3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

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  • Subculture
    Admiral
    • Feb 2009
    • 2119

    Originally posted by bwi 971

    Will start filling up all the scribing lines today and start making my usual brass stencils.

    What it was good for was to use it as a drilling stencil for all the holes in the deck. Lessons learned.
    t







    Could you perhaps modify the tools to incorporate brass stencils in the critical areas, thus enabling the tools to hold the stencills in position? There is also some software out there that enables FDM printers to use non planar printing. It's a bit experimental though, although I'm sure it will eventually become a mainstream method of slicing. e.g.


    Comment

    • Groot689
      Lieutenant Commander
      • Mar 2016
      • 135

      For those who enjoy priming and sanding 3D printed hulls, read no further. This product is a real timesaver:
      I am new to 3D printing and hope to get more involved as I acquire more experience. Sanding and finishing the 3D printed item is not my favorite part of the process. This stuff looks like a game changer. Any application advice or is it as easy to apply as it appears? Thanks for the tip!

      Comment

      • Subculture
        Admiral
        • Feb 2009
        • 2119

        It's an epoxy resin. they may have add a thixotropic additive liked fumed silica to thicken it up a bit and improve anti-sag properties.

        Comment

        • CC Clarke
          Lieutenant Commander
          • Aug 2020
          • 239

          Originally posted by rwtdiver
          CCC,

          Thanks for posting the great information! Always looking for new products and better ways of finishing our 3D printed parts! I am assuming you could use a matt or flat clear coat to cut down the sheen if you did not want that high gloss finish left behind using the XTC-3D product?

          Rob
          Firemen can stand the heat"
          (Copied my unapproved post to reply Rob)

          Rob,

          The XTC-3D coating is only meant to cover any imperfections in the print, and as such, is not a substitute for painting. Once the epoxy cures, it can be minimally scuffed with sandpaper to allow maximum adhesion of any acrylic paint to obtain the desired finish.

          3D printers (and filament) are not created equal. Depending on configuration and settings, (nozzle bore, software, etc.) some printers produce layer print lines that require more (or less) time-consuming, mind-numbing sanding to obtain a smooth finish. This product, (which may be applied in layers) cuts down on the tedium allowing you to go from print to paint with a lot less time and effort.

          As stated before, other methods of smoothing, such as acetone vapor deposition, are not suitable for PLA (which many people use). This has a two-fold use for PLA, it seals the surface. Being a bio-degradable, plant-based plastic, PLA is susceptible to water, (though you would have to immerse it for a looong time) and this product deals with that. The biggest enemy of PLA is direct sun; it deforms with very little coaxing in just a few minutes. A heat-absorbing black hull doesn't help.

          Though more expensive and harder to print, (it needs a printer enclosure to maintain a higher ambient temperature for best results) ASA, followed by ABS is the optimum filament for RC submarines. The drawback to either filament is the toxic fumes they produce. There are a number of work-arounds for this; enhanced HEPA filtering, and ducts to direct the fumes elsewhere. For the majority of people printing, PLA is fine. It's cheap, non-toxic, and can be used on a less-expensive printer.

          CCC

          Comment

          • rwtdiver
            Vice Admiral
            • Feb 2019
            • 1770

            Originally posted by CC Clarke

            (Copied my unapproved post to reply Rob)

            Rob,

            The XTC-3D coating is only meant to cover any imperfections in the print, and as such, is not a substitute for painting. Once the epoxy cures, it can be minimally scuffed with sandpaper to allow maximum adhesion of any acrylic paint to obtain the desired finish.

            3D printers (and filament) are not created equal. Depending on configuration and settings, (nozzle bore, software, etc.) some printers produce layer print lines that require more (or less) time-consuming, mind-numbing sanding to obtain a smooth finish. This product, (which may be applied in layers) cuts down on the tedium allowing you to go from print to paint with a lot less time and effort.

            As stated before, other methods of smoothing, such as acetone vapor deposition, are not suitable for PLA (which many people use). This has a two-fold use for PLA, it seals the surface. Being a bio-degradable, plant-based plastic, PLA is susceptible to water, (though you would have to immerse it for a looong time) and this product deals with that. The biggest enemy of PLA is direct sun; it deforms with very little coaxing in just a few minutes. A heat-absorbing black hull doesn't help.

            Though more expensive and harder to print, (it needs a printer enclosure to maintain a higher ambient temperature for best results) ASA, followed by ABS is the optimum filament for RC submarines. The drawback to either filament is the toxic fumes they produce. There are a number of work-arounds for this; enhanced HEPA filtering, and ducts to direct the fumes elsewhere. For the majority of people printing, PLA is fine. It's cheap, non-toxic, and can be used on a less-expensive printer.

            CCC
            CC,

            Thank you for the great information! Very informative. Based on the above, it's sound as if a coating of the XTC-3D coating would enhance the ability of the PLA to be less susceptible to water intrusion!

            I most likely will try the XTC-3D and do some testing with my next 3D printed PLA sub build! I really do not want to work with any of the toxic fumes involved with the some of the filaments out there. My building space is in the interior of my home, and not a good place for toxic fumes!

            Thank you very much for the all the great information!

            Rob
            "Firemen can stand the heat"

            Comment

            • SubDude
              Captain
              • Dec 2019
              • 803

              If the fumes from printing ASA are toxic I sure can't smell any unless I stick my head in the enclosure. It doesn't stink up my basement at all.

              Comment

              • rwtdiver
                Vice Admiral
                • Feb 2019
                • 1770

                Originally posted by RCJetDude
                If the fumes from printing ASA are toxic I sure can't smell any unless I stick my head in the enclosure. It doesn't stink up my basement at all.
                Hi Steve,

                I just missed another Dive Tribe get together today! I miss read Bob's email! Thought it was 4:00 PM today (2:00 PM Arizona) Next time!!

                I am very happy with the white PLA (Solutech) that I use for my subs! What little time they do spend in the water (my swimming pool only) and with the resin I put through out the interior of the boat I have not had any water issues with the 15 to 20 min runs at all. All is well with the PLA for me. Plus my older Dremel does not handle the newer filaments. My Predator is border line with any other than PLA!

                If the day comes that I have to replace one of these printers I will for sure look into other possible types of filament.

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                It's all good! Hope you are staying safe and well Steve! Looking forward to the next Dive Tribe get together. If i learn to get my times together!! :-))

                Rob
                "Firemen can stand the heat"


                Comment

                • SubDude
                  Captain
                  • Dec 2019
                  • 803

                  Everyone prints with whatever they prefer. I was only stating that ASA doesn't give off toxic fumes that I have noticed. The heat resistance and how successfully I am printing with ASA is enough for me to not likely be going back to PLA+ anytime soon. It also bridges well and there is little if any stringing. I love the stuff. See you on the Dive Tribe in two weeks...

                  Comment

                  • Monahan Steam Models
                    Captain
                    • Apr 2020
                    • 755

                    Has anyone tried using ASA on a Dremel digilab 3D45 printer with good results?

                    Comment

                    • CC Clarke
                      Lieutenant Commander
                      • Aug 2020
                      • 239

                      Originally posted by RCJetDude
                      Everyone prints with whatever they prefer. I was only stating that ASA doesn't give off toxic fumes that I have noticed. The heat resistance and how successfully I am printing with ASA is enough for me to not likely be going back to PLA+ anytime soon. It also bridges well and there is little if any stringing. I love the stuff. See you on the Dive Tribe in two weeks...
                      Noticed or not, the toxicity associated with ABS / ASA / Nylon is well known. It is best used in a ventilated environment. YMMV. Where I work, we cannot print either without a fume extractor to comply with health and safety regulations. At home, obviously you can do anything you want.

                      CCC

                      Comment

                      • RCSubGuy
                        Welcome to my underwater realm!
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 1768

                        Originally posted by Monahan Steam Models
                        Has anyone tried using ASA on a Dremel digilab 3D45 printer with good results?
                        I dont' think the 3D45 build plate goes up high enough to make for good adhesion and non-warping. I have two. I can try!

                        Bob

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