OTW Type VII improved access?

[RCSubGuy]

Looking for some guidance for anyone who's traveled down this road. I've built up this model as a static display before, but haven't tackled it as and R/C model until now.


I have a started OTW Type VII that I will be finishing up for a customer. Comes with the OTW 4.25" diameter cylinder. I've successfully put the cylinder in and gotten it out through the existing opening under the PE decking, but I really don't like doing it. You need to spread the hull considerably and I only see issues arising over time with damaged paint finish on the boat, scratched OD on the tube, and frustration at having to go through the whole battle every time you need to make an adjustment or charge a battery.


Was thinking of getting extreme and cutting the whole model at the waterline. Seems like it would be a good idea in that you'd get unrestricted access to the interior with no need to take apart the upper deck piece by piece in order to gain access. Drawback I see is maintaining hull alignment over the entire (considerable) length.


Has anyone else done anything more creative than using the existing access, or possible dreamed something up that I can steal (er... borrow)?




Thanks!

[redboat219]

Instead of cutting the entire length of the hull. Why not go with a single vertical hull cut.

you then use 2 screws to hold the hull halves together.



Assembly sequence

1.wtc slides into front of hull


2. back hull in aligned and placed over wtc


3. screws are secured

[RCSubGuy]

I had thought of that, but I had concerns over getting a perfectly perpendicular, flush cut on such a big boat. Still an option, just not one that I'm super comfortable with...

Thanks for the suggestion and photos!

[Von Hilde]

thats a mighty big wrench that puts out plenty torque. Looks like he one I use on the valve covers of my hotrod. I think magnets is the way to go. No tools necessary. The revell type IX is half way there already, with guides moulded in. Ive seen a type VII model that seperates at the bottom of the balast tanks and the center deck section with tower lifts off, which looked quite good, but rather unorthodox. I think if you have a OTW hull, the 1/32 deck width aft of the tower is a bit over 3", so why not just get a smaller diameter wtc and transfer components

[redboat219]

A smaller wtc equates to a smaller ballast tank.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Slice that sucker at the waterline, put alternating indexing tabes top and bottom, and get on with it, Bob!

Stop agonizing and do it. Let only the Government over-engineer simple things.

You slap beautiful N's together for laughes ... and you stumble over this little thing!???.....

M

[Von Hilde]

A smaller wtc equates to a smaller ballast tank.

What you would loose in the diameter reduction of a half inch you compinsate for with liength. were talking 1/32 scale boat, as well and an antique model to boot, so I can appreciate the reluctance to hack away at it. I, myself, would love to find a big OTW or Ammati, "Attic find" to saw up

[RCSubGuy]

Sorry guys.. No way I'm dumping a $1300 cylinder just to make access a bit easier.

Upon further research, I'm really thinking hard about a longitudinal split like the Engel boats. Biggest reason: it can cut the boat length in half for transport, and when you're talking about a boat this big, that's actually a big deal.

[Von Hilde]

thats the best way to go. Especially that size boat. My 1/32 U 571 is a big PIA just to move it around in the house. Wont pass thru the studio door and down the hall unless I carry it verticle. I dont have to travel far to get wet tho, about 12 steps from the living room porch door to the dock. Its due for some neglected yard overhaul and repair and paint. Lots of broken little stuff from banging it around. Been sitting on the top of the entertainment center for a couple years gathering dust and drawing comments from the commander in chief of the house. like,"Are you ever going to.....?" or "I know a grear spot to put it....." or the big one " How much time and money?..."

[vital.spark]

I've noticed that my type VII has spread a bit which has caused the deck not to reach both sides over part of the deck's length. I believe this has been caused by leaving the Sub-Driver in the boat during storage. I do leave both end caps open a bit for air circulation. I might consider using the method Romel posted in Thread #2 on a future build.

[redboat219]

Do believe the method i posted would work with David's SD and fitings kit.

[Von Hilde]

I had thought of that, but I had concerns over getting a perfectly perpendicular, flush cut on such a big boat. Still an option, just not one that I'm super comfortable with...

Thanks for the suggestion and photos!

easy to cut with a miter box with the hull upside down using the deck surface as the baseline for the 90degree cut. Use a fine tooth blade like an x-acto saw as well. "Piece of cake"

[RCSubGuy]

I think I've decided to make this perpendicular cut, but not secure via bayonet but rather flush mount and indexing rods. If I use my diamond cutoff wheel I could wander the cut all over and still have a flush seam when mated.

Will probably perform the surgery next week when I'm back from vacation. Will start a construction thread for everyone to follow along and offer advice.

Thanks!


Bob

[trout]

Thank you Bob for your willingness to open your operating room for us to observe.

[Von Hilde]

Bob, if you use a miter box and a fine blade saw there is no wandering and is a perfect cut with minimal kurf. If you dont know how to use one, there very simple and inexpensive, or can be made out of a couple pieces of scrap wood. An alternitive would be to use a bandsaw if you have access to one. as far as alignment pins, there unessesary. Look at the type IX im building with a split hull access. Note the only index alignment point is the V notch at the keel. The insides of the hull's contour have a gussett to keep the hull sides lined up. I went ahead and installed a bulkhead to keep the rudder and dive plane pushrods inline. The propshafts will go thru a bearing in a small plate that will go across the bottom of the bulkhead. for added measure I added a section of of sub decking to interlock with the top and keep everything copasetic. The magnet on the bottom of the brass deck along with the magnets yet to be installed on the bulkheads will insure a tight fit at the seams.