat to build and to run. The only thing that you have to do is to ensure that whatever tool you are using to tightern the grub screws in the rear yolks will fit through these two holes.
Loosen the screws, retract the plane operating shafts a bit and let the yolks fall out (remembering their orientation). Then thread the control rod "Z" ends through the yolk horns (gently - they are a thight fit to prevent slop in the control system). Replace the yolks, reinsert the operating shafts and tighten to a snug fit. DON'T overthighten the grub screws - this is white metal not titanium.
[QUOTE=HardRock;n113793]Well done Ernie. Its a great boat to build and to run. The only thing that you have to do is to ensure that whatever tool you are using to tightern the grub screws in the rear yolks will fit through these two holes.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n113794[/ATTACH]
Loosen the screws, retract the plane operating shafts a bit and let the yolks fall out (remembering their orientation). Then thread the control rod "Z" ends through the yolk horns (gently - they are a thight fit to prevent slop in the control system). Replace the yolks, reinsert the operating shafts and tighten to a snug fit. DON'T overthighten the grub screws - this is white metal not titanium.[/QUOT
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n113230[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]n113231[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]n113232[/ATTACH]Uthats...utats...utats...that's all folks. All done and finished and heading for the pond.
Look at all the storage bins he has on the wall. LOOK...........Hes organized!
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
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