Astute Submarine Control Horns - Help ?

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  • Uptona
    Ensign
    • Jul 2020
    • 6

    Astute Submarine Control Horns - Help ?

    Hello All,

    I am new to this hobby and forum. I’m currently building Bob’s 3D printed Astute submarine and am almost nearing completion... except I am stuck at configuring the control horns inside the Bow for the rudder and dive planes.

    i bought the following yokes of bobs site



    but how do I avoid a conflict between them and the drive shaft. Perhaps I’m approaching this the wrong way and I don’t see the details in Bobs great video unfortunately.

    Can anybody send me a picture of their setup as that would help ?





  • rwtdiver
    Vice Admiral
    • Feb 2019
    • 1768

    #2
    Uptona,

    I have your two email messages! I am not sure how that works on this forum yet! SORRY I have not been able to answer your question on what I did on my Astute! If you noticed ion the blog that a set up for my build, I stated I was building this boat as a SURFACE RUNNER ONLY! That's how I have it set up. I have RUDDER only, no dive plains. This was my first attempt at building a Sub and also my first attempt at building a WTC.

    Click image for larger version

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    I am sure using a yoke configuration )of which there are many) of some sort will work! Good luck on your build! Again I am sorry for the no answer on your private question to me!!

    Rob

    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12253

      #3
      Behold! (crack of thunder sound effect)

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      Attached Files
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • Uptona
        Ensign
        • Jul 2020
        • 6

        #4
        My life is now complete , many thanks for the feedback. I shall put this to good use at the weekend.

        Comment

        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Moderator
          • Aug 2008
          • 12253

          #5
          Originally posted by Uptona
          My life is now complete , many thanks for the feedback. I shall put this to good use at the weekend.
          Keep us informed.

          David
          Who is John Galt?

          Comment

          • Uptona
            Ensign
            • Jul 2020
            • 6

            #6
            Ok so I now have both horns connected.

            it appears I have circa 60 degrees of movement on each axis before I either contact the drive shaft or one of the control horn collets.

            I could stretch the plastic horns but that would put undue strain on the plastic horn and feels wrong.

            So my new question is whether 60 degree shaft movement is sufficient for both the rudder or bow planes?

            Of course at the rudder or bow planes this equates to 30 degrees movement either side of the centre line.





            Comment

            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
              Moderator
              • Aug 2008
              • 12253

              #7
              Originally posted by Uptona
              Ok so I now have both horns connected.

              it appears I have circa 60 degrees of movement on each axis before I either contact the drive shaft or one of the control horn collets.

              I could stretch the plastic horns but that would put undue strain on the plastic horn and feels wrong.

              So my new question is whether 60 degree shaft movement is sufficient for both the rudder or bow planes?

              Of course at the rudder or bow planes this equates to 30 degrees movement either side of the center line.
              Typical marine control surfaces stall out at 35-degrees, so you're almost there. (you keep saying bow planes -- you mean stern planes?). As a practical mater, as they have so much authority, stern planes need not travel more than 20-degrees. Rudder, you want the full 35-degrees.

              As you are clashing the yokes at under 35-degree throws I recommend you fabricate your own. You can solder, right?

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              Who is John Galt?

              Comment

              • Uptona
                Ensign
                • Jul 2020
                • 6

                #8
                Yes I meant stern (rear) not bow (duh), thanks.

                i noted in Bobs video

                Print your own RC submarine hull using these 3D files, now available at the Nautilus Drydocks.Full info available on the product page at: https://www.rc-subm...


                at 23:18 he discusses instead separating the rudder control linkage but if I took that approach it leaves me with the question how to join the two separate linkages?

                Comment

                • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                  Moderator
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 12253

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Uptona
                  Yes I meant stern (rear) not bow (duh), thanks.

                  i noted in Bobs video

                  Print your own RC submarine hull using these 3D files, now available at the Nautilus Drydocks.Full info available on the product page at: https://www.rc-subm...


                  at 23:18 he discusses instead separating the rudder control linkage but if I took that approach it leaves me with the question how to join the two separate linkages?
                  You form a Y-pushrod. Something like what I did with this 1/96 SEAWOLF. Nothing to it, pal.

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                  Instead of soldering things at the apex of the Y, you solder a large wheel-collar. This permits adjustment of travel so you can easily center the two rudders.

                  Or, you can get fancy, make an 'interface block' equipped with set-screws to afford fine adjustment of each leg of the Y pushrod.

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                  David
                  Who is John Galt?

                  Comment

                  • Uptona
                    Ensign
                    • Jul 2020
                    • 6

                    #10
                    David thankyou that’s really helpful,

                    I’ve also just rechecked the rudder throw and it is easily 35 degrees either side of the centreline. I therefore assume I should be safe to proceed based on your guidance above ....

                    Otherwise I may try your Y pushrod approach..

                    Comment

                    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                      Moderator
                      • Aug 2008
                      • 12253

                      #11
                      Though the rudders are near useless for yaw force production above 35-degree, you sometimes want the drag, like when you're doing Y and W turns. Go with the Y-pushrod and get the most throw on those rudders as you can.

                      David
                      Who is John Galt?

                      Comment

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