Party (fishing) boats

[trout]

Wow, my friend, I like the tip on glazing and scrub lines.

[Bob Gato]

I can smell the diesel exhaust and clam bellies already!

[Ken_NJ]

So modelers would like to reproduce black diesel smoke which we know can't be done, but maybe have that diesel and fishy smell around a model? How would that be Bob?

More about the lines for you Tom.

This is the look I’m going for, well close to it.


With the lines I scribed on the boat as they are, when I paint the hull it will look like this. These lines are too deep or pronounced for my liking.


This is a test piece on scrap polyester resin sheet. The left side would be the original scribed lines. The right side is the filled in lines. This looks closer to what I'm looking for.


David suggested using this glazing putty. I have a few spreaders I made from scrap acrylic which worked well. I filed the working edge down on both sides.



The putty was spread on the hull and pressed into the scribed lines, which made a mess on the hull. So I didn't have to sand that mess I wiped it down with acetone on a paper towel. That also created a convex into the scribed line. David said it would shrink enough to give me the effect I was looking for but I just didn’t want to do more sanding, si I wiped it down. Unless there was another way I could apply it without making the mess.


This is the final result. For those lines that were scribed shallow, when I wiped down the hull it wiped away the glazing there. All the scribed lines don’t need to look perfect, after all it’s a painted planked weathered hull with irregularities.


Will have to wait and see how it looks after it’s primed white and painted white. The glazing comes in red, white and gray. Did not want to use red, too dark for a white top coat, might bleed thru. Could not find anyone that carried white, so gray it was. Bought it on Amazon, pricey. Hopefully the gray does not bleed thru the primer and top coats. Any suggestions to prevent bleed thru?

[Bob Gato]

Those lines are very difficult thing to duplicate - My Pacemaker is a less commercial look than your party boat, but the planking is the same carvel plank with boatlife between to seal. I chose to use no filler between planks to fair and after prime coat squeegeed in some latex caulking and then wiped the calking out of the seam as needed for the look I wanted with a wet rag (water). When dried, finish paint coats were sprayed -That nitrostan can be messy and the acetone for cleanup might ruin prior coatings. I figured that the latex calk would flex like the 1:1 boatlife . It might be worth experimenting the method-BG

The transom planks just have edging done black before installation and gold leaf(real)has strategic scrapes to duplicate what we did when pulling a 7ft blue shark in over the transom.- the varnish was applied as to duplicate the finish that the owner (my Dad) wound up with as years of refinishing had been done.

[Ken_NJ]

I didn't need to worry about prior coatings, was going directly on the epoxy surface. It seemed to work well in my case. Of course tested before doing it on the boat. Anyone would need to use something other than acetone if doing this on a plastic hull of some sorts.

My transom is stained and coated with clear epoxy. Once I apply the decals from Callie when ready, will be coating with many layers of urethane.

[Ken_NJ]

Scuppers are done. Tedious work. Happy Holidays all you model builders!

[Ken_NJ]

I am need of suggestions. For this boat I need to add the aft spray rail into the hull. I need to cut a slice in the hull to add the spray rails. I have a cheapo Dremel vice holder but the Dremel body would interfere with the hull if the hull was upside down or right side up so I cannot make the cut. I thought of making a Dremel holder like David made in order to cut slices in submarine hulls but I have not yet until I get a better idea.


These are the spray rails. They are 3/32" thick. A Dremel cut off wheel is about 1/32" thick. They still need to be cut to shape.



The yellow line is where the spray rail goes. It goes from the transom to 12" up the side.



The transom where it goes.



I was thinking of using a straight edge and scribe the line then maybe use the hobby razor saw to get the opening bigger then a fine file to finish off the slot. Just a thought.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pull-Razor-Hobby-Blades/dp/B08VRHNN5Q/ref=sr_1_5?crid=CWTEE6BBVFJ2&keywords=hobby+sa w&qid=1679340444&sprefix=hobby+saw%2Caps %2 C107&sr=8-5

Any suggestions? David always comes up with something good.

[Ken_NJ]

I eventually figured out a method to get the 3/32 slot I needed. This slot is for a rub rail most boats of this type have around the aft end of the boat. After careful measurements, I placed double faced tape on either side of the slot location. I placed one piece of metal bar on the tape. I used 3/32 spacers to place the second piece. I then used a razor saw which has a very thin kerf to it to slice into the approximately 0.040 epoxy and 3/32 wood hull sides.



You can see the razor saw, bottom right. I removed the handle which gave me more control.



Finished slots. Also cleaned them up with a file.



Here's a rub rail in place. They will eventually be epoxied in place once I'm done fitting them.



Here's the rub rail on the real boat.



This might be a good method to split the hull on the Bronco XXIII when I get to that.

[Ken_NJ]

Made some struts. They look so good all shiny. They will eventually be painted with bottom paint and have zincs applied. A bronze bearing will be inserted to support the shaft. I used sliver bearing solder on these.

[Ken_NJ]

Also made a few rudders. Made drawings for two sizes.



The rudders and shafts were both slotted. Added an additional hole for more solder.



Used silver bearing solder. The rudder was placed on a hot plate with small pieces of solder sliced with a razor and strategically placed.



Close up.



First I made the smaller size rudders.



Then I thought they were too small. So I made a second larger set. The larger set foots the bill.