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3D Printed Submarine Build with 2.5" Sub-Driver

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  • 3D Printed Submarine Build with 2.5" Sub-Driver

    This is going to be a new 3D printed submarine build using one of the two 3D STL files that I purchased from Nautilus Drydocks. The 2.5" Sub-Driver is coming and was sent to me from David Merriman. (Thank you David) My intent is to build the SIZE of the chosen Sub by possibly decreasing the size of the 3D STL files so that it will be a perfect match for the SD. To be determined after seeing the SD.

    A new adventure about to begin! I will really need some help with setting up the SD. The electronics (servos, ESC, receiver, battery and linkages) will not be a problem, but the ballast system will be another learning process for me. I do believe the SD will be arriving today, and if so I will put up some photos of it.

    Thanks....

    Rob

    "There are no mistakes-just happy accidents"

  • #2
    After you inspect the MSD, Rob: ask specific questions and I'll answer them here, point-by-point. Concurrently, Bob Martin (Mr. Nautilus Drydocks himself) will be generating both written and a video 'Operators Manual' to assist others who operate this system. Bob and I can anticipate most questions, but it will be guys like you, Tom, and a few select others, who will hit us with the questions, and problems we might overlook. So. Looking forward to your WIP's, Rob.

    David
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

    Comment


    • #3
      The long time anticipated MSD (Modular Sub-Driver) has arrived! It is intact, and looks to be in really good shape. Very impressive piece of equipment! This particular unit is 2,5" Dia. with a length of 23". The center ballast unit is 2.5" X 8".

      Now, this is where I will need to bring in those that can determine if either one of my 1:96 scale existing 3D printed Submarines (Astute & Redoutable) are a good fit for this MSD!

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      As you can see by the photo of the Astute there is not a lot of room for the control surface linkages or the drive line shaft. This boat was designed and built around a 3" sub-driver!

      The 1:96 scale Redoutable on the other hand seems to be a better fit, but it may be to big for the 2.5" MSD?

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      Again the Redoutable was also designed around a 3" sub-driver. This sub could be to big for this ballast on the 2.5" MSD!
      Now! With this in mind, if I am going to do this project I want the boat to be a PERFECT fit for this 2.5" MSD! When I say fit, I mean not only the correct size, but also performance! To re-scale and build another redoutable might be the best way to go if I want this project to be right all the way around!! And that is NO problem...

      Rob

      "There are no mistakes-just happy accidents"

      Comment


      • #4
        By-the-way, the other reason I most likely will not use my existing Redoutable is one of them "Dumb A++" things I did when I was building this boat as a surface runner only! The upper rudder and both stern dive plains are glued in permanent! It only had the bottom rudder working! That would mean I would have to cut the existing stern from the boat off and manufacture another one so that I have all the control surfaces operating correctly!

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        Decision time at this point!

        Rob

        "There are no mistakes-just happy accidents"





        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post
          By-the-way, the other reason I most likely will not use my existing Redoutable is one of them "Dumb A++" things I did when I was building this boat as a surface runner only! The upper rudder and both stern dive plains are glued in permanent! It only had the bottom rudder working! That would mean I would have to cut the existing stern from the boat off and manufacture another one so that I have all the control surfaces operating correctly!

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          Decision time at this point!

          Rob

          "There are no mistakes-just happy accidents"




          I might have a fix for that, Rob.

          If you CA'ed those control surfaces at the hinge/bearing points (where else?) you can 'shatter' the joint free from a shock-strike with small hammer. One liability of cyanoacrylate adhesive is its susceptibility to shock loads -- the glue will fracture. You might get away with minimal damage at the hinge/bearing points between stabilizers and control surfaces. Give it a shot, pal. You have my permission to take a hammer to that bad-boy.

          Rotsa Ruck!

          Do it, post pictures of the damage, and I'll outline a methodology to rebuild the carnage. Don't be a slave to that god-damned robot 3D printer-from-hell.

          David
          gleefully authorizing a hammer tweak
          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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          • #6
            I am closing this blog out! Not doing project...

            Rob

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            • #7
              As a side note: The 2.5" MSD reference in this blog was sent to me by David Merriman at no charge. As of this date it has been sent back to David....

              Rob

              NOTE: I am done here!!!!

              Comment


              • #8
                OK! I am backing off this blog and starting a new one! It will be inline with 3D Printing submarines and there components!

                Rob

                Side note: Lesson really learned!!!!
                Last edited by rwtdiver; 03-18-2020, 06:40 PM.

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