Kilo servo

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  • actioncia
    replied
    Re: Thanks

    Thank you Merriman and KevinMC

    That might be what I should have done in the first place. JC.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kazzer
    replied
    Originally posted by Merriman
    You're screwed.

    Ger a proper SubDriver for that thing.

    David,

    He is a GOD!

    Leave a comment:


  • KevinMc
    replied
    If nothing else, at least rotate the servos 180 deg in their mounts so the pivot point is as far as it can be from the bulkhead within your available space... It's not much, but every little bit helps!

    KMc

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by actioncia
    Everything is feed through the 1 3/4" Encap/ bulkhead seal, I reckon it would be hard for me to bring it any closer. JC.

    You're screwed.

    Ger a proper SubDriver for that thing.

    David,

    Leave a comment:


  • actioncia
    replied
    RE: Servo

    Everything is feed through the 1 3/4" Encap/ bulkhead seal, I reckon it would be hard for me to bring it any closer. JC.
    Attached Files

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Enjoy the moment, apprentice.

    Now, kiss the ring, rise, and leave the throne-room ... and don't make eye contact with me again, peasant, you are not worthy.

    David,

    Leave a comment:


  • Kazzer
    replied
    Originally posted by Merriman
    I assume there is a great deal of drag going through your pushrod seals as a consequence of the huge off-set between pushrod proper and the Y-bend to get the forward end of the pushrod to the servo output arm (bell-crank) -- the bending force and elasticity of the brass pushrod couple to bind at the seal, overloading the servo, destroying the gear-train.

    Replace the broken servo and get the servo physically closer to the longitudinal axis of the pushrod.

    David,
    Oh! Great One! Some of your magnificence must be rubbing off on me! Will I ever be as wonderful? I grovel in your presence!

    Here's what I suggested - "I might be wrong, but I suspect you have the servos too close to the end-cap, so they are forcing the push-rod side ways. This puts a lot of pressure on the gears.
    Post the picture on our forum, and ask the experts there if they like the way you’ve done it. And don’t be afraid if they speak their mind! :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by actioncia
    Good Day,

    I was just actuating my kilo the other day and one of the servo's gear is worn, Mike suggested that I post the layout of my Kilo for some expert's advice. Tks, JC
    I assume there is a great deal of drag going through your pushrod seals as a consequence of the huge off-set between pushrod proper and the Y-bend to get the forward end of the pushrod to the servo output arm (bell-crank) -- the bending force and elasticity of the brass pushrod couple to bind at the seal, overloading the servo, destroying the gear-train.

    Replace the broken servo and get the servo physically closer to the longitudinal axis of the pushrod.

    David,

    Leave a comment:


  • actioncia
    started a topic Kilo servo

    Kilo servo

    Good Day,

    I was just actuating my kilo the other day and one of the servo's gear is worn, Mike suggested that I post the layout of my Kilo for some expert's advice. Tks, JC
    Attached Files
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