My Seaview Build

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

This stuff:

From Clippard,

Part Number: URT1-0503-GYS-050
Urethane Tubing
5/32" O.D. & 3/32" I.D.
Solid Gray
50 Feet

Tubing ID: 0.093 Inches
Tubing OD: 0.157 Inches
Tubing Radius Bend: 0.279 Inches
Tubing Burst Pressure: Approximately 600 psig at 75°F
Tubing Max PSI: 0 to 105 psig at 100°F
Tubing Durometer: 95
Tubing Max Temperature: 120°F
Note: Designed for use with push-in fittings
List Price: $ 8.43 Dollars per unit
EXCLUDES FREIGHT, TAXES AND DUTIES (IF APPLICABLE)
Quantity:
Extended Price: $ 8.43

[ADDINGTON]

Quickest source for me was Ace Hardware. Ask for "fuel line" tubing, which has a pinkish tint and fits perfectly. I would imagine most auto parts stores would carry fuel line tubing also.
-Kerry

[mickelsen]

My next question is about the LPB. I bought parts for that as they became available before there was a kit for it. I bought the small pumps as soon as they were available and then Kevin's MPC's. But the flexible hose has never been available separately that I know of. Can I get that from Caswell? If not, can you tell me, is it 1/16" polyurethane tubing, or something else? I guess it would be available through the Clippard catalog, but I need to know what to order.
Thanks again.

[Kazzer]

Try this file for radio setup instructions

[mickelsen]

You newbies are a real pain in the butt...

Thanks, David. I really do appreciate the help! As for being a pain in your butt...well, it's a dirty job, but SOMEBODY'S got to do it. Unfortunately, I'm sure that I'll have more PITA questions in the future.

7 and 8 - LPB/torpedo launch/bow plane retract/masts/scuttling charge/doomsday device activation/presidential recall/pizza delivery auto-dial/whatever

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

My next question is a real newbie question.
What channel of the receiver do you usually put each function of the submarine on, and are some functions combined on a single channel? I have a Tracker III transmitter, if that makes a difference. I have a Seeker II 6 channel receiver for one sub and a Sombra Labs SL-8 8 channel receiver for another.
Another question; is the Sombra shadow programmer required in order to set up the SL-8?

You newbies are a real pain in the butt. But, Mr. Caswell say's I have to be nice to you. So, here goes ...

As to the 'accepted' (my way) channel assignments, they go like this:

1 - rudder
2 - bow plane/sail plane
3 - throttle
4 - gas ballast sub-system
5 - bow plane retract/LPB/torpedo launch
6 - stern plane
7 and 8 - LPB/torpedo launch/bow plane retract/masts/scuttling charge/doomsday device activation/presidential recall/pizza delivery auto-dial/whatever

With the Caswell/McLeod LPB switches you can combine the gas and the LPB on one channel with a 'Y' connector. Doing so would free up channel-5 for other service.

The above channel assignments are good for boats that have all the bells and whistles. For smaller boats, using only four channels:

1 - rudder
2 - stern planes
3 - throttle
4 - ballast sub-system

Tracker-3 is an excellent r/c system .... If you can figure out that walking-talking paradox of an 'instruction' book they expect you to understand. Pop a sugar-cube before reading that gobble-dee-gook!

The seeker and Sombra receivers are rock-solid, small, flexible receivers -- good stuff. And you don't need the Sombra programmer; we're not flying FAI here, pal!

David,

[mickelsen]

My next question is a real newbie question.
What channel of the receiver do you usually put each function of the submarine on, and are some functions combined on a single channel? I have a Tracker III transmitter, if that makes a difference. I have a Seeker II 6 channel receiver for one sub and a Sombra Labs SL-8 8 channel receiver for another.
Another question; is the Sombra shadow programmer required in order to set up the SL-8?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Okay, guys, here's my next question for you expert Seaview builders.

Once I've mounted the pump jets in the propulsion tubes, installed the dive planes, and filled the notches that I cut in order to drill the holes for the dive plane shaft, the pump jets and dive planes will be permanently sealed in place. There will be no way to remove them for maintenance or repair without cutting into the plastic to remove the dive plane shaft again.

I don't like things that are permanently sealed in place, especially things like the pump jets.

Has anyone come up with a way to install these things so that they can be removed without cutting the plastic again?

Merriman said that he doesn't like equipment that isn't accessable or maintainable. I wonder if he has a better way.

I'll be very interested to hear how you guys have done it.

Thanks.

To take things apart all you have to do is remove the rudders, dig out the filler over the ends of the stern plane operating shafts, unscrew the set-screw that holds the bell-crank to the operating shaft, and slide the operating shaft out. That frees up the stern planes and bell crank for removal.

The pump jets were put in there with RTV adhesive .... right?!!

Fine. If not, you're screwed, pal!

If RTV'ed in place then all you have to do is unscrew the rotor set-screw (you did line up the set-screw access hole in the PJ duct so you could access the hole from within the hull, right?) and remove the rotor and rotor shaft. Then, with a stick pushing from inside and against the shaft bearing, push the PJ duct aft till it's clear of the propulsion tube.

Slicker than snot!

After repair you have to re-contour the dig-outs where you got access to the ends of the stern plane operating shafts and do some touch-up painting.

David,

[mickelsen]

Okay, guys, here's my next question for you expert Seaview builders.

Once I've mounted the pump jets in the propulsion tubes, installed the dive planes, and filled the notches that I cut in order to drill the holes for the dive plane shaft, the pump jets and dive planes will be permanently sealed in place. There will be no way to remove them for maintenance or repair without cutting into the plastic to remove the dive plane shaft again.

I don't like things that are permanently sealed in place, especially things like the pump jets.

Has anyone come up with a way to install these things so that they can be removed without cutting the plastic again?

Merriman said that he doesn't like equipment that isn't accessable or maintainable. I wonder if he has a better way.

I'll be very interested to hear how you guys have done it.

Thanks.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks, David.
I should have also included this; what is the minimum voltage required for everything to run well?

There are more and more kinds of batteries out there and I'm just starting to learn about the newer types :confused:. Is there a site or sites where I can go to educate myself?

Thanks again.

Today's assigned reading lesson:

http://support.radioshack.com/support_tutorials/batteries/bt-liion-main.htm

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks, David.
I should have also included this; what is the minimum voltage required for everything to run well?

There are more and more kinds of batteries out there and I'm just starting to learn about the newer types :confused:. Is there a site or sites where I can go to educate myself?

Thanks again.

4.5-volts. Go with Lithium-polymer. Only two flavors for what we do: 7.4 and 11.1-volt. If ever you let one of those drain down to 4.5-volts, it's a gonner!

David,

[junglelord]

Thats hilarious, oh man, you crack me up David...thanks for the belly laugh. Also good to know specs on the Seaview. Your quite gifted. Its great to listen to your rants and your insights. I grow weary waiting for my fittings kit but patience is a virture. Ebay confirmation 6-8 day wait time sucks.
That Stinks

For some reason their system cannot make a withdrawel on the spot.
Thumbs Down

[mickelsen]

Thanks, David.
I should have also included this; what is the minimum voltage required for everything to run well?

There are more and more kinds of batteries out there and I'm just starting to learn about the newer types :confused:. Is there a site or sites where I can go to educate myself?

Thanks again.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Does anyone have an idea of how many amps a fully loaded Seaview SD draws on average? And also maxed out? I don't have enough stuff running yet to do any tests, and I think we have some better EE's than me out there anyway.
Thanks.

About 2 Ampere's at a 2/3 bell (all devices in the loop and the ADF wiggling the stern plane servo). The motors draw about 5 Ampere's stalled -- worst case: 12 Ampere's and a minute or so later a melt-down. Jane Fonda, call your office!

The ESC we provide can take the overload, the motors can't -- they'll burn, and the heat within the cylinder will pop the forward bulkhead/cap.

Bad news: cylinders flooded.

Good new: fire's out.

Break out the flippers and mask.

David,

[mickelsen]

Power draw of the Seaview SD

Does anyone have an idea of how many amps a fully loaded Seaview SD draws on average? And also maxed out? I don't have enough stuff running yet to do any tests, and I think we have some better EE's than me out there anyway.
Thanks.