Skipjack 1/72

[greenman407]

Ok, after establishing a good radial line with our level, out comes the new razor saw. I took my time and I had no problems. Then it was on to assembling the forward hull reinforcement assembly. Just a word of note. Dave went to all the trouble to not only drill the holes to hold it together, He also tapped in the threads. What a trooper! He did the same thing for the velcro hold down bracket. Thanks for that. Good lookin out.
You can put the reinforcement assm. in place easily but pay careful attention to get it lined up with the same amount of space on each side, measured down from the hull lip. Mark it and pull it out and apply thick CA and put it in place. Its a good idea to mark the contact points on the hull so you know where the CA is going to go so that you can sand those areas a little bit for good adhesion. Oh....and you might want to test fit the forward lower piece onto the forward upper with the reinforcement assm. in place and check the fit before you CA it.

[greenman407]

Im sure I could, but whatever I use I would have to go and buy, cus I dont have anything. Just looking into possibilities.

[MFR1964]

Dam mit, my archoid dubble puls inverter has broken down, again no carbonation today, have to call the supplier.

Mark, why don't you use simple styrene and filler?, or are the shapes such that you need other materials.


Manfred.

[greenman407]

Additional research reveals that there is a Ren seamless modeling paste used to mix and pour Renshape like material. Probably $700 a quart

[greenman407]

After doing a little research it appears that renshape is purchased in solid form and you cut out of it what you want. It says that it CAs and epoxys well. Dave , is that what the fittings kits green pieces are from?

[MFR1964]

Oh But Manfred doesnt have a Skipjack, hes got one of those High Falutin Type 23s. Hes also trying to reinvent the wheel, Im just plodding along, going the speed limit or just a tad over, mind you. (fertig zum unterwasser):biggrin:

Nope, no Skipjack, burpppp, sorry, i can't control that, it's in the name.

Recharching the lightning generator, buffed up my new angelwing anodes, ready to fire in seconds, may you receive this well my friend.


Manfred.

[greenman407]

Dave, in times past I have heard you mention a product called "Renshape" I think. Im toying around adding additional details to the Skipjack(sensors and other such paraphernalia). I typed it in to the British Tools/Caswell website and it returned no results. Is it a two part epoxy like material or is it a piece that you cut what you want out of it? Is it expensive? Thanks

[greenman407]

Oh But Manfred doesnt have a Skipjack, hes got one of those High Falutin Type 23s. Hes also trying to reinvent the wheel, Im just plodding along, going the speed limit or just a tad over, mind you. (fertig zum unterwasser):biggrin:

[Peter W]

Mark,

I have got one of those laser level things has been used many times, great bit of kit. Hurry though Manfred has got his wet.

Peter

[greenman407]

A wrap around could have been used to mark the hull, If the hull was the same diameter all the way. But since it tapers, itll throw you way off!

[greenman407]

The good thing about this level is that its pretty inexpensive, about $100. Also, its self leveling, just make sure that your table is level. Mine was not so I used a couple of quarters under two of the legs to get it level.

[greenman407]

Here we are. The aforementioned BooBoo can be addressed when its time to paint and otherwise make it pretty, operational considerations first ya know. Moving right along in our instructions, the next step is to dissect our hulls by cutting off the back cone of the upper section and the same with the front section of the bottom hull. The Classic "Z" cut. Ive used this cut on both the Oscar and the Albacore. The only way to fly. Not really a big deal, except I didnt care for the line I had established for the cuts. So I decided to cheat. Out came the company laser level.
Here you can see were back on the table that I used to glue the bottom halves together. Using the previously established centerline , I marked where the cut area would touch the table and using a framing square, marked out a 90 degree long line. Putting the hull down on the centerline I then set up the level to shine a red laser line to line up with my 90 degree line.. Then using a fine tip pencil I made marks on the hull. Then moving the level to the other side and carefully lining up on my 90 degree line, I marked the other side as well. I will do the same with the front piece. I bought a brand new Razor saw blade as the last one got dulled cutting GRP on the Oscar.

[greenman407]

AND JUST LET THAT BE A LESSON TO YA..........HMPH!!! Its not so bad, As my Dad always used to say...."Ive had worse places in my Eye Before".

[greenman407]

DANGER WILL ROBINSON............DANGER!!! In Daves instructions, he mentioned about putting Wax paper on both sides of the joint to keep the glue from going where it ought not. AND WOULD I LISTEN?.........NO, I only put the paper on the forward side because it was easier. Guess what happened? You got it. Some thin cohesive wicked into the cool little channels on the bottom hull that mate with the top. For about 2" on both sides. Kinda disappointing but Ill slip my Dremel diamond wheel blade on the lower side of the joint and open it up. That way ill only have one side of the joint to mend with Evercoat. BE WARNED!BLUSHER

[greenman407]

Using 1" x 8" spruce, I made this stand for the sub. No more rolling around on top of the work bench. I lined the radial supports surfaces with stick on rubber weatherstrip.