Working up the fittings kit for the Revell 1/72 Type-7

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  • pjdog
    Commander
    • Apr 2009
    • 302

    #46
    type-7 fittings kit

    I just realized that I don't have a fittings kit on order. The last posting showed me that the parts kit and fittings kit are different. I looked at the type-7 wolfpack and did not see a fittings kit.

    David and Mike will like us know when that part number is on the web page so we can place an order 'Right'. On this thread.

    Jack

    Comment

    • Kazzer
      *********
      • Aug 2008
      • 2848

      #47
      Mike,

      It's late Sunday night and I'm still making new masters and tools -- each time I think I'm finished, I find something new to add to the fittings kit. This has turned into a monster. But, it will be the answer for all those people who have been waiting for the 'ultimate' fittings kit to make their conversion of the Revell 1/72 Type-7 from a static only display piece into a working, fully capable r/c model submarine.

      Below is some eye-candy for our prospective customers:



      Even at this last hour I'm finding myself making tools to make this the most complete fittings kit possible.




      The test Type-7 kit outfitted with the Type-7 SubDriver and fittings kit, making it a proper r/c model submarine. The sail and deck are attached magnetically. All the control surface pushrods are attached mechanically. No tools are required to install or remove the sail, deck or SD.

      To push the two hull halves out the proper amount to make up to the removable deck I use five 'removable deck frames'. These fit along the length of the hull and not only give the proper shape to the hull to fit the deck, but also mount a magnet that makes up with a counter-part magnet attached to the bottom of the deck -- this is how the deck is secured to the hull without the need of tools.

      The single orange Velcro strap you see here is all that is needed to hold the SD in place within the hull. A single indexing pin passes through a hole in the bottom of the SD, fixing its position and preventing its movement within the hull


      Removable deck frames in place, ready to accept the deck. The sail, in turn, is magnetically mounted to the deck, as will the deck gun (not seen here).


      The rudder mechanism installed and working, you notice a deck securing magnet mounted within a raised foundation at the stern of the rudder foundation piece.

      Also note that I made practical use of the kits control surface support frames -- pins installed at the tips of the control surfaces pass through holes drilled into the tips of the support frames, forming practical steady bearings.








      The thrust loads (ahead and astern) are transmitted from the propeller shaft to the hull at the thrust bearings, mounted within the green cast resin bearing foundation. A thrust washer at the forward face of the wheel-collar puts the ahead load on the bearing and a thrust washer between the green coupler puts the astern load on the bearing.

      The running gear consists of the propeller, propeller shaft, bearings, couplers, intermediate drive shafts, motor extension shafts, seals and motors.


      The wet-side of the SD motor bulkhead. I want you to note the 'dumb-bell', used to bring the linear motion of the after facing SD pushrod up to a magnetic coupler that makes up to the forward running bow plane pushrod. You also see to good advantage the low pressure blower (LPB) manifold that directs the induction and discharge lines up to the externally and forward running flexible hoses that route induction air from atop the sail and discharge air into the ballast tank.



      Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

      Comment

      • Nuke Power
        Banned
        • Dec 2008
        • 277

        #48
        This thing was a monster with the flat blade rabosch props. Your conical blade should make it get up on a plane.

        Comment

        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Moderator
          • Aug 2008
          • 12313

          #49
          Originally posted by Rogue Sub
          This thing was a monster with the flat blade rabosch props. Your conical blade should make it get up on a plane.
          The more effecient the propulsion train, the more run time I get from a given battery capacity. It ain't the speed I'm after, it's the run time between battery swaps.

          David,
          Who is John Galt?

          Comment

          • pjdog
            Commander
            • Apr 2009
            • 302

            #50
            very impressive

            I think I see set screws on the props. I like that. Everything looks really good. Looking forward to the kit and another type-7 to put it in.

            jack

            Comment

            • pjdog
              Commander
              • Apr 2009
              • 302

              #51
              Something else I really like is the thrust bearings. Amateurs have trouble with things like that. I'm always getting CA on the bearing and then the shaft.

              jack

              Comment

              • Nuke Power
                Banned
                • Dec 2008
                • 277

                #52
                So you are not saying it will be a byproduct of your efforts?

                Comment

                • Kazzer
                  *********
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 2848

                  #53
                  I've updated the article from David and produced it as a pdf file. You can download it here.
                  Revell VII Fittings Kit Flyer
                  Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                  Comment

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