USS Pogy in 1/72

[Slats]

Securing my Subdriver is two fold.
First:
Joel supplies with all his kits WTC saddles and a WTC location tab.
The tab is simply epoxied on to a WTC saddle in such a way that the WTC location tab, which is like a little nipple will mate with a little hole you drill in the lower side (near the base) of the ballast tank lexan tube. This insures no horizontal, lateral, or roll movement of the Subdriver.

Second I glue into the hull a series of three velcro computer cable tidys. These secure the Subdriver in place so that the Subdriver stays in its saddles.



For quick release of snort connections I simply use a silicon piece of tubing that acts as a tight friction fit over the supplied grey clippard line. Note also here the Caswell supplied U fitting here with magnet Klickon that engages with the sail plane linkage when the upper hull is applied to the lower hull half.



The snort line (here shown with the quick release silicon on its end), can be kept in place so as not to clash with the operation of the sail planes via running it under the velcro tabs that keep the Subdriver on its saddles.

[Slats]

Ok here is what I aim for a fully loaded ready to put to see dived ballast state for "blue water" or if you like lake ops...or anywhere where the bottom and or water visibility are 2 questionable factors. For pools I'd go a tad lower, but for beginners and people who want to have pretty much a trouble free time this is the ultimate setup.



Note the sub is ballasted still a tad positive. I need a little dynamic force to dive to PD and a little less to stay at PD all day long.

I haven't shown here all the steps involved in ballasting - but I make use of finding the COG and COR via finding the profile area mid point of the sub by overlaying the profile plan with equal squares and counting the number of whole squares that make up exactly half of the boat. At this point I position the Centre of the Ballast tank, and I distribute, with a fully laden Subdriver including a full shot of gas, lead sinkers in the lower hull. I needed 14oz of lead in this hull and most of it was positioned just ahead of the COG spot and some behind. You'll note from the previous photos showing the sail plane linkage only a tiny bit of foam, high and below the waterline was required with the largest part of foam added forward in the bow, high and below the water line.

Your Subdriver ballast tank dived should be full of water, and surfaced it should be empty - not half full or partially full in either state.

The back end - not the detail of the DSRV markings, paint job, and bird droppings on the upper rudder (which) is slightly out of the water at the slightly positive dived trim I dialled in.
The **** in the forward left hand lower side is a bird feather **** on the water - its not a blemish on the sub


Note in this shot the anti-skid deck. I applied a heavy matt over spray only to this section. The contrast to the rest of the hull in my view looks good.



The main pennant decals are from Woodland scenics - these are dry and need a waterproof coating. The other depth marks are vinyl waterproof self adhesive from BECC model flags in the UK.

[Slats]

This submarine has been a fun and enjoyable build utilising Joel's long hulled Permit hull (Jack) and my own and commissioned parts. The major fun however is in the driving.

This sub first big days out was the recent Subregatta held in the June long weekend in the Central Coast of NSW in Australia.

A better than average manoeuvring sub model, both on the surface and below. I have to say I am huge fan of Carbon fibre prop Joel supplies in his kits, this sub was tested initially with brass, and lighting the boat up to a different trim setting to allow for the carbon prop was something I planned for as the carbon prop is so much more effective at torque transfer than the brass.

Here are some photos of Pogy at play. Most of these photos were taken my myself whilst driving, this boat is so simple to helm. I had beginners driving her for many hours. After a whole weekend running - no leaks in the Subdriver and gas still in there tank to vent out both days. I have since removed the Subdrivers gas saver as with snort you really don't need it.

[Slats]

Some more patrol pictures

[Slats]

To conclude:

There is no 1/72 scale Sturgeon kit currently on the market, but a conversion is eminently possible with a minimum of scratch building should you desire it making use of an excellent Joel Stadnick USS Jack hull (long Permit hull) and some of the features that Joel includes within his Permit kit range that I have outlined with this build. Basically if Joel is happy to supply it, order the Jack hull kit minus the sail, sail planes, and with a Standard Permit kit propeller and you will have more hardware than you need to develop a your own Sturgeon. Get a copy of Greg Sharpe's excellent plans on the Sturgeon and have a go at building your own sail, sail planes, rear planes and rear stabilisers or if you like get Joel's permission to modify his rear planes as per this build.

Coupled with a Subdriver from David and Mike you too can have a great all round boat of a this wonderful class of Cold War warrior.

I have thoroughly enjoyed both building / assembling and operating this boat and wait with great anticipation to take delivery of my Seawolf kit from Joel.

Best

John

[Pablo]

Nice model, very good balance Scuba Diving

[Slats]

Thanks, she is very enjoyable boat to drive. At the Sub Regatta I had a variety of members of the public having a go at the helm. I'd recommend a model like this to beginners right through to long time operators.

Best
J