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We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:
1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.
2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.
3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.
4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.
5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.
6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
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1:96 Scale Russian Kilo Kit Build
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Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post
The existing hull separation follows the lower sonar dome window outline which makes hiding the seam easy.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!
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I have another question as to the type of adhesive I should use on the fiberglass Kilo hull? It seems to be fiberglass and resin construction. I will be gluing the stern section, which is a David M. cast type structure to the fiberglass hull. This is all new to me. I could not find it specifically in my Diving Deep book.
Romel, thank you for the Kilo sketch that you posted in the above photo in your post.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Last edited by rwtdiver; 01-20-2022, 07:13 PM.
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Originally posted by rwtdiver View PostI have another question as to the type of adhesive I should use on the fiberglass Kilo hull? It seems to be fiberglass and resin construction. I will be gluing the stern section, which is a David M. cast type structure to the fiberglass hull. This is all new to me. I could not find it specifically in my Diving Deep book.
Romel, thank you for the Kilo sketch that you posted in the above photo in your post.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/gener...-s-work/page55“Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”
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Originally posted by Das Boot View PostCheck out the bottom part of this post.
https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/gener...-s-work/page55
Thank you for finding Davids work and posting it up for me. Appreciate the help.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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I got brave and made the hull bow cut!
As you can see by the photos, this cut makes a much cleaner joint. I will use fiberglass and resin on the inside of the hull to secure the cut piece. I will them use Bodo to fill the gaps, and sand it to the contour of the bow. To me this is going to make a much tighter seam between the top and bottom hull sections.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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Now that I have the bottom and top hull sections of the Kilo lined up, it was time to fit the WTC!
The WTC that I ordered for the Kilo kit is going to be a problem to fit into the Kilo hull. As it sits now without any cradles (except the one forward) it is sitting on the floor of the bottom hull, you can see it won't close down. If I push the WTC forward to make the stern rest down, then the WTC is to far forward to fit into the bow properly to be able to have any forward dive planes at all. This WTC is not a good fit for the Kilo 1:96 scale kit! Plus the fact if I cannot use any cradles in the hull, it will be a problem with ballast weights in the bottom.
As you can see by the photo above the 70 mm WTC is as perfect fit for my 3D printed Russian Alfa.
As for the Kilo kit, I may try to make the 70 mm WTC fit and not have any forward dive plains. Not sure at this point. May design and build my own WTC for the Kilo!?!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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Rob,
The 70mm unit does fit in the Kilo, but it's tight, as you say. That cylinder actually has a lot of wasted space both in the battery and electronics compartments. You can easily shave about an inch from each, particularly if you take the time to reorganize the motor compartment.
In regard to bow planes, you'd absolutely want to install a servo in the battery compartment. Then it's just a straight shot out the front to the planes (albeit taking a detour up and around for Kilo).
Bob
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Originally posted by SubHuman View PostRob,
The 70mm unit does fit in the Kilo, but it's tight, as you say. That cylinder actually has a lot of wasted space both in the battery and electronics compartments. You can easily shave about an inch from each, particularly if you take the time to reorganize the motor compartment.
In regard to bow planes, you'd absolutely want to install a servo in the battery compartment. Then it's just a straight shot out the front to the planes (albeit taking a detour up and around for Kilo).
Bob
I will find a way to make things work! As for the forward dive planes, I was thinking their location was more to the center of the hull (my bad for not studying the photos) I will get a servo mounted somewhere to make them work. As for cutting into the WTC cylinder, that is not going to happen!
The 70 mm WTC is also going to be used on my Alfa. This whole concept of using fiberglass and resin, and casting hulls is not for me. I do not have a shop with the proper tooling or the space. I also cannot work with those type of materials without a lot of cover up. I have LEARNED my lesson well on this one! I take FULL responsibility for my purchase on the Kilo kit, I will do what I can with it and move on.
3D PRINTING ONLY for me from now on!!!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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