Revell 1/72 Skipjack class USS Shark SSN591

[greenman407]

Bruce, If thats a Caswell ADF2 ,when you set it up according to the instructions, you can orient it anyway that you want when mounting it in the Subdriver. Its the setup that determines the direction the planes move when the bow dips. First things first. If you push the radio stick forward, the stern planes aft edge should drop. If it doesnt , then yes the servo needs to be reversed. If after that the ADF2 moves them the wrong way, then you need to go into the setup mode of the ADF2 again and reset it.

[alad61]

G'day Bruce,

I usually balance the sd to as it makes the rest easier. Having the boat sit with the sail planes just below the water is about right. That way all you need is a little down on the sail planes and just let the forward thrust do the rest. I have my throttle dialed in at 55% which I reckon gives a good scale speed. My boat, also named Shark, must be an Aussie thing, had tendencies to go under bow first but with a couple of extra vent holes just forward of the top rudder and now it settles nicely. Before you reverse your servo double check the adf as it may have been accidentally rotated. Reversing the servo won't make much of a difference if the adf is facing the wrong way. Trust me on this as I had buried the nose of my Robbe Seawolf into the mud that way.

[HvyCGN9]

Having spent about 6 hrs reading the different Skipjack builds to see how people have ballasted the sub, I decided to balance the SD first adding some lead in the battery compartment. I had an idea today while driving around for work... I can attach these wts to the outside of the SD (giving more volume)in the same location or on the lower hull. With the supplied foam and weights the sub sits nice and level once hull floods, I need to sit down and adjust the endpoint on rudder and reset the stern planes (and reverse the pitch servo as the ADF2 is commanding a dive when bow is angled down! oops!!)

Need to adjust trim on ballast servo as she has a slow leak once the SAS pump is switched off....starts going back down!


When ballast tank is flooded it only sinks to a level just above the sail planes, do I need to add more wt?(and goes down stern first) In the cabal report "Trimming a wet hull sub" at the start You say you will be doing a report on ballasting with the Weight and foam kit? Did that ever get written? It would be mighty handy for us first timers!

Cheers Bruce

Bruce

[HvyCGN9]

Finished assembling the SD, still need to make the linkage for the sailplanes. Got the zero bubble set on the ADf2 but still need to set the failsafe, But was able to do a test of the SD in the test tank last night. First by itself then in the hull....good news no leaks, the BAD NEWS massive stutter in the ESC (Viper20) when any throttle is applied (Fwd or Rev) this causes the Adf2 and ballast servo to have a cow. Gave up for the night and watched TORA TORA TORA... (ANZAC day was on 25th lots of WWII movies on). Just changed ESC's for a Viper 15 out of my Salvage tug...But NO joy same problem!

Any Ideas....

Cheers Bruce

pre testing

In the test tank....bath tub is just big enough...!!

after test inspection

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thx mate!

I have spent the afternoon wiring up the main power cables, installed servo's last night....just need to get some fresh double sided tape tomorrow (old stuff ain't sticky on one side....not much use!).

Cheers Bruce

To insure a good stick with the servo tape: scrub the contact surfaces with an abrasive pad soaked in lacquer thinner and wipe dry. The two-sided servo tape will now grab like gang-busters.

M

[HvyCGN9]

Thx mate!

I have spent the afternoon wiring up the main power cables, installed servo's last night....just need to get some fresh double sided tape tomorrow (old stuff ain't sticky on one side....not much use!).

Cheers Bruce

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No not the switch hole the smaller hole in the center next to the switch hole its about 1/4 inch dia??

Bruce

An artifact from the production process. Plug it.

M

[HvyCGN9]

Bruce,
The hole is for the waterproof, booted, toggle switch, I think.
Peace,
tom

No not the switch hole the smaller hole in the center next to the switch hole its about 1/4 inch dia??

Bruce

[trout]

Bruce,
The hole is for the waterproof, booted, toggle switch, I think.
Peace,
tom

[HvyCGN9]

have begun assembly of the SD.... I was wondering if there is supposed to be a renshape plug for the hole in the center of the battery end cap? If not what is recommended for the hole?

Cheers Bruce

[HvyCGN9]

Looking good, Mate!!
Great stuff here!

BTW: Any pix of your "nukie" cruiser anywhere?? Would like to see her!

Have a good one!

CG

Pix of my cruisers can be seen in the Targets section of the forum....scroll down forum page!! There is also a couple of videos on youtube just look up TF72 Adelaide I think..

Bruce

[HvyCGN9]

Access for the Allen wrench should you wish to retro-fit a gas type ballast sub-system.

M

Thx mate!! It had me baffled as to its purpose!!

Cheers Bruce

[crazygary]

Looking good, Mate!!
Great stuff here!

BTW: Any pix of your "nukie" cruiser anywhere?? Would like to see her!

Have a good one!

CG

[trout]

Yes. That is a hole for your tool to get to a set screw I believe.

(David beat me to the punch)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Access for the Allen wrench should you wish to retro-fit a gas type ballast sub-system.

M