Revell Gato 1/72 - Newbie no more Part duex

[trout]

Tomorrow I order a new battery. Today, I play with the conning tower and install a floor.
I opened up the deck inside the conning tower to allow air out and it will slightly lighten the above water weight.

With the conning tower being open underneath

and the doors cut out, I did not like how I could see the light coming in from below the deck. At certain angles it is fine it looks satisfactorily dark.

So, I built a quick floor from styrene, I traced the outside of the ridge on the deck meant to hold the conning tower. Transferred the pattern to some sheet styrene and did some scribing of lines (not for scale, but effect). Then shot it with a quick coat of black paint.

Putting the conning tower over it, I got the look I was going for. The only light coming in or showing up was from the light coming in from the other door.

Wait, that is not the end of the story. Once I placed the new deck in, I then realized that the ridge built for the conning tower is really high and with the door cut out it stands higher than the threshold. Add a deck and now you are obnoxiously obvious.

So, the only solution that came to mind is cut out the raised ridge and have the floor in the conning tower for strength.
Marked area needing to cut out and verified the placement on the conning tower.

Using the deep throat jewelers saw and the wax blade (twisted blade that can cut in any direction) the area marked for removal was excavated.

Checked fit with deck. Added some small pieces of styrene as tabs or stops for the deck so it would set at the right depth. placed deck in and used cohesive glue to attach deck to tabs and conning tower. Once set, filled edges with CA and baking powder.

Now the deck sets lower and is less obnoxious.

[trout]

Mike, you can pay your employees because of my major purchase of a battery! LOL So, in a week, I will hopefully see what else may or may not work with the new LiPo.

[Scott T]

Good job on the deck and door mods.

[trout]

Thank you Scott!

[trout]

I saw on another post someone asked "How much weight was added to trim the Revell Gato that is using D&E WTC?" The poster was understanding that there are differences, but wanted a ballpark. I am asking here because I want to know - I am almost there (waiting for battery). So ballpark - knowing there are many variables, how much lead should I have on hand to trim my Gato?

[trout]

O.K. no help on the amount of ballast needed.......is it written somewhere and I missed it?
Please point me in the right direction for any of this.
Looking for tips and suggestions.
What is the best way to attach my antenna to the end cap?
Do I just cut the receiver's antenna then strip the end and fasten that to the nut to the external antenna? That seems to be asking for trouble every time I take the end cap off. The continual movement would fatigue the antenna, yes?
I am worried about cutting my antenna!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Your receiver is an integral part of the motor-bulkhead device foundation -- once installed it, and its antenna will experience no relative motion as you install/remove the motor bulkhead. Cut the receiver antenna short enough to reach the stud, strip, and make it up to the stud with the provided washers and nut. No big deal.

David

[trout]

I get it. Since the receiver (although not really attached) is not going to move.
o.k. How much weight did you put in your gato?
David, thank you for your help.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'll have to break out my GATO (got to anyway, there's a pool-run this Sunday), examine what I got in there in the way of lead and give you an estimate. Stay tuned.

David

[trout]

Drugged or not, you are the MAN!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

of course I am!

[alad61]

I have been reading and re-reading this thread many times now and I have to say Trout I and impressed beyond words at your build here. I am tossing up between the Gato and the upcoming Skipjack for my next project but this is certainly a persuasive argument to the Gato. Though it does appear more challenging than the Seaview it still appears to be a great kit to do...

[trout]

Alec,
Thank you. Being this is my first sub, I will say it is a challenge, but one sweet looking submarine. I will be getting the Skipjack when it comes out. So, if you are building your first sub..... you will need to decide your stamina level on building. I would think the Skipjack is easier and David may want to jump in here, but the Gato is a real good sub to get stretched and learn new things!
It thrills me and blesses me that you have enjoyed reading me hack my way through this build. If it inspires you to jump in and build, then my joy is doubled. Plus it means more of us at the shoreline and building this hobby up.
Please let me know what you decide to do and keep in touch!
Peace,
Tom

[alad61]

I am seriously stuck on the fence between the gato or skipjack... both are fairly iconic to me. I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures or video of your first sea trials with the gato. As for a first sub the Seaview is cutting my teeth and I agree that the gato would offer more from a modeling perspective but as for for the skipjack being easier my experiance has shown me that an easy model doesn't mean an easy build:o:)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Not build .... ASSEMBLE!

It's a kit, damit. Not a scratch-build. The 'building' was/is being done by a machine, not you or anyone else who rips the clear wrapper off a box-of-parts!

With a kit -- which is what we're talking about here -- we are simple, common, mouth-breathing, moronic kit-assemblers. We are humble Assembly Drones ... not model-builders!

As to the complexity of the SKIPJACK kit: I can assure you, the SKIPJACK will be a much easier assembly job than the GATO.

As a tease, here are some shots of a 1/72 GRP kit I assembled better than a decade ago from a Scale Shipyard kit:

David