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I always have used a 3/4" deep X-acto razor saw. Super thin kerf. I use it on plastic kits, fiberglass, wood, and sometimes thin wall brass tube. I have mine plugged into the standard sized red X-acto handle.
That's great info thank you for your help guys...…..I was pondering using a saw I have at home, it is a Japanese flush cut saw its blade is .6mm or 0.024" thick and the teeth have a 0.05" spacing on them. Has anyone used one of these for the task?
That's great info thank you for your help guys...…..I was pondering using a saw I have at home, it is a Japanese flush cut saw its blade is .6mm or 0.024" thick and the teeth have a 0.05" spacing on them. Has anyone used one of these for the task?
Thanks again in advance!
GRP is glass. It will tear that saw up in five strokes.
This is the saw-I use it on all my fiberglass boats-never a z-cut though...but jet pump intakes...deck hatch cutouts and gunnel shear trimming. I just plunge cut with the corner of the blade and once the corner is thru then the blade will self guide itself along the pencil mark with very little guidance. If you slip -it wont cut skin or soft items. It can be varied to oscillate at 10000-21000 OPS. Cuts wood, aluminum, all plastics, copper, brass, steel -very thin kerf and very little dust.(except when cutting drywall LOL) Note: the blade doesn't reciprocate -it oscillates .
Most hobby shops carry Zona saws. They have a range of tooth sizes and are thinner and more flexible than exacto saw blades. You cut by pulling theblade so it is easier to get a straight line. Works well for doing the short cuts in fiberglass hulls and cutting the foam for ballast. I have quit making the cut at the front of the boat, just leave it straight at the water line, but do the back cut the same.
This is the saw-I use it on all my fiberglass boats-never a z-cut though...but jet pump intakes...deck hatch cutouts and gunnel shear trimming. I just plunge cut with the corner of the blade and once the corner is thru then the blade will self guide itself along the pencil mark with very little guidance. If you slip -it wont cut skin or soft items. It can be varied to oscillate at 10000-21000 OPS. Cuts wood, aluminum, all plastics, copper, brass, steel -very thin kerf and very little dust.(except when cutting drywall LOL) Note: the blade doesn't reciprocate -it oscillates .
Most hobby shops carry Zona saws. They have a range of tooth sizes and are thinner and more flexible than exacto saw blades. You cut by pulling theblade so it is easier to get a straight line. Works well for doing the short cuts in fiberglass hulls and cutting the foam for ballast. I have quit making the cut at the front of the boat, just leave it straight at the water line, but do the back cut the same.
I actually ordered a zona saw yesterday! Thank you sir
Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!) NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS
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