Russian Alfa Class

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Print another one in 1/144 and you can then nestle them one in another like those Matryoshka dolls. Lol.

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  • CC Clarke
    replied
    It's not the reinforced areas you need to worry about as much when it comes to heat and PLA. The less reinforced sections, (especially the areas surrounding the MBT grates) will deform very easily, and ripple outwards circumferentially. Don't ask me how I know . . .

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  • SubDude
    replied
    Ahh...gotcha.

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  • SubDude
    replied
    Is the hull the typical Z split? If so should the bow be glued to the upper hull sections?

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Try doing that with a thrust bearing bulkhead installed Click image for larger version  Name:	20210725_155928.jpg Views:	0 Size:	82.6 KB ID:	152498
    Last edited by redboat219; 08-16-2021, 11:07 PM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    WOW! Not sure how I am to take those remarks!? Moving on!!

    Worked a little HARDER and got the upper and lower rudders and the dive plains all working on the 1:96 scale Alfa!



    Now I will have a 1:96 scale and a 1:72 scale Alfa building at the same time!!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"
    Excellent! If you can get linkages to work in the very tight confines of a 1/96 ALFA, you should never again be intimidated by the job of inter-connecting stern control surfaces, no matter the subject or size.

    If you get cocky, try this:








    David

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  • SubDude
    replied
    Success! Nicely done Rob. That does look tight in there.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    So, darling, you don't want to go out with me... is your Mom available tonight?

    Hey! Whatever works, pal. Fortune smiled on the propeller front I see.

    David

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver

    the bottom rudder is larger (1/2" wide to 1 1/8" wide!, wanted to increase the boats turning radius for use in my pool.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"
    As David mentioned in your Russian Borei build, you could use a clear rudder extension to increase you rudder's turning effect but keep everything "in scale".
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_47680.jpg Views:	0 Size:	94.7 KB ID:	152377

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Why don't I just send you a white-metal propeller designed for a 1/96 ALFA?

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    Today I finished up all the file prints, and have moved on to the stern section! I have made the decision to go full out on this boat! (Yes it will DIVE) I am totally ready for the plunge. (No pun intended)



    I have the brass pieces cut, and ready to install the sleeves and the shafts.





    As you can see, the bottom rudder is larger (1/2" wide to 1 1/8" wide! I know this is not to scale, but i wanted to increase the boats turning radius for use in my pool.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"
    Good call. Enlarging that rudder was the right move. This boat will be a screamer. Set your transmitters ch-3 end-point to 30% ahead-astern for starters. Increase as you get more cocky with this little rocket.

    David

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  • RCSubGuy
    replied
    Yes, this was orignially designed for 72nd scale, so thicker walls, but I've printed in 96t and the bulkheads make it plenty strong, even with the thinner walls.

    Bob

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  • Subculture
    replied
    The piston tank system is usually the simplest system of all. It generally has the fewest components and is very reliable in use. Many consider it complex, because unless the boat is large enough to house an Engel piston tank, you have to make it yourself.

    There's no mathematics needed for this area. Essentially what we are talking about is a law of physics first set down by a chap much older than any of us here- Archimedes of Syracuse (circa 200bc).

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    Sorry you guys! I did not mean to come off disrespectful to any of you! Sometimes with this hobby you can really get frustrated! Certainly did not mean to take out my frustrations on any of you! I understand you are just trying to help, and I do appreciate it!



    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"
    No sweat.

    Hey, Rob, I'm with you, pal. Basically I'm a non-math-seat-of-your-pants engineer. But, once you decide to do something professionally that requires some math and mechanical skills -- if you want the gig bad enough, you apply yourself and learn the math, and figure out the mechanics of those things you will be responsible for. Had to happen when you took on fire-fighting. And it happened to me when I became determined to qualify in submarines, and later join the diving community -- there ARE absolutes in those games!

    Thing is, with a hobby, you can flop around and do things so-so. No one dies or gets hurt (now that I think about that, I remember that I almost killed Gene Berger with some bad advice... but that's another story). Hobby mistakes are classroom lessons, not life altering tragedy. You lose a model submarine? So what, you still go home at night.

    Your ballast tank, if its close enough to get the boat under... good enough. In time you will come to realize the utility of a few basic principles, such as Andy posted here recently, and will learn to apply them to make your road just a little less rocky.

    David
    The Horrible

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  • Subculture
    replied
    That's a smidge under 100ml or 3.5 ounces. Small tank if correct, those prints must be quite a thin cross section? Add on ten per cent to account for changing densities if you want the capacity to trim for different water densities.

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