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Below Waterline Uneven Bleaching Weathering Effect

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  • Below Waterline Uneven Bleaching Weathering Effect

    Careful masking, stippling on some toothpaste (a water-soluble masking medium), then over-painting with a very thinned out white are the first steps to achieve that broken 'bleached' out look of the below waterline areas of the hull. Once you give the paint a few minutes to harden the work is scrubbed with a damp rag, which melts and pulls away the toothpaste leaving a very hard-edged broken pattern. A bit more of the white to soften things up a bit, followed by some green sprayed around the waterline, and you're done with the basic bleaching effect.

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    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:27 AM.
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  • #2
    David,

    As usual, very nice work.

    One question though. In picture #8 you show what I believe is the standard 3M painter's masking tape. But in pictures #6 and #7 you show some blue "clingy stuff" for the masking. Is that the 3M tape too or is something else used?

    Thanks,

    Dan
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    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:27 AM.
    Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

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    • #3
      Yeah, that's more of the same. I get this low-tack masking tape from Lowe's over here in Virginia Beach. Note that I cut out portions of the tape with the aid of special stencils cut from plastic -- each stencil for a specific tight radius masking task, like the bow, stern, and the upper rudders for the 212.

      Even though I employ automotive paints and clear-coat systems I endeavor to use as low a tack tape as possible for the job, minimizing the chances of pulling paint when I remove the masking tape.

      David,
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      Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:27 AM.
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      • #4
        which pictures show the masking and the toothpaste, pre white paint?
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        Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:27 AM.
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        • #5
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          Originally posted by Albion View Post
          which pictures show the masking and the toothpaste, pre white paint?
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          Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
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          • #6
            source of plastic stencils?

            Originally posted by Merriman View Post
            -- each stencil for a specific tight radius masking task, like the bow, stern, and the upper rudders for the 212.
            David,
            David,

            Do you create these stencils freehand or perhaps from the full scale drawings of the particular boat or from a set of French curves or ...?

            I can see that once you have the plastic stencil you place it on top of the blue tape and with a very sharp blade cut out the tape. Is that about it?

            Dan
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            Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
            Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by roedj View Post
              David,

              Do you create these stencils freehand or perhaps from the full scale drawings of the particular boat or from a set of French curves or ...?

              I can see that once you have the plastic stencil you place it on top of the blue tape and with a very sharp blade cut out the tape. Is that about it?

              Dan
              You got it, Dan. For those very tight radius turns the masking tape has to make, I pre-cut the masking tape on a big cutting-board (a sheet of .040" styrene sheet), to the shape of the cutting stencil. The stencil shape is determined through trial and error: I'll make an initial stencil, cut out some tape and see if the tape will conform to the compound curves of the model. If not, and I rarely get it right the first time, I note where the tape fails to conform to the required track, and make a new stencil that incorporates changes to account for problem area -- typically I'll make three or four stencils till I come up with one that produces a mask that easily conforms to the curves on the model and holds to the line/edge required for proper masking.

              You can't loft off a set of drawings as they typically present orthographic projections from atop, the side, and sectional. Such two-dimensional illustrations present us a projected, not a developed, shape. As the eventual mask has to account for the three-dimensional compound curves of a physical model, the two-dimensional projections from the drawing are useless in manufacture of the stencils. An exception are drawings that also incorporate buttock and waterlines -- those drawings will permit you to plot out a masking stencil, but only after considerable effort. I find it easier to work the stencils through the above trial and error method.
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              Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
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              • #8
                David,

                Yes, I imagined it would be tough creating a mask for a 3D object from a 2D drawing.

                But I see you've started another "masking" thread. Thanks for sharing.

                Dan
                ________
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                Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
                Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by roedj View Post
                  David,

                  Yes, I imagined it would be tough creating a mask for a 3D object from a 2D drawing.

                  But I see you've started another "masking" thread. Thanks for sharing.

                  Dan
                  God Damit, Dan! It's the above type post we're trying to eliminate here at the SubDriver forum -- no information conveyed, no valid questions asked.

                  You people: Enough of the 'thanks for sharing', 'nice job', 'LOL' bull-****-posts to otherwise useful threads. What I demand from you people are useful pieces of information and/or well thought out and practical questions; I am so sick and tired of looking at other forum threads that are vast in number of postings, yet are almost always dirt-poor in useful content. That won't happen here!

                  The next empty, flacid, useless post I see here I'll jump onto an airplane, come to your house, grab your keyboard, and will beat you to death with it!

                  How come you SOB's are hanging around the computer and not in the shop sticking something together anyway?! What's wrong with you people!?

                  Oh, yeah ...

                  ... Happy Easter.

                  David,
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                  Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
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                  • #10
                    showing respect

                    David,

                    Please understand that I do not want to clutter up the forums either but being the product of 12 years of being taught by Storm Troopers dressed in nun's garb has ingrained in me the response to instinctively say "please", "thank you" and to show total respect for one's elders.

                    Mea maxima culpa,

                    Dan
                    ________
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                    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
                    Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by roedj View Post
                      David,

                      Please understand that I do not want to clutter up the forums either but being the product of 12 years of being taught by Storm Troopers dressed in nun's garb has ingrained in me the response to instinctively say "please", "thank you" and to show total respect for one's elders.

                      Mea maxima culpa,

                      Dan
                      Oh! Dear! Obviously someone stood on His Worship's Easter eggs this morning! Grumpy ol' sod, isn't he! And Dan was just trying to be 'nice'.
                      ________
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                      Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
                      Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

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                      • #12
                        Is the white water based, or enamel or acrylic? And i guess very very thin. Nearly got tHresher back to this statge now. Been travelling a lot, got folks staying, so no time for fun :( Several layers already on the upper surfaces so was starting to lose details. So i cleaned off all the topside paint save where it met the lower hull and sanded back
                        ________
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                        Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:28 AM.
                        Next time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:pop

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Albion View Post
                          Is the white water based, or enamel or acrylic? And i guess very very thin. Nearly got tHresher back to this statge now. Been travelling a lot, got folks staying, so no time for fun :( Several layers already on the upper surfaces so was starting to lose details. So i cleaned off all the topside paint save where it met the lower hull and sanded back
                          Giving your THRESHER another go? Good man! Glad to see that ass-kicking I sent your way inspired you to make a better job of the weathering job.

                          The very, very thinly cut white was the same two-part polyurethane painting system I used for the base colors. Over here its produced by the DuPont company under the trade name, ChromaColor. Expensive, but very quick drying/curing, very very opaque, and tough as nails when hardened. If you use too much thinner on this coat you risk burning the underlying paint, so it's a good idea to cut the white with a clear-coat system -- ChromaClear is a compatible system you can cut into the ChromaColor.

                          But, you can certainly use a water soluble paint over the stippled on toothpaste masking if you wish.

                          Please tell me you've dusted off an old, never-to-be-finished hull and are using it as a test-article to experiment on before committing your weathering mediums and techniques on the THRESHER?!

                          David,
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                          Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:29 AM.
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                          • #14
                            dont have any other hulls!!!!! But i do have a piece of drain piping, which is hull sized :)
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                            Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:29 AM.
                            Next time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:pop

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                            • #15
                              Perfect. Paint the drain-pipe the models base colors (black and anti-foul red if used). You can now use that drain pipe as a test-article on which to practice and refine your weathering techniques and determine which mediums and tools are best suited for specific jobs.

                              Oh, and when I say 'black': I mean very, very dark gray -- no man made thing painted black is totally black. It's always a shade of gray. This reality is particularly noticeable on models. The smaller the scale, the lighter the apparent 'black' is.

                              Send pictures of your work. Don't be afraid ... I'll use the sharp knife.

                              David,
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                              Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-19-2011, 01:29 AM.
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