Surface runner submarine setup

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Here is the completed receiver and antenna fabricated and installed to the base plate. I still need to fit the battery pack and install the ESC (electronic speed control) to the base.

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    Now it's time to get started on the wiring!

    Rob T.

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  • rwtdiver
    replied

    Thank you Bob!

    I was able to get a little more preliminary work done on the WTC unit. Lining up the servo connecting rods along with servo mount and the motor mount. Designed the receiver and ant. compartment.


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    It's all comming together, but still have a lot more to do!

    Rob T.

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  • RCSubGuy
    replied
    Looking professional and well thought out so far. I like it!

    BOB

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I am making progress on my 3D printed WTC components. It's in the design and set up at this point

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    I have most of the components printed out that is required for mounting the propulsion system, and the electronics. The end caps are 3D printed to fit with seals to
    the 3" plexiglass cylinders. Project moving along.

    Rob T.






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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott T
    Hey you don't want to loose your chariots in the red sea do ya!
    I always fast-forward through that part.

    David

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  • Scott T
    replied
    Hey you don't want to loose your chariots in the red sea do ya!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    No problem: you are operating in a very controlled environment. Ballast the boat so only the tip of the sail projects into the air -- very little speed required to give the stern planes the authority to control depth. And when that upper rudder hits the drink you greatly increase the yaw authority. Also, as the sail (typically ahead of the c.g.) makes the boat unstable in yaw when underwater you realize a further increase in yaw rate. All of a sudden a model that would not make the turn in the pool while surfaced will do so submerged.

    Hear me... and obey!




    David
    The Horrible

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Hi David,

    Thanks for all your help and advice! Our pool is not very long, and the only reason I am building the Redoutable as a surface runner is because of it's length, the size of it's dive planes, and the length of our pool.
    To be able to get up enough speed so that you could dynamic dive this boat I would most likely drive the bow into the side of the pool!

    How ever the Astute on the other hand might be a very good candidate for dynamic diving, and I will pursue that for sure. Thank you again for all your help!

    "Love This Hobby"

    Rob T.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Rob, you're killing me!!!! All that work to JUST make them surface runners?? You are 90% there with a WTC, why not drop the other shoe and at least make them dynamic divers -- only thing you need do is add stern planes and an angle-keeper and add fixed ballast weight till the thing floats, 'decks awash'. Don't make me come over there!!!!…..

    The pictures came out great, by the way. Keep 'em coming.

    David
    The Horrible

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I am going to put up some photos of my two 3D printed Submarines! The Astute and the Redoutable! The photos at this point are random photos that show some of the building process to this point in time!
    From this date forward I will be showing my progress on the rest of the building of both boats.

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    The above photos show 3D printed sections, the final glue up, and the SEM primer coat! The Astute at this point is far from finished.

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    The above photos are showing the 3D printed sections, the top of the hull glued up, the inner side of the top hull with the red oxide primer finish, and the last photo is the
    top and bottom of the Redoutable hull.

    As you can see both boats are not even close to being finished! From this point on I will be showing the progress in the rest of the build. I am designing a WTC that will be inner changeable with
    both boats. Keep in mind both these boats will be surface runners.

    I will be posting a lot more on these two builds!

    Thank you!

    Rob T.

    Attached Files

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Thank you very much Dave! I am still learning how to do the photos.. I know now I need to stay with my Olympus camera TOTALY in order to change the size of the photos.
    Thanks again Dave, I really appreciate the input!

    Rob T.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Your photos came across fine, but they are terribly small. Go for a bigger pixel count.

    David

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Hi David! You are correct about the sanding process on 3D printed projects! If done correctly a little sanding and some good quality filler primer and the finish comes out very good. Using PLA to build the Submarine will require some filler/sealer not only for finish, but also to help seal the PLA from possible water penetration!

    Note: I am just getting used to using this site and incorporating photos! Not sure if I am doing it correctly or not!?

    Rob T.

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Thanks Tom! Really appreciate the welcome!

    To start with I thought I would show the 3D printing process including the machines that I used to do my two builds!

    I have the ANYCUBIC Predator for my larger builds, and the Dremel 3040 for the smaller parts!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    … building 3D printed submarines.

    No. You sand 3D printed submarines.

    David

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