Skipjack 1/72

[Subculture]

A worthwhile investment. Balance charging lipos is not an option IMO.

[greenman407]

I hooked up my new LIPO to the 3.5 Subdriver and I noticed that the LIPO Guard only had 2 lights lit up, telling me that my Lipo had a dead cell in it. So I plugged in my trusty cell checker and my cell count was 1.56/4.45/4.48. The charger that I charged it with is not a balancing charger. This proved to me that a Peak charger will shut off, telling you that everything is fine....when it isnt. So I decided that now is the time to invest in a Balancing Charger. Might as well get a dual output. Once I drain down this battery, the Peak Balancing charger should bring all three cells up at together. So I picked this one up at my local Hobby shop. You can get the same thing for the same price at Tower Hobbies. Its been my experience that Tower is not any cheaper than my Hobby Store here in St. Petersburg, its just that they have a big inventory or direct link to Manfgs. who will drop ship to you. Let me save you some time. The little cell checker also says that it will equalize cells. Thats only the partial truth. It will probably take 24 to 36 hrs. to equalize a decent 3 cell Lipo. It doesnt bring the low cell up, it slowly discharges the high cells. Then you need to charge it again, and then you see that the balance is off again. Thats why you need a balancing charger so you dont have to fool around going backwards. Its good though, for checking cell levels.

[greenman407]

Nope, the same old tried and true Fuji Finepix S700 with microzoom.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Excellent close-up photography, Mark! New camera?

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Excellent close-up photography, Mark! New camera?

M

[greenman407]

When hooking up all the Gizmos dont forget that, because we are using an additional BEC, we need to disable the BEC built into the Speed Control. Take the plug from the Speed Control that plugs into the receiver and remove the red wire, the one in the middle. Take a small sharp pointy thing and lift the tab(see picture). Then remove the wire and tape it back to the wire with something. Its said that having two BECs going at the same time can cause interference.

[greenman407]

Not to change the subject but I was thinking.(actually I already thunked it before). The Klikon magnetic pushrod joining devices. Great Idea. I have never used them because I was afraid that they might come loose. I plan to strengthen the magnetic attraction forces by "Double Teaming". Just epoxy or CA two additional ones on for double the force. "May The Force Be With You...........young Padawan."

[greenman407]

Using A Deans plug to be able to disconnect the Motor bulkhead from the rest of the Subdriver for ease of maintenance. Also one up front at the water proof switch. I gave up the Tamiya plugs years ago as being unreliable. After the connection is made to the Motor Bulkhead, the extra wire is pulled up into the front compartment and stored there with the Battery.

[greenman407]

After reading, again, the info provided on the SAS, it seems clear now why the LPB and the gas emergency system should be operated from the same channel, a spring loaded joystick. Its all together on one control and you wont accidentally leave the LPB running and forget to turn it off. Youd be venting and Blowing at the same time. Not good.

[greenman407]

OK, Can do.

[alad61]

Thank you Dan, that was helpful! Very helpful.
David likes to say "it is not rocket science" and I am learning how in so many ways that is true, but antenna dynamics seems to go beyond rocket science it goes into the realm of magic and pixie dust to me.
Alec, I hope my question did not come across as questioning you or your abilitities. It is not. I respect your skills and knowledge immensely. It is me just trying to sort out the little knowledge I have.

No worries Tom and no offence taken. As I tell my staff if in doubt ask a question, I know I do... A lot :biggrin:

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

When you set the fail-safe side of the ADF2, you set it with the transmitter 'blow' stick/switch at 120%. After setting up the fail-safe, you then return the transmitters end-point back to 100%. When actuated via fail-safe operation the ballast sub-system servo will travel 120% to the 'blow' position. However, as you operate the ballast sub-system via the transmitter, a normal 'blow' will be 100% travel -- and no engagement of the emergency gas will happen.

Aboard the SD, you dial-in the ballast sub-system linkage so that you get a normal blow, without blow-valve engagement, at the 100% 'blow' position, However the blow valve will be engaged when the linkage arm goes to the 120% 'blow' position.

So, you will get an emergency blow (gas) only when the sub-system goes to fail-safe or you command a blow from the transmitter and add full trim to that stick.

The entire SAS ballast sub-system is operated from one channel.

You people!

M

[greenman407]

If not I guess I need to order a Y lead.

[greenman407]

Dave, if your going to send the back up ballast system, then why cant I leave the LPB on the toggle switch and the Back up emergency ballast system can then go in the traditional location on the stick opposite the direction of the vent? Whadaya think? Just exploring all my options to increase my entertainment without giving you a headache.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Your transmitter assignments is non-traditional -- but you're likely a left-hander too, so I won't ***** at you on that matter.

However, you want both the LPB and ballast sub-system servo (vent) working off a Y-lead that plugs into the fail-safe portion of the ADF2.

Neutral and the LPB does not run and the vent is closed. Stick/switch in the 'blow' position and the LPB motor runs and the vent remains shut (servo moves, but linkage arm elasticity prevents servo stall). Stick/switch in the 'vent' position and the LPB motor does not run and the vent opens.

http://support.caswellplating.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/363/23/the-sas-system---how-it-works

third page.

David