Skipjack 1/72

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ha!......................................

[greenman407]

Without naming any names(dave), I think someones getting Impatient with me. I cant do anything else to the Sub-Driver until I get my new LIPO. The other one is fried. I have been working on the sail. So There!watch

[greenman407]

To keep important wires from chafing and possibly shorting out against the Aluminum servo and appliance mounting trays I have CAed sheet plastic in several areas where wires will come in contact with those trays, as you can see here in the first picture. In the second , this is how I plumbed the CAN BUSS connections for the SAS pump, LIPO Guard and BEC. I attached them directly to the Deans plug terminals, via an intermediate connection wire, so that its not too busy at the plug. Spread it out a little bit, Ya Know? Maybe its neater than another alternative. The deans plug that connects to this one , of course, runs up into the forward Battery compartment. In order to have easy access, the wire is made long enough to allow easy access to the plug connection and to get the equipment tray out where you can work on it. After the connections are made you just pull the extra wire up into the battery compartment before sealing up that end. Plenty of room up there.

[greenman407]

Well shes working today. Must be the new connectors. Ill unplug and plug them in a bunch of times to make sure Ive got a good connection and wiggle a bunch of wires around. The red light on the LIPO guard is on. according to the instructions for it the red light is supposed to go out and the first and last green will come on, showing shutdown due to low voltage. I was wrong.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No, the 'angle-keeper' and 'fail-safe' circuites will not drop out together if the signal is blocked by the Lipo-Guard (providing that the Lipo-Guard is only feeding one of the two ADF2 circuits).

Sure, your fail-safe will go off at low battery voltage, but you should still be able to drive the stern planes from the transmitter.

I don't think your transmitter went sour, Mark. Break out a spare receiver, receiver battery, and four servos and check the transmitter.

I bet you got a wiring/device problem somewhere in that SD of yours.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No, the 'angle-keeper' and 'fail-safe' circuites will not drop out together if the signal is blocked by the Lipo-Guard (providing that the Lipo-Guard is only feeding one of the two ADF2 circuits).

Sure, your fail-safe will go off at low battery voltage, but you should still be able to drive the stern planes from the transmitter.

I don't think your transmitter went sour, Mark. Break out a spare receiver, receiver battery, and four servos and check the transmitter.

I bet you got a wiring/device problem somewhere in that SD of yours.

M

[greenman407]

Well, I was reversing the servo direction for channel four and then saved it. At that point I lost the ballast control and the rear planes servo. I think that the LIPO guard is doing what the instructions say that its supposed to do,"Block the receivers ballast signal from being transmitted to the ADF." Since the rear planes is connected in this same circuit, then perhaps thats why that channel doesn't work. However if you move the subdriver around that servo will move as the ADF detects an out of level condition and tries to correct. I haven't plugged it in today to see what happens. At any rate I have ordered another LIPO. Itll be here in a few days and there is other stuff to do on it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

LOL. OK, I've had my fun, Mark. To business:

Maybe you forgot to punch 'menue' twice to save your settings? But, I'm at a loss to understand how you lost functions at the sticks and switches -- were you in the stick/switch assignment portion of the set-up?

Our best guy here for this kind of thing is Kevin.

Kevin .... Help!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

LOL. OK, I've had my fun, Mark. To business:

Maybe you forgot to punch 'menue' twice to save your settings? But, I'm at a loss to understand how you lost functions at the sticks and switches -- were you in the stick/switch assignment portion of the set-up?

Our best guy here for this kind of thing is Kevin.

Kevin .... Help!

M

[greenman407]

Yeah.......well........actually I was hoping to incite the masses to share there similar experiences............or am I the only one whos had such a debilitating, emotionally traumatizing situation?(quietly sobbing.....snif.....snif)

[Slats]

... maybe you want me to sing you the Happy-Kitty song?

You Puss!

M

That I'd pay money for! In fact Mike, you could sell tickets for it, which should of course include complementary sick bags

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

... maybe you want me to sing you the Happy-Kitty song?

You Puss!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

... maybe you want me to sing you the Happy-Kitty song?

You Puss!

M

[greenman407]

OK, so Im setting this thing up using the radio , typing in the model name and setting freq. and servo reversing........and all of the sudden.....ch.2 stops working and ch.4 stops working..........but ch.1 is fine, ch. 3 is fine and the drive motor turns but Ive lost some channels. OH....I must have messed something up when I was programming the radio......But what??????
OOOPPP, I turned the subdriver over and the LIPO guard has got a RED light on it. Blankety Blank thing is shutting me down. ITs that bad LIPO. So I ordered another one but this time I know how to better care for it. I got a 6400MaH this time.
DAGNABIT and DADBLAMITALL!!!!Very Angry

[greenman407]

Thanks Guys. Since water ingress is always a possibility in a submarine, Im on the lookout. I noticed that the SAS pump is really close to the bottom of the Subdriver. It will therefore get wet if any amount of water above a tablespoon gets in there. Since the most fragile component of the motor is the printed circuit control board soldered to it with its various electronic components attached, Im going to spray it down with this stuff. National Chemsearch Clear Guard. Its made to seal water out of such devices. Another thing Im going to do is what I have done for years is put a small sponge in the bottom. As far as water droplets getting past the safety valve, Im not too worried about it since the closest component to it is the waterproof speed control. But just for "reasons of good form" Ill put a hose out of it to drip into the bottom area.