chasing a leak
Collapse
X
-
-
1b) ... although I have to adjust weights for trim because batteries are not same weight
2) pump is Caswell SNORT...
I rarely use Propel anymore especially in 'safe' areas. I set the trim for slightly positive buoyancy, drive the sub to the surface and turn on the SNORT pump. Simple and very effective.
David,
Colors came from my observation of bottom of Carmel pool and guessing what would blend in best. There's a few of us 'crazies' who take delight in making a sub vanish in the Carmel pool. Keeps everyone else on their toes - LOL.
DanLeave a comment:
-
Dan,
Thanks for the photo essay on Dave Manley's WTC. Well done shots and most instructive.
Dave, I assume, is out of the game at present. But, for over ten years he produced both fine hull kits and innovative and reliable WTC's like the one pictured above.
Dan, nice installation of that *** in the after dry space, by the way.
Gotta ask: Where did that color scheme come from?
DavidLeave a comment:
-
Once more unto the breach....
Mike, I hope this is what you were asking for.
Various pix of Small World Models WTC as designed for their 1:96 Blueback.
servo and motor compartment...
servos with adaptor caps...
servos mounted in motor compartment...
motor bulkhead ...... mounted on motor/servo compartment...
add the Lexan 'engine room' cylinder...
ballast compartment - wet side...... and dry side...
attach the ballast compartment to the 'engine room' ...
battery and radio compartment...... attached to ballast compartment...
radio room - I like to separate my radios from any motors or ESC's as far as possible...
the completed WTC...... mounted in the bottom of the Blueback...
Blueback in Carmel Measure #3
DanLeave a comment:
-
So, do tell: was this where you saw the bubbles?
DavidLeave a comment:
-
small world models
The nice thing is the rotary outputs for the servos
The bad thing, is the rotary outputs for the servos - i found mine started leaking if the servos werent just rightLeave a comment:
-
I determined that the leak was between the "O" ring and the blue casing and not between the "O" ring and the Lexan cylinder. I guessed that there must have been a very small nick or some other defect that allowed water to escape under the "O" ring. I tried thin CA glue to fill in the nick and it got better but still leaked, I tried more CA but it still leaked so I put some silicone sealant on the spot, smoothed it out with my finger, took it outside in 85F weather and let it bake in the sun for 4 hours.
Reinstalled the "O" ring, assembled the WTC, put it in my test tank in about a foot of water and let it soak overnight. Next morning checked it - no leaks.
Picture with silicone sealant applied ...
and a pic with the "O" ring installed...
As always, this is just how I did it - your mileage may vary.
DanLeave a comment:
-
David,
Yes ... but... I have to blow really, really hard to cause the bubbles.
Oh, wait. OK, that's the leak. I'll try sealing it up better.
Dan
P.S. It's pronounced EYE-gor.Leave a comment:
-
Wait, did I read that right? You blew into the cylinder, got bubbles around an O-ring, and then discounted the validity of the test?
Is-that-what-you're-telling-me!?.... (With hands firmly around Igor's throat).
YOU FOUND YOUR LEAK!
Fix it.
David,Leave a comment:
-
chasing a leak
To All.
I have a WTC from Small World Models that uses O rings for seals. Somewhere in my setup I have a leak that I simply cannot find. And I'm not talking a few drops here, I'm talking about a teaspoon full after maybe 15 minutes. Should be easy to find, right? Well not by me.
Here's what I've done so far:
1) Rigged up an entry tube so that I can attach a hose to blow into the WTC and watch for bubbles. Only after I've blown real hard can I force bubbles out through one of the O rings. But I question the validity of this test as it's not a real world situation, I don't think. The pressure inside the WTC should be (is?) less than the surrounding water. Right?
2) Swapped out the small (ID=1/8") O rings around the servo shafts as well as the Oilite bearing. On this WTC the servo shafts are use rotationally not back and forth. Should I also seal the small O rings into their opening with silicone?
3) I've put electrical tape around the circumference of the WTC to try and stop water from even reaching the large O rings.
4) I've replaced the propeller shaft seal with a Merriman designed prop shaft seal.
5) Assembled the WTC so that only the rear portion is being tested. In doing so I've effectively eliminated over half of the seals as a source of the leak.
And yet, the flood continues. This is driving me CRAAZZEE! (my family would say it's not a drive but a putt).
Any ideas?
Dan
Leave a comment: