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  • redboat219
    replied
    David,
    Did Ellie ever mentioned to you the myth or urban legend in the Philippines regarding the special ingredient used in "shu pow"?

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    Shu pow, eggroll, pork-adobo, sweet-rice, monkey-on-a-stick (or so she said) ...
    My faves too.
    I'm guessing monkey-on-a stick is Filipino pork BBQ.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219

    What did Ellie cook, Adobo?
    Shu pow, eggroll, pork-adobo, sweet-rice, monkey-on-a-stick (or so she said) ...

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    Yeah. Happens when an idiot male cooks for himself for a couple of years -- I miss Filipino chow!

    David
    What did Ellie cook, Adobo?

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by SteveNeill
    Great work David. It's keeping you young and fit! You look great!
    Yeah. Happens when an idiot male cooks for himself for a couple of years -- I miss Filipino chow!

    David

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  • SteveNeill
    replied
    Great work David. It's keeping you young and fit! You look great!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    David Jakobs (Jake) is all but done with the assembly of one of those very rare and beautiful Ray Mason Disney NAUTILUS'. Here it is in primer gray. This weekend we trim it out in my test tank and get it operational, then finally a proper paintjob. But first... a few missing details.

    .


    ​​
    Missing were several closed-chocks and bollard pairs; deck items used to fairlead and tie up to a pier or to make fast small boats and fenders alongside. Since these were needed in some quantity Jake enlisted my aid: I would make a rubber casting tool from his little brass bollard and closed-chock masters, then cast up the required quantity of each from white metal.







    From the last Groton SUBEX 23 regatta I took back a friends two old WTC's we produced years back -- one had a cracked Lexan cylinder that was leaking water into a dry space; and another WTC that had servo, ballast, and motor problems. Just fixed them both up and working to get them back to their owner in time for upcoming summer boat runs. The 2.5" diameter WTC runs his 1/144 SEAWOLF, and the smaller 2" diameter WTC works his 1/144 KILO. Both fixed and ready to be shipped.





    One of the three ganged-together micro servos had gone sour, so that compelled me to break the three servos apart (I glued them together) and install a new servo to replace the broken one. That one task required removing all the devices and linkage elements. What a chore! While I was at it I replaced the original pushrod seals with the 'new-and-improved' pushrod seals I developed recently. I also replaced the bum Lipo-Guard battery protection device; and re-set the ESC. And the low pressure blower electronic switch had burned out, that was replaced as well.





    The 2.5" diameter WTC got a replacement clear Lexan cylinder to replace the original, which had cracks in it. Here I've finished a 24-hour annealing in the kitchen oven.



    I populated the new, annealed cylinder with all the original goodies from the old cylinder. Leak checked it, and it's good to go.



    Did some more work on the below waterline weathering of my long suffering 1/72 THRESHER. Will this beast ever be done?!???!!!!....















    ​​

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied















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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by RCSubGuy

    My 250 Series SubDriver fits nicely.

    The kit parts are sufficient to modify for RC operation by anyone with basic skills. Brass props are readily available.
    Do you have a photo of the 250 in place?

    Maybe someone would 3D print a new fittings kit.
    Last edited by redboat219; 06-08-2023, 01:32 PM.

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  • RCSubGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Das Boot
    Too bad no one makes the kits for the Seaview rc anymore.
    My 250 Series SubDriver fits nicely.

    The kit parts are sufficient to modify for RC operation by anyone with basic skills. Brass props are readily available.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    Hi David,

    Just a short note to you!

    Well done on our 6-3-2023 Dive Tribe! I missed the meeting, but I went to the re-play. Your information was very good, and your presentation was excellent!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"
    Thanks, Rob. I had plenty of time to prepare the 'soldering' segment, but only a day to cobble together the 'how to salvage a model submarine' talk, so that half of the program was a bit ragged, but I think I got the main points across. And kudos to Bob for seamlessly sliding those pictures in during the talks -- big aids as I described process and pointed out details. Pictures ARE worth thousands of words.

    David

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Hi David,

    Just a short note to you!

    Well done on our 6-3-2023 Dive Tribe! I missed the meeting, but I went to the re-play. Your information was very good, and your presentation was excellent!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    David, Thank you for the explanation on the endocarp repair. You mention petroleum on the o-rings, is that what you found?
    Very minor leaking from one of the three pushrod seals, and significant leaking from one of the shaft seals. As a matter of course, I replaced all seals. Tested and there were no leaks to the repaired motor-bulkhead.

    For long service life of Buno rubber elements, I advocate silicon oil/grease. Over time hydrocarbon lubricants harden and break down the rubber.

    David

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  • Das Boot
    replied
    Too bad no one makes the kits for the Seaview rc anymore.

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  • trout
    replied
    David, Thank you for the explanation on the endocarp repair. You mention petroleum on the o-rings, is that what you found?

    Leave a comment:

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