The Best way to access the Revell 1/72 GATO's interior!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator
    • Aug 2008
    • 12321

    The Best way to access the Revell 1/72 GATO's interior!

    Gene Berger taught me how to drive an r/c model submarine.

    Gene Berger was the guy, working as Editor, who morphed the SubCommittee Report from a rather amateurish looking newsletter into the slick, professionally arranged magazine it is today.

    Gene Berger's my friend (God help him!).

    Gene Berger has convinced me that the best way to access the interior of the Revell 1/72 GATO is through the superstructure -- as so many others have done with limited success. Gene's twist -- that makes that access arrangement so easy to fabricate and use -- is use of two transverse bulkheads up forward that make up, either side of the kits bow radial break line. Two capture-indexing pins-holes between the two bow bulkheads capture the superstructure onto the hull forward. A single screw back aft holds the stern of the superstructure down onto the deck. This eliminates the much dreaded task of sawing longitudinal breaks at the waterline, either side of the hull -- good news for those wishing to r/c this excellent plastic model kit.

    A big innovation, which eliminates much of the clutter atop the SD with my version, is the mounting of the long-running bow plane pushrod and retract mechanism torque tube into the top of the superstructure, up and out of the way -- the interface between those linkage elements, and the SD below in the hull, made through magnets that make up to the SD pushrods. Only tool involved in assemble/disassembly is a screw driver. Things go together as if by magic ... the magic of magnetism (thank you, Brian Stark!).

    Oh, and turning the system on and off is done with the hull elements assembled, through a reach-rod on deck that works a magnet in proximity to a reed switch -- a reed-switch controlling a latching type high-current relay that forms a series switch between the battery and power cables that feed the ESC and other devices. Next to the relay is a 10 A fuse. All this stuff on an aluminum tray that fits above the battery in the forward dry space. Neat!

    Gene and I took his beast out for its first in-water run this afternoon. It was a beautiful day and we operated at a local industrial park that has a nice body of water with good access. The model ran great! Owing to his installing too much of the foam above waterline, the boat would only go decks awash when flooded down, so it took a bit of speed to get the shears below the surface. Tonight he's repositioning the foam, and that should fix that.

    No damage, and the boat worked fine.

    And now, as to the GATO fittings kits I produce for Caswell: I'm seriously thinking of adding the parts needed by our customers to access their GATO hulls, much as what Gene has done. I'm sold!

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    Who is John Galt?
  • redboat219
    Admiral
    • Dec 2008
    • 2759

    #2
    Something like a modified Z-cut.
    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12321

      #3
      Originally posted by redboat219
      Something like a modified Z-cut.
      Very much yes, Romel.
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • vital.spark
        Commander
        • May 2010
        • 276

        #4
        David,

        I can see a lot of very frustrated owners tring to set the bow plane operating mechinism up as they are unable to check the operation unless the sub is fully assembled. Your present method is better as everything is laid out in front of you with the superstructure off.

        Regards,

        Myron

        Comment

        • trout
          Admiral
          • Jul 2011
          • 3547

          #5
          David,

          I would need to play with it to see if what Myron is saying is correct, but with a jig making every install identical this would lessen that as an issue, it could be combined with the bulkheads. I also love the idea of running the bow pushrod and retract tube under the deck and keeping it as one piece. This is really good stuff! How would this interfere with subs setup for torpedoes?
          I do not think it solves the fat finger room space I experience in mine, but it does clean up the area. Thinking about it, there are areas that could fix the need for fat fingers even reaching in there. Currently I put a dab of RTV at the end of my dog bone that connects to the propellor end. So when I slide my SD in, they are already in position. Could that be improved, maybe, what about a magnet in the head of the dog bone....hmmm, I need to play with this idea. If guides were added for the rudder and aft planes, then those would never fall down, no need for fat fingers to reach in there (although I use hemostats). I should play with mine to see what I could do. There is a lot that can be done. I wish Revell would re-introduce the Gato. There are still plenty floating around, but that will get scarcer as time goes by, don't you think? Is the demand for the Gato still running high?

          I see there is an external booted switch on the end cap. Is that a master switch and the reed is on and off while assembled? I like the tray and reed switch for turning on and off. For that matter the booted switch could disappear entirely and use magnets for on and off. In place of the booted switch, what if the reed switch was mounted there on the inside (no drilling and RTV or failure of rubber boot) a magnet could be moved close to it, like I made the forward capstan on mine turn on the lights (but I am sure David would make it slicker), it would then be the on/off switch. On top of that, when the deck is removed it would be a safety. However, if you forget to put the screw in to secure to the deck, it would turn into a liability out on the lake. Still, I would be happy with a reed switch inside the end cap.
          I am rambling, sorry.

          Gene is a legend in my eye, very cool.
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment

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