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My Redoutable first lake run

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  • #31
    Not like airplanes is it? Much more to r/c submarining than making sure that the batteries are charged and you have enough cash for the noon-time meal.

    R/c submarines demand your time, skill and attention.

    Pre-mission: Assemble SD/MSD; leak test the SD/MSD; integrate SD/MSD with hull; cycling all controls, ballast and propulsion elements; outfitting your field box using check-list (and recovery gear... Steve!)

    Mission: Consultation with fellow boat drivers to insure they understand your abilities and liabilities, establish a 'safe zone' where you can operate without getting run over; in-water checks; maintain charge in on-board ballast blow bottle; monitor battery charge, etc.; maintain maintenance/damage/trouble log.

    Post-mission: Preservation of SD/MSD and hull; batteries on charge; perform maintenance as identified by call-outs in the log; place model on display and opened up SD/MSD placed in warm dry, dust free storage.

    In the Navy I was qualified in submarines and worked as a hard-hat diver. Two institutions that lived and breathed, PROCEEDURE!!!!! Same in this hobby of ours: Do it by the numbers or eventually you go home with an empty boat stand.

    End of lecture. 601. End of line.

    David
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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    • #32
      Good advice. When I was reassembling the motor bulkhead the two washers that keep the drive shaft gear from moving forward and disengaging fell off and I didn't notice it. Got it to the lake and the propeller stopped turning because the gear disengaged from the shaft. Once home I got it apart and realized that they were missing. Found them on the floor were I had been working on it. All better now.

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post
        Good advice. When I was reassembling the motor bulkhead the two washers that keep the drive shaft gear from moving forward and disengaging fell off and I didn't notice it. Got it to the lake and the propeller stopped turning because the gear disengaged from the shaft. Once home I got it apart and realized that they were missing. Found them on the floor were I had been working on it. All better now.
        https://youtu.be/VPNQNOn_mWU
        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
          Yeah, no kidding! I will also add a big DOH as well. Lol

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

            Yeah, no kidding! I will also add a big DOH as well. Lol
            Two crummy washers, and again, you're dead in the water.

            We having fun yet, Steve?

            David
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

              Two crummy washers, and again, you're dead in the water.

              We having fun yet, Steve?

              David
              Getting there. Learning comes before the fun. At least this time I had my fishing pole and after fixing it I did go back out for a successful run.

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

                Getting there. Learning comes before the fun. At least this time I had my fishing pole and after fixing it I did go back out for a successful run.
                Good man. You strike me as a 'glass half full' sort of guy.

                If you still have the fried motor take it apart and tell me what burned, the windings or the commutator. Thanks.

                David
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                Comment


                • #38
                  Looks like the winding to me.. Upon further inspection there may have been more drag on the drive shaft bushings than I realized which contributed to this failure although it wasn't like that when I put it together so still puzzled on that on that one.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post
                    Looks like the winding to me.. Upon further inspection there may have been more drag on the drive shaft bushings than I realized which contributed to this failure although it wasn't like that when I put it together so still puzzled on that on that one.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    OK. Thanks for the look-see, Steve. Yeah, carbonized armature wire insulation. seized motor no doubt. Where was the fuse, ahead or behind the ESC, and what was it rated for (and was it quick or slow pop)?

                    David
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

                      OK. Thanks for the look-see, Steve. Yeah, carbonized armature wire insulation. seized motor no doubt. Where was the fuse, ahead or behind the ESC, and what was it rated for (and was it quick or slow pop)?

                      David
                      Obviously I am still learning... what fuse?

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

                        Obviously I am still learning... what fuse?
                        LOL.

                        No shaming here. I don't use them myself.

                        But it's good practice to put a quick-acting fuse between the ESC and motor. The idea is to open the circuit before a seized motor (bad running gear or fowled propeller) pulls enough current to either fry the ESC or itself.

                        David
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

                          LOL.

                          No shaming here. I don't use them myself.

                          But it's good practice to put a quick-acting fuse between the ESC and motor. The idea is to open the circuit before a seized motor (bad running gear or fowled propeller) pulls enough current to either fry the ESC or itself.

                          David
                          Not a bad idea at all. I will consider installing one. Is there a method for determining what size to go with? Measure the current and multiply by 1.35 for a slo-blo?

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

                            Not a bad idea at all. I will consider installing one. Is there a method for determining what size to go with? Measure the current and multiply by 1.35 for a slo-blo?
                            Apply that percentage to the motors stall current and you're golden. I consider fuses an over-kill on the caution side. But, in light of your recent adventure...

                            If you're using a dedicated BEC put the fuse ahead of the ESC -- that way if you lose the BEC you still have system power and the fail-safe can do its job. if you're using the ESC's BEC (WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT!!!????) then place the fuse between the ESC and the motor.
                            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                            Comment

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