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Snort Installation
I can't seem to find any info on the snort system for my Gato sub. I get the idea in principle but a few words and pics would be a great asset. Any chance DM3 might have this somewhere already?:wink:
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This rather long shot of the 'new' GATO SubDriver (a tighter packaging of the devices within the after dry space permits a 2.5" shortening of the cylinder length). You can just make out the two induction-discharge nipples that penetrate the motor bulkhead. The LPB inside moves the air from the induction inlet (in the conning tower fairwater) and pumps it atop and into the ballast tank to blow the ballast tank dry.
Though the below SD is for the SEAWOLF, the arrangement of the LPB plumbing is pretty much the same as used on the GATO's SD. Below are the three elements that go inside the after dry compartment: the LPB with attached MPC (electronic motor controller), and two short lengths of flexible hose that connect between the forward nipples of the motor bulkhead and the pump. The three longer lengths of flexible hose fit between the three external LPB manifolds. The manifold on the motor bulkhead orients the nipples so they point aft. The middle nipple dumps the discharge air into the ballast tank and passes on the induction flexible hose to the forward manifold where a short length of vertical flexible hose pokes up and into the conning tower fairwater, where -- when the fairwater is broached -- air is sucked into the induction inlet.
Attached FilesWho is John Galt? -
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Hi David, thanks for the quick response. As this is my first build, I would really appreciate more of a step by step approach if possible, including wiring and placement of the pump etc. similar to your DVD's of the Gato build. I'm in no hurry, I just wanted to get this figured out in advance. Thanks again.Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 10-19-2010, 12:43 PM.Comment
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Fair enough:
1. Where is the pump physically located in the WTC?
2. How is the pump connected to all the fittings - piping schematic if possible?
3. How are all the hoses connected outside the WTC and where do they run?
4. Can you describe the operation of the system so I will know what it should/should not do when setting it up?
Thanks again David.
JimComment
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Jim,
Mike had me taking some catalog shots this evening. That was a good time, while the shop was rigged for photography, to address your above questions with a well illustrated text by taking the below shots.
The LPB motor-pump unit is located in the bottom of the after dry space, right under the servos. The pictures shows the mini-sized LPB pump-motor unit -- I've found this to be more than adequate for use in the GATO SubDriver. It takes about a minute for the little pump to completely empty the ballast tank.
See the motor-pump unit within the cylinder? You can just make out the two internal hoses leading from the pumps suction-discharge nipples, aft, and up where they meet (out of shot) the inboard nipples that pass through the motor bulkhead to communicate with the external plumbing.
The external plumbing starts at the two nipples, U-shaped on this particular SubDriver, that come out of the motor bulkhead. The two external hoses, one for induction air, the other for discharge air, run between the motor bulkhead nipples and the forward manifold block. At the forward end of the two flexible hoses is a single cast resin manifold glued atop the ballast tank. It's at that manifold that induction air comes into the induction hose from inside the fairwater. Also ported within that manifold is the path where discharge air from the pump is routed into the ballast tank, through a hole drilled atop the ballast tank that matches the discharge port at the base of the manifold.
Note the induction hose inlet that is oriented vertically. The upper end fits within the upper portion of the conning-tower fairwater. You broach the boat, getting the fairwater into the air, turn on the LPB, and you start taking surface air, compressing it, and shoving it into the ballast tank to displace the water within, surfacing the boat.
You operate the LPB through a toggle-switch on the transmitter, I use channel-5. You should not run the pump unless you intend to pump air into the ballast tank to empty it. And that won't happen unless the conning-tower fairwater is above water. Now, don't sweat it, if you run the pump with the induction underwater, no big deal. The pump can handle the water without going ballistic, but its motors current draw will go way up.
Oh, one other thing: the mini-LPB motor is wound for 6-7 volts. So if you're using a 11.1-volt battery, stick a 22 Ohm resistors in series with one of the pump motor controllers power wires -- you don't want to hit that motor with high voltage!
OK, operating instructions: You're underwater and you want to surface the boat. Ahead 1/3, full rise on the bow planes, full rise on the stern planes. As soon as the conning-tower fairwater broaches the surface hit the LPB toggle-switch. Ease off on the planes as the deck comes out of the water. Retract the bow planes. Secure the low pressure blow once the boats floats to the designed surface trim waterline -- about one minutes time from when the boat broached.
Don't forget to secure the LPB once the ballast tanks empty!
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Who is John Galt?Comment
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The first time I started to use this system, which works very well by the way, I would forget to secure, i.e. turn off the SNORT pump. When I would try to dive again I'd be standing there wondering why the damn boat wouldn't dive. After a few full Homer Simpson "D'oh!!" moments I switched the SNORT pump assignment on my transmitter to a spring loaded toggle switch, you know the ones where you have to hold the switch on or else the spring turns the switch off. Problem (the one between my ears) solved.
I may be old but I am slow...
DanBorn in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
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Hi David:
That was quick. Thanks again for your help. This clears up a lot of questions, including some I didn't know I needed to ask.
Like I always say, "It's what you learn after you know it all, that really counts".
JimComment
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Indeed.
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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So the basic 4 channel radio won't work with Snort? I'm just now getting interested in this system.Comment
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Why the heck is this not a "sticky" or part of a snort install info link on the sales page for the snort? I've been trying to figure this out for a week. I figured it would work just like this, but I wanted to be sure, so I kept searching. I still have one question, what's the best way to glue the manifold to the top of the balast tank?
Jay
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Jay
Rough the surface of the cylinder and manifold with a fine file or wet and dry sandpaper and a small ring of thick CA around the drilled hole works well. You'll need to chck for leaks when you do your leak test. You might want to hold a piece of wet and dry over the cylinder and run the manilfold over it a few times to make sure the diameters match before CA'ing.
MyronComment
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Thanks! That's a great idea to lap the manifold to the cylinder. I guess I can do the same for the push rod support for the bow planes.
JayComment
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