Converting a German Sub Type IXc

[Kidsub]

Hello all! Glad to be part of your group. My son, 13 yrs, and I are working to convert the Type IXc 1/72 scale to an RC Sub. My son built the model himself with intention of converting it. We are newbies, novices, rookies but have done a ton of research and attended local sub shows/regattas. We need just about everything from the sub-drivers static system, to propulsion, fitting kits and transmitter. It looks like the SAS Sub-driver SKU:SAS25T9 is the right sub driver (is there a cheaper one that would work as well?) but we could use guidance on other systems. Can you please advise us on what is minimally required and what are extras that would go nicely with this model? Thanks in advance for your guidance and we look forward to your response.

Pete & Ben

[trout]

Pete & Ben,
Welcome! I am currently building the Type IX. You ask is there a cheaper one that works as well and you will get different answers. I have been using Sub-Driver systems for three years . You will not go wrong with these proven WTCs. Sure you could build your own, but that opens a different set of issues if this is your first sub and cost savings becomes questionable when you want to cast your own end caps because you will need to buy the supplies. Oh not to mention additional tools. David also offers the non-ballasted systems, and it will save you a few dollars, but you will loose the fun of getting your sub up to waterline. You have the right idea for getting the SAS Sub-Driver.
What else will you need? Leveler (it is beyond optional), ESC electronic speed controller, servos - 3 minimum, receiver 6 channel 75Mhz, LiPo batteries, and LiPo fail safe. Extras would be magnetic switch and that is it for your first sub. I am sure I am missing something and others will chime in to help. Oh this site is essential too! Great guys and super knowledgeable.
Peace,
Tom

[Kidsub]

Thanks Tom. Very much appreciated. I would be good to obtain some clarity on starting. Does it make sense to start with the fitting kit first and then the dive system and finally the propulsion. Our goal is to build this in stages. Does this make sense or do you or anyone else have a recommendations on how to do this in stages. Thank you.

[trout]

To begin, go to the link below.
Then post your progress and we will help if needed. What a great adventure for the two of you.

[Kidsub]

Very nice work and great pictures of the steps. The model we have is already built. I know there are tricks or ideas that can be done from a built model and wondering if you or others have suggestions. I clearly understand the challenge of the little pieces breaking off from being bumped but we'll have to deal with that as we go. I look forward to your suggestions and look forward to posting out project. Again, great pics and descriptions.

[trout]

If you know of some tips or tricks, please share.
Building a working R/C submarine is hard enough without adding the additional headache of an assembled sub and going retro on the kit.
With decks sealed on, it is hard for me to imagine separating them from the hull unless the glue that was used was sparingly put on or did not have a good bond. So, what other way can be done?
We frequently use a cut in the hull called a "Z" cut. You would make a cut back from the bow a few inches, from the bottom of the sub up to a mid-line. The mid-line cut goes along the length of the sub, sometimes done at the waterline or at the widest part of the sub. You might be able to be creative and hide the cut by going around the saddle tanks rather than through them, but that will be up to you. The aft of the sub you have a cut from the deck down to the mid-line cut. This cutting forms a sideways Z.
Look at this build, it is my Skipjack build, http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/bu...skipjack-build
(Which if you decide to bin the Type 9 project, this is one of two subs I would recommend as a first sub)

Once you do your Z cut you will need to find a way to fasten the hull down (shown in the Skipjack build) and fill the cut along the mid-line.
Another build, this one the Type 23 shows a way to actually cut the mid-line cut, this sub is the second recommendation for a first time build.
http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/th...nco-type-xxiii
There are plenty of additional challenges by doing the retro cut and you may spend more than just buying another Type IX kit.
To sum it up for tips to offer:
1. Buy a new kit and do the build proper (if that is not an option move to #2))
2. Read the builds already posted, you are going to go where most of us rather not go. So, it will be your own creativity at work. You will need to understand in your head the basic steps of any build ( installing propellers, shafts, wtc, linkages to dive planes, trimming a boat, etc). If you can not vision or come up with your own plan of action, refer to tip one.
3. This tip applies to the build as a whole, if you start this, see it to the end as soon as possible. If you delay, your son might loose interest. Your mantra is "I will complete this sub" oh, and do not get side tracked with torpedoes or working periscopes for most adding that to a first sub is a plan for failure.
4. Post your progress, your mistakes, your own tips. We all learn from each other. We can give you a kick in the behind if you stall or if we see you making a critical mistake (it is up to you to follow the suggestion or decide to move ahead your way). We also can offer accolades to encourage you and your son. That being said, posting your build can help the next person that is looking at their Type IX and wonder "Can this be made into a working submarine?"
We all build on another's experience.

[Von Hilde]

I might have a few suggestions and ideas since I have one IXC compleeted and two more on the bench. The best way to go with what you have, is to be able to fund the project. In otherwords spend some money. First decide the dive system. static or dynamic. I would suggest first project, would be dynamic. The EZ driver is the way to go. All the systems in one tube. I bought a EZ kit and assembled it myself, just to learn the system. Then bought lots of spare pares to make a second one. My next IX is going to have balast and torpedos, and is on hold, for now. If I were you, I would first remove the deck with care not to bugger up the hull. then remove the revell bulkheads. Get the fittings kit Dave makes. Its a must have. I have scratch built a, one off, set of fittings for a Combat models 1/72 type IXD2. A genuine PIA, wont do that again.A handfull of money and next day air, beats the crap out of pulling hair out and swearing for a week. The brass decks are a must, if you dont cut all the limber holes in the hull. Air gets cought under the plastic deck during dives, and will sometimes even pop off the hull, unless you use a ton of magnets. Magnets and mounts are in the fittings kits. I dont know if you really want to chop up a display, if it had lots of time invested and detail work done, but if you destroy any factory parts, they can be replaced easilly. Revell of Germany has a site for the models relacement parts, basiclly for any kits that were damaged in shipping or lost parts. It takes a while for delivery, but generally all you pay is shipping. On the other hand, If you dont want to destroy the model, I have a spare hull, with fittings and brass decks, semi complete tower and everything you need to build a complete boat. Hull has fittings kit, limbers cut out. and brass p/e flood holes. Also have various weaponry available. I have too many model projects going on and have to dump some. Also have 6, 1/72 submarine kits new in the boxes stacked up in the shop. Dont know if I.ll ever get around to building them. The house has become my new project, and one of the sub projects is a bigger work space. "Soon Come Mon" thats Jamacian for "Almost, but not yet" Have to build a new bench, to fit a 1/6th Stearman biplane on floats. then the subs can have their own entire room. Have to wait till after Thanksgiving, the room is booked solid till then.Whole Famdamly, is a commin Maw!!! put some more water in the soup and dust off the couch.