1/72 OTW Trenchant with 3.5" Subdriver

[Nuke Power]

They can be usefull for people making your fav rcab system. Also good since you never add a space to put a sport pack battery. Laot of people would like the battery and everything in ne whole unit without having to use lipo.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ok more tank testing and some photos too.

Here you can see Trenchant in the wet stuff. I drilled the upper deck with some more openings and still needed to add a tad more weight. I do run my boats slightly positive as I run in a lake where visibility in some areas is patch at best.

That said she is too positive still.

The subdriver photos show here that I use a 3.5" single screw subdriver and have connected forward of the ballast tank a 3" enclosure for the 7.2 v battery.

David / Mike, what would it cost to have a connecting end cap like the two I have connected between the battery compartment 3" and the BT 3.5"?
I used some threaded brass rod to join the end caps and glued them together. I added a battery tray to the 3" battery compartment.

This is a very nice boat and I do like the colour scheme - it will be good for 4 eyes here to see it too in this pattern. I have added some weathering - scum line and removed some tiles too.

All up I like it.

Best

John

Let me get this straight, John: you're looking for a 3.5/3 union coupler? If so, we don't make 'em yet, but a good idea. I could develop that for you: make the masters, tools, and parts. But, only if we (Caswell/D&E) can be assured sales of additional units to other customers; is there a market for this interface piece.

Mike: might be a worthwhile product. Want me to do it, or do we just sell John the two separate bulkheads and let him do the grunt work of attaching them?

David,

[Slats]

here is some more photos

[Slats]

sorry helps if I add the photos....

[Slats]

Ok more tank testing and some photos too.

Here you can see Trenchant in the wet stuff. I drilled the upper deck with some more openings and still needed to add a tad more weight. I do run my boats slightly positive as I run in a lake where visibility in some areas is patch at best.

That said she is too positive still.

The subdriver photos show here that I use a 3.5" single screw subdriver and have connected forward of the ballast tank a 3" enclosure for the 7.2 v battery.

David / Mike, what would it cost to have a connecting end cap like the two I have connected between the battery compartment 3" and the BT 3.5"?
I used some threaded brass rod to join the end caps and glued them together. I added a battery tray to the 3" battery compartment.

This is a very nice boat and I do like the colour scheme - it will be good for 4 eyes here to see it too in this pattern. I have added some weathering - scum line and removed some tiles too.

All up I like it.

Best

John

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

yes i prefer silicone aswell. KY is soluable and will dissolve once you submerge.

... don't make me stop this car!

David,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Kevin, David, thanks guys,

my holes were trying to keep with scale fidelity and I did notice the bubble seemed to span the hole diameter I had. I'll add some 1/8" ones and make the minimum size that size. I'll then re-test / trim her.

Re the grease would vaseline be ok?

Best

John

Yup, the Vaseline will work just fine.

David,

[Nuke Power]

yes i prefer silicone aswell. KY is soluable and will dissolve once you submerge.

[toppack]

I don't know what Sailors prefer :D
but I like Silicone-grease.

[Nuke Power]

Vasoline... what ever you like sailor :)

[Slats]

Kevin, David, thanks guys,

my holes were trying to keep with scale fidelity and I did notice the bubble seemed to span the hole diameter I had. I'll add some 1/8" ones and make the minimum size that size. I'll then re-test / trim her.

Re the grease would vaseline be ok?

Best

John

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

holes are the only way sometimes. I have had to make non scale holes just to get my boats to drive right. It came down to, is it gonna look super pretty in its stand or is it gonna work how I want in the water.

Kevin's right -- sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and punch those holes into the deck. Here are some hard-and-fast rules to insure you get those bubbles out:

1. Make the vent holes at least 1/8" in diameter (too small and surface tension between the bubble and water will be strong enough to prevent escape of the air)

2. Bevel under the hole to minimize the thickness of the holes bore

3. And grease the underside of the deck to keep bubbles from clinging to the underside of the deck (the grease reduces the air-bubbles ability to 'stick' to the underside of the deck).

David,

[Nuke Power]

holes are the only way sometimes. I have had to make non scale holes just to get my boats to drive right. It came down to, is it gonna look super pretty in its stand or is it gonna work how I want in the water.

[Slats]

On thing I did notice is Trechant's relatively flat deck and lack of top side vents is a problem.

I am getting an air bubble stuck underneath the deck. I have tried drilling small holes that would be for the safety rail uprights (used when the boat is in port), but is there another way to alleviate this?

John

[Slats]

I have not yet left any other site I post too.
If you must know guys - the censorship that annoys me most is not swear words, but the deliberate silencing and removal of references to David's excellent products and the inhibiting of me supplying others with links on that site to those products should others ask questions of those products. Yes I support decency and politeness but I will never understand or support the censorship that the site in question has, which is in fact blatant discrimination, albeit in a passive way. I am not involved in any way with any agenda other than my own. I am aghast at such fear in some who inhabit what I believe is one of the greatest models of democracy the USA.

I have been in the sub and target RC game, along time - before the net existed. I do like forums for furthering the hobby, my enjoyment, scholarship, and helping others do the same, but I will survive if pushed out of one.

Hope that clears the air - so lets get this post back about my HMS Trenchant and its sub driver.

I did some re ballasting in my test tank and not surprisingly using David's method of filling the propel bottle (see post on this), the sub was heavier. I clearly had a full propel charge which weighs more.

I also fully inspected the boat as she went negative by removing the top section - this was good to inspect that the boat had indeed fully flooded the tank. NB, Davids advice:
On the surface the tanks is empty
Dived the tank is to be full not half FULL

Suffice to say I am affixing a little more foam.
Photos on this coming soon.

best
John