The Great British M1

[Kazzer]

A good photo of a museum model of the M1, showing a close-up of the gun. I'd love to get shots of the entire model.

[Kazzer]

Here is the M1 model up against the Revell VII. Both at 1:72 scale.

And another new photo of the M1 gun.

[Kazzer]

The rudder assembly isn't my real concern with this model. Although there isn't much height in the Ducks Tail, it is wide enough to place a servo arm to one side.


I decided to fix the conning tower today. Trimmed off the excess around the edges and then sanded them flat on a piece of 120 grit paper.

I taped the two halves together using electricians tape as it stretches well and pulls the parts together. I mixed up some epoxy resin and coated the inside along the joint, then mixed some CABOSIL into the remaining resin until it was a paste, then brushed a dab or two of that into the joint. The thickened resin fille the crevices pretty well. Tomorrow, I'll remove the tape and give the part a light sanding to remove spew etc.

[Nuke Power]

you can also get them at mcmastercarr

[toppack]

When there's absolutely no room for a tiller arm at rudder you may want to consider a Timing-Belt. There are teeth on the belt and in pulleys, so there is No slippage.
They are made in many sizes, including very small, like is needed in sub models.
The actual tiller is mounted further forward in hull, with a pulley on it's post, then the belt goes aft to the rudder post and it's pulley. The pulleys are very light weight aluminum, so this system doesn't add much weight but are very strong and reliable.
Here's a link to a company that sells belts and pulleys:
http://www.motionindustries.com/moti...ductSearch.jsp

Note: when trying this Link, directly to belt sub-catagory, it was extremly slow for some reason. you may have to go to their homepage and do a search by catagory.

[Tachikaze]

The positioning of the rudder is why the seperation of the hull is set up the way it is. The tiller on the rudder is only slightly longer than 1.0cm. The throw on the servo is about 1.5cm.
I have a similar problem on the Surcouf, not related to the length of the tiller arm, but finding a line on the boat to seperate her and still look good.

[Nuke Power]

that or a belt driven rudder. Atleast there is only one rudder.

[Albion]

looks the dive planes have good access, but rudder hmm


Looking at Tachikaze's M1 the hull cut needs to extend right back in order to reach the rudder.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400225

Sorry to post another forums (the RC groups loser forum) thread, but if you look here it is a 1/96 Gato hull which is also quite tight at the stern. look at how he arranged the rudder control with silver soldered post. might be whats needed here.

[Nuke Power]

Great you like the questions but provide no answers. Amazing you lived this long!

[Kazzer]

You need to provide more info to get a proper answer to that question mike...

What is the beam at maximum dia. what is the beam at the deck? What size sub driver are you planning? Is there room to get it in with the dogbones and linkages by sliding it in...etc. Who knows the best way might be like the engel boats where the whole front end is removed. You will need to experiment to find the best way. The hull looks very sleek but not very big. Some size comparison next to your gato would be great.

This is the stuff we need!

America and England, two nations divided by a common language, just wish my company allowed me to drop the US speel checker, "Supervize, Improvize" indeed.

Yes, those words irritate me too! Very sad! :eek:

[Nuke Power]

You need to provide more info to get a proper answer to that question mike...

What is the beam at maximum dia. what is the beam at the deck? What size sub driver are you planning? Is there room to get it in with the dogbones and linkages by sliding it in...etc. Who knows the best way might be like the engel boats where the whole front end is removed. You will need to experiment to find the best way. The hull looks very sleek but not very big. Some size comparison next to your gato would be great.

[Albion]

Pillock! From someone who is challenged by the spelling in the language too! See 'easyer' below. Why is it that most people educated in the USA can't spell worth a ****?
:)

Good grief! He thinks I may use an axe or a chainsaw to cut the hull? When what I'm after is, do I use the Z cut method, the standard 'top off with the forward end of the top attached', or something completely different? As usual, the horizontal cut would be at the waterline.

Sometimes asking questions isn't such a good thing!:)

I think method b based on what ive seen so far.

America and England, two nations divided by a common language, just wish my company allowed me to drop the US speel checker, "Supervize, Improvize" indeed.

BTW Axe is the way to goI'll drink to THAT!

[Kazzer]

:D LOL
And they keep telling me the English speak Our language! :D

Pillock! From someone who is challenged by the spelling in the language too! See 'easyer' below. Why is it that most people educated in the USA can't spell worth a ****?
:)

Of course the best place would be just below the superstructure, if that will make a large enough hole to stuff everything in.
If not, might as well make it at the widest part of the hull, where the hull is most vertical. A cut in a vertical wall is easyer to fit together with smaller gap, than a sloped wall.

Good grief! He thinks I may use an axe or a chainsaw to cut the hull? When what I'm after is, do I use the Z cut method, the standard 'top off with the forward end of the top attached', or something completely different? As usual, the horizontal cut would be at the waterline.

Sometimes asking questions isn't such a good thing!:)

[toppack]

:D LOL
And they keep telling me the English speak Our language! :D

Of course the best place would be just below the superstructure, if that will make a large enough hole to stuff everything in.
If not, might as well make it at the widest part of the hull, where the hull is most vertical. A cut in a vertical wall is easyer to fit together with smaller gap, than a sloped wall.

[Kazzer]

Mike,
I don't remember if you said, but is it made from Gel-coat on exterior, with fiberglass on inside?
That's what it looks like in pics.
If so, I would probably cut it with cut-off wheels that fit Dremel. The new diamond impregnated type. They make a very thin cut and don't brake like the old Dremel cut-off wheels. They did a great job on the FG T-class.
Steady hands or a holding fixture are required but these wheels cut so easy it's not too difficult to hold steady.
See Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-DIAMOND-CUT-O...3A1%7C294%3A50

Sorry Rick! By ' Any ideas on how you would cut the hull, please? ' I meant Where you would cut the hull, rather than how.