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Astute Submarine Control Horns - Help ?

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  • Astute Submarine Control Horns - Help ?

    Hello All,

    I am new to this hobby and forum. I’m currently building Bob’s 3D printed Astute submarine and am almost nearing completion... except I am stuck at configuring the control horns inside the Bow for the rudder and dive planes.

    i bought the following yokes of bobs site

    https://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/control-yokes

    but how do I avoid a conflict between them and the drive shaft. Perhaps I’m approaching this the wrong way and I don’t see the details in Bobs great video unfortunately.

    Can anybody send me a picture of their setup as that would help ?






  • #2
    Uptona,

    I have your two email messages! I am not sure how that works on this forum yet! SORRY I have not been able to answer your question on what I did on my Astute! If you noticed ion the blog that a set up for my build, I stated I was building this boat as a SURFACE RUNNER ONLY! That's how I have it set up. I have RUDDER only, no dive plains. This was my first attempt at building a Sub and also my first attempt at building a WTC.

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    I am sure using a yoke configuration )of which there are many) of some sort will work! Good luck on your build! Again I am sorry for the no answer on your private question to me!!

    Rob

    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Comment


    • #3
      Behold! (crack of thunder sound effect)

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      Attached Files
      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

      Comment


      • #4
        My life is now complete , many thanks for the feedback. I shall put this to good use at the weekend.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Uptona View Post
          My life is now complete , many thanks for the feedback. I shall put this to good use at the weekend.
          Keep us informed.

          David
          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

          Comment


          • #6
            Ok so I now have both horns connected.

            it appears I have circa 60 degrees of movement on each axis before I either contact the drive shaft or one of the control horn collets.

            I could stretch the plastic horns but that would put undue strain on the plastic horn and feels wrong.

            So my new question is whether 60 degree shaft movement is sufficient for both the rudder or bow planes?

            Of course at the rudder or bow planes this equates to 30 degrees movement either side of the centre line.





            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Uptona View Post
              Ok so I now have both horns connected.

              it appears I have circa 60 degrees of movement on each axis before I either contact the drive shaft or one of the control horn collets.

              I could stretch the plastic horns but that would put undue strain on the plastic horn and feels wrong.

              So my new question is whether 60 degree shaft movement is sufficient for both the rudder or bow planes?

              Of course at the rudder or bow planes this equates to 30 degrees movement either side of the center line.
              Typical marine control surfaces stall out at 35-degrees, so you're almost there. (you keep saying bow planes -- you mean stern planes?). As a practical mater, as they have so much authority, stern planes need not travel more than 20-degrees. Rudder, you want the full 35-degrees.

              As you are clashing the yokes at under 35-degree throws I recommend you fabricate your own. You can solder, right?

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              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes I meant stern (rear) not bow (duh), thanks.

                i noted in Bobs video

                https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ub17Zdqgk88

                at 23:18 he discusses instead separating the rudder control linkage but if I took that approach it leaves me with the question how to join the two separate linkages?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Uptona View Post
                  Yes I meant stern (rear) not bow (duh), thanks.

                  i noted in Bobs video

                  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ub17Zdqgk88

                  at 23:18 he discusses instead separating the rudder control linkage but if I took that approach it leaves me with the question how to join the two separate linkages?
                  You form a Y-pushrod. Something like what I did with this 1/96 SEAWOLF. Nothing to it, pal.

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                  Instead of soldering things at the apex of the Y, you solder a large wheel-collar. This permits adjustment of travel so you can easily center the two rudders.

                  Or, you can get fancy, make an 'interface block' equipped with set-screws to afford fine adjustment of each leg of the Y pushrod.

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                  David
                  "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    David thankyou that’s really helpful,

                    I’ve also just rechecked the rudder throw and it is easily 35 degrees either side of the centreline. I therefore assume I should be safe to proceed based on your guidance above ....

                    Otherwise I may try your Y pushrod approach..

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Though the rudders are near useless for yaw force production above 35-degree, you sometimes want the drag, like when you're doing Y and W turns. Go with the Y-pushrod and get the most throw on those rudders as you can.

                      David
                      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                      Comment

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