New Toy For The Swimming Pool

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  • rwtdiver
    Vice Admiral

    • Feb 2019
    • 1894

    #46
    I am designing my own waterproof passthrough from my battery box to the electronics box. The photo below shows what I have planned.

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    I will bore holes, one for the positive and one for the negative wires to pass through from one box into the second box with a waterproof XT60 for disconnecting.

    I will bore a 3/16" hole in each of the boxes, two holes per box. Install short pieces of 3/16" brass tubing in each hole secured with CA adhesive. 14 GA wire with silicone covering fit very nug inside the brass tubing, then I will slide a piece of silicone tubing that fits snuggly on the silicone wire and the brass tubing. Very tight fit and I am quite sure it will be leak proof..

    I may also add additional silicone sealant at the points where the brass tubing exists the box wall.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."








    Last edited by rwtdiver; 01-18-2025, 05:59 PM. Reason: Additional info...

    Comment

    • Marylandradiosailor
      Lieutenant, Junior Grade

      • Nov 2021
      • 45

      #47
      Originally posted by rwtdiver
      I have a question?


      Are the XT60 plugs when connected waterproof? (1 foot underwater)


      No.

      However there are XT60W which have a rubber sealing ring as per photograph (google XT60W). I use these on my battery box.

      This only seals the mating ends of the connector and the back where the wires are soldered must still be covered with heatshrink and then sealed against water. I use multiple coats of liquid rubber.

      Khim
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      Comment

      • Das Boot
        Rear Admiral

        • Dec 2019
        • 1328

        #48
        That component box is great looking.
        Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

        Comment

        • rwtdiver
          Vice Admiral

          • Feb 2019
          • 1894

          #49
          I have started the process of installing the thruster motors.

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          The thruster mounting brackets are now installed with stainless screws and nuts Ounce in place there is another hold down bracket (not shown) that will secure the thruster to the mount. The thrusters can be removed for repairs or replacement.

          Rob
          "Firemen can stand the heat."

          Comment

          • DrSchmidt
            Rear Admiral

            • Apr 2014
            • 1177

            #50
            That's a nice design.....I like it!

            Comment

            • rwtdiver
              Vice Admiral

              • Feb 2019
              • 1894

              #51
              Originally posted by DrSchmidt
              That's a nice design.....I like it!
              Hi Andreas,

              Thank you very much sir. I wish I could take credit for all of it, but majority of the design was built into the STL files. The designer's name is Kees, and he is from your corner of the world the Netherlands. The only thing I changed was adding the stainless steel screws and using nuts in place of the brass inserts.

              Rob
              "Firemen can stand the heat."

              Comment

              • rwtdiver
                Vice Admiral

                • Feb 2019
                • 1894

                #52
                Before I can bring the main body parts together, I need to mount the thruster bracket's (completed) and open up the gill slots.

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                By opening up the gill slots my hopes it will allow more thrust to get this beast moving.

                Rob
                "Firemen can stand the heat."

                Comment

                • rwtdiver
                  Vice Admiral

                  • Feb 2019
                  • 1894

                  #53
                  About ready to close up the main part of the hull.

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                  Before I glue the main hull together, I still have one more thing necessary and that is install the taps with the 3M brass inserts so that I can attach the head of the shark to the body. The head will be secured to the main body using 3M screws. This will give me access to the thrusters if it is ever needed.

                  Rob
                  "Firemen can stand the heat."

                  Comment

                  • rwtdiver
                    Vice Admiral

                    • Feb 2019
                    • 1894

                    #54
                    The above two photos and ideas did not pan out for me. this body section was designed with the tab as part of the printed piece. The tabs just made it to long for the "Z" height to fit in the printer. Therefore, the designer produced files for the tabs that would later be glued onto the body section. Sorry to say it was a real pain in the you know what. Try as I may I could not get them to line up for a good fit. Plus, I did not want the screws because of the look...

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                    I have gone ahead and bonded the two sections together. I am seriously considering bonding (gluing) the head onto this section. But, before I make this decision I want to make sure the motors (thrusters) work perfectly.

                    We are making progress. Next will be the large aft section to fit and glue to the piece in the photo above.

                    Rob
                    "Firemen can stand the heat."

                    Comment

                    • Rick Teskey
                      Commander

                      • Jan 2009
                      • 259

                      #55
                      Sweet! What is thruster dia?

                      Comment

                      • rwtdiver
                        Vice Admiral

                        • Feb 2019
                        • 1894

                        #56
                        Originally posted by Rick Teskey
                        Sweet! What is thruster dia?
                        Hi Rick,

                        It's moving along quite well. When I started this project, I knew it was going to be an experiment as to performance. But, being me I always like to stick myself into the unknown, but for me it's the trip getting there as much as the final results.

                        Amazon.com: XHSESA 12V-24V 20A Underwater Thruster Motor 4 Blades Propeller Propulsion 30-200W Part for ROV RC Bait Tug Boat (clockwise Motor+1pc counterclockwise Motor) : Toys & Games

                        I purchased them on Amazon, and the information is in the above web site.

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat."

                        Comment

                        • rwtdiver
                          Vice Admiral

                          • Feb 2019
                          • 1894

                          #57
                          I have also started on some of the electrical.

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                          The wiring in the photo is going to the thrusters. The exterior portion of the box is complete, I still have some work on the interior to seal it up even better. (No Leaks Here)

                          Rob
                          "Firemen can stand the heat."

                          Comment

                          • trout
                            Admiral

                            • Jul 2011
                            • 3633

                            #58
                            Rob, keep plugging along. It is fun to watch your come to life.
                            Peace,
                            tom
                            If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                            Comment

                            • rwtdiver
                              Vice Admiral

                              • Feb 2019
                              • 1894

                              #59
                              Originally posted by trout
                              Rob, keep plugging along. It is fun to watch your come to life.
                              Peace,
                              tom
                              Hi Tom,

                              Got to say this has been one of the most challenging 3D builds I have ever done. Issues at every turn for sure. As you say sir, I will keep plugging along.

                              Comment

                              • rwtdiver
                                Vice Admiral

                                • Feb 2019
                                • 1894

                                #60
                                This morning at 2:00 AM I made the decision that I have to have a way of getting into the thrusters for repairs or replacement.

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                                So cleaned up the old tab locations reprinted new tabs and reglued them into place. As you can see, I did not use the brass inserts this time around (They were a pain in the you nowhere) Just could get them to line up properly to the screw holes in the shark head. So I am using a standard threaded screws and no nut or brass insert, just the threads.

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                                After driving the screw in (and cutting a thread) I took the screw out I then applied thin CA to each of the holes to secure the thread itself. I most likely will not be removing the head at all, but if I need to, I believe I have a good method for removal. When the shark is painted the screws will hardly be noticed. Another issue solved. :-))

                                Rob
                                "Firemen can stand the heat."

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